Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Discovering Gyeongsangbuk-do - Bonghwa-gun

I just love to go to the homepage of the different counties. They each have their own identities created uniquely in their own special styles. But what I love best are the little symbols that are representative of the respective counties – the county flag, the county mascot, the county flower, the county tree and the county bird.


Bonghwa  Mountain magpie


Bonghwa Chunyangmok

Bonghwa  Mountain magnolia

Mascot Bonghwa

Bonghwa where we are going next has chosen the Mountain magpie as the County bird. The magpie symbolizes a good omen, and displays the progressive spirit and possibilities of the county’s residents. The County tree is the Chunyangmok, a pine tree that stands solid and straight in spite of its long life, and symbolizes the powerful spirit and patience of the county residents. Whereas the County flower is the Mountain magnolia which is widely found in the whole county blooming from May – August. The flower is white symbolizing innocence and the good nature of the county residents.

How thoughtful of them, the home page has listed the different types of accommodation that is available in Bonghwa including a description of the different kinds of Korean food. I wish all the other counties could do that too especially the description of the local cuisine. It would be a great help in that we won’t order the wrong type of food and thus no wastage.

Name of accommodation

Location

TEL

Room capacity

Gungjeon Motel

Naeseong-ri, Bonghwa-eup

674-0300

37

Dadeok Park Motel

Ugok-ri, Bongseong-myeon

674-0033

33

Myeongsan Park Motel

Goseon-ri, Socheon-myeon

673-9988

42

IF Motel

Uiyang-ri, Chunyang-myeon

673-2800


Nakwonjang Yeogwan(Inn)

Naeseong-ri, Bonghwa-eup

673-2351

23

Shillajang Yeogwan(inn)

Naeseong-ri, Bonghwa-eup

673-2049

21

Ehwajang Yeogwan (inn)

Naeseong-ri, Bonghwa-eup

673-3533

23

Dong-a Yeogwan (inn)

Uiyang-ri, Chunyang-myeon

672-3109

13

Daeheung Yeogwan (inn)

Uiyang-ri, Chunyang-myeon

672-3169

8

Taebaek Yeogwan (Inn)

Uiyang-ri, Chunyang-myeon

672-3164

10

Samgang Yeogwan (inn)

Hyeondong-ri, Socheon-myeon

672-7314

10

Okbang Yeogwan (Inn)

Buncheon-ri, Socheon-myeon

672-7777

12

Seongji Yeogwan (Inn)

Seokpo-ri, Seokpo-myeon

672-6017

5


Homestay

Location

by tourist attractions
(number of home-stay)

TEL

Aedang-ri, Chunyang-myeon

Chamsaegol

672-3919

Ojeon-ri, Mulya-myeon

15 places at around and Ojeon mineral water resort

672-2034

Daehyeon-ri, Seokpo-myeon

8 places around Cheongok Mountain Natural Recreation Forest

672-6704

Socheon-ri, Beopjeon-myeon

Samijeong valley

672-0483

Buncheon-ri, Socheon-myeon

8 places around Gwangbicheon valley

673-1488

Goseon-ri, Socheon-myeon

7 places around Goseon valley (Guma-dong)

672-6821

Docheon-ri, Myeongho-myeon

6 places around Maeho resort

673-1639

Bukgok-ri, Myeongho-myeon

3 places around Cheongryangsan (mountain)

672-1447

Goseon-ri, Socheon-myeon

Guma Hwangtominbak

672-7367

Gwanchang-ri, Myeongho-myeon

Okcheonminbak at Cheongryangsan

673-2654

Seokhyeon-ri, Chunyang-myeon

Hwangtominbak

672-3700

Seokhyeon-ri, Chunyang-myeon

Seungjisanjang Pansion

674-0081


Bonghwa Seonju: A liquor matured with medical herbs such as okapi, pine leaves and cinnamon etc. as well as good rice, Korean barley and clean water from the upper stream of Nakdonggang (river). Traditional home-brewed liquor that the natural taste, fragrance and color are kept.

Bonghwa Mountain Meoruju (wild grapes wine): made by fermenting and maturing wild grapes raised at the edge of Sobaek Mountain, high-level fruit wine that has sweet taste and fragrance as it is. It was appointed to one of the world 100 high quality liquors.

Oksusu Yeotsul (corn liquor): corn liquor made by secret method succeeded in folk town. It has pure taste.

Bonghwa Sansong-I Dolsotbap (pine mushroom rice boiled with vegetables): rice and other crops boiled in beef soup with pine mushroom at the end of the cooking course. Pine mushroom has rich ingredient and great effect on preventing cancer, adult disease and hangover. You can enjoy subtle fragrance of pine mushroom.

Song-I Bulgogi (beef roasted with pine mushroom): mix Korean beef, sources, and vegetables and put it on the hot pan. When it is cooked, put pine mushroom on it.

Song-I Yukhoi (raw beef with pine mushroom): put pine mushroom and pear around a dish, and seasoned raw beef at the center. It is fresh and fragrance without the smell of fat of meat.

Hanyak Yaksu Dakbaeksuk (chicken boiled with herbs and mineral water):
Chicken dish boiled with medical herbs such as milk vetch root, Chinese matrimony vine, Danggwi, and ginseng in mineral water. It stimulates appetite and helps to bear the hot weather in summer.

Bongseong Dwaeji sutbulgui(charcoal-broiled pork): Slice sow meat thick and roast on pine charcoal. It is plain and stringy with pine fragrance. It has abundant vitamin, calcium, and protein. As being roasted on pine charcoal, terpene ingredient is penetrated in it and it is good to prevent adult disease.

Hanyakwu Sutbulgui (charcoal-broiled herbal beef): sirloin and rib are cooked with charcoal. To make Bulgogi, season the meat with a lot of paprika and cook it in a stone bowl. Compared to general Korean beef, it is mild and has no fatty smell because of the high protein content.

Euneo Hobanglipssamgui (roasted sweet fish wrapped with vegetable): put grill on pine charcoal and roast sweetfish to be yellowish. It has less fishy smell and tastes plain.

Euneo Sollipgui (sweetfish roasted with pine leaves): roasted sweetfish with pine leaves on it. Enjoy with sour soy source or mustard source. The pine leaves add sweet fragrance to the dish.

Cheongdungori Hanbangbaeksuk (Mallard duck boiled with medical herbs):
Boil mallard duck stuffed with medical herbs such as antler, ginseng, Danggwi, and gingko nut. After pulling out the duck, boil the soup with rice and glutinous rice to make Juk(porridge).

Bonghwa is mountainous land and the most famous mountain of all to be found in Bonghwa is the Cheongnyang Mountain. Bonghwa with a population of 50,000 is made up of 1 eup and 9 myeons and is “a place of manners with a scholarly spirit and beautiful mountains” so it says on the homepage. It meets Uljin-gun and Youngyang-gun to the east, Youngju-si to the west, Andong-si to the south, and Youngwol-gun/Taebaek-si/Samcheok-si of Gwangwon-do to the north. The northern borderline is where the Sobaeksanmaek (mountains) are separated from the Taebaek Mountainmaek (mountains).

Bonghwa Cheongnyang Mountain Provincial Park

The much celebrated Mount Cheongnyang, well-known for its beauty, is located not far from Andong’s Dosanseodang.

In volume three of his popular cultural travelogue ‘My Exploration of Cultural Heritage,’ Prof. Yu Hong-june, said: "The climax of the Gyeongsangbuk-do course is Mt. Cheongnyangsan but I will not write about it for fear of it becoming too well known."
But despite the efforts of some people to keep the mountain a secret, Cheongnyangsan is no longer a well-kept secret. In 1982 it was designated a provincial park of Gyeongsangbuk-do, known as the Mt. Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park. Fortunately, despite its reputation, not many people visit the mountain. It is in rugged territory, very much off the beaten track and as such is not easily accessible. As a result, Cheongnyangsan is still clean and beautiful.

Going down to Andong on the national road no.35 via Myeongho-myeon, you can get to Mt Cheongnyangsan. Balanced with high rock peaks and strange-shaped rock cliffs, it used to be known as Sogeumgang because of the beautiful scenery. Mt Cheongnyangsan is a noted mountain that stands 870m high. The Nakdonggang river which originates from the Taebaek Mountain flows around it. There is an old site where there used to be 27 temples and monk’s cells in the mountain.

Bonghwa Cheongnyang Mountain Provincial Park 01

In the olden days, Mt. Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park was the place where many famous high priests and scholars resided. At Mt. Cheongnyangsan, the Giam cliff forms 12 peaks and the Nakdonggang River flows through it. On this mountain stands the Cheongnyangsa Temple. Behind the Provincial Park’s boulder is a monument with a poem inscribed on it by the famous scholar Toegye I Hwang of the Joseon Period called Cheongnyangsanga.

The “Cheongnyangsanga or the Song of Mt. Cheongnyang.” When translated goes something like this:-

“The wild white goose and I know the beautiful peaks of Mt.Cheongnyang.

The wild white goose would not deceive me:

However, I can’t believe in the peach flower.

Peach flower; don’t fall in the water,

I worry the fisherman will come to know this place by following the floating flowers.”

So it looks like Prof. Yu Hong-june was not the only person who did not want to share the beauty of this place with others. Even this great Confucian scholar, Toegye I Hwang wanted to enjoy this beautiful place all to himself. When Toegye was planning to build Dosanseodang, a school for the teachings of Confucianism, he had a tough time deciding on whether to build it there at Mt. Cheongnyangsan, or at the alternate spot, where it was eventually built, on a last minute decision.
Besides Toegye I Hwang, Won-Hyo and Ui-Sang, the Buddhist monks, Gim-Saeng, a master of calligraphy, Chi-won Choi, a scholar, many others came to this mountain to cultivate their arts. Their presence still lingers on in legends, being retold to this day.
Osandang is believed to have been built by the disciples of Toegye at the spot where Toegye conferred with literary men, and is one of many relics found here, amongst them the Mt. Cheongnyangsan Castle, which is believed to have been built by King Gongmin of the Goryeo Period, to escape the rebellions from the peasantry.

Bonghwa Cheongnyangsa Temple 02

The Cheongnyangsa Temple is located at the foot of Yeonhwabong Peak, which is in Mt. Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park. It is a 1000-year-old temple founded by the monks Wonhyo and Uisang in the year 663 A.D. It is quite difficult to reach Cheongnyangsa Temple; the path to the summit is very steep.

Cheongnyangsa Temple Wooden planks path

It is only at the final hundred meters or so to the temple gate that the path is widened and paved with wooden planks across it. Yet, despite its lack in architectural grandeur, it remains a very tranquil place where you can feel the presence of Buddha. The Cheongnyangsa Temple commands some of the best scenery in all Korea. It’s just too spectacular for words. The best spot to get the best view is in front of the Yuri Sanctuary at this temple.

A few hundred meters below the temple is Cheongnyang Jeongsa, a small retreat used by scholars for study and meditation in solitude. Above that is the Gimsaenggul, a shallow cave about ten minutes away from the temple, named after the famous Shilla Dynasty calligrapher Gim Saeng who is said to have practiced his writing there a thousand years ago. The Gimsaenggul cave is situated at the bottom of a large rock, making it an especially good cave to live in. Gim Saeng had lived in the cave for seven years, when, proud of himself for having stayed so long, he prepared to descend from the mountain. But as he was setting out, a maiden appeared and challenged him to a calligraphy contest. Gim Saeng lost. So he unpacked his belongings and went back to the cave and stayed until he had been there a full ten years.

Several trails start from the Mt. Cheongnyangsan Provincial park's main valley road. Major trails are marked by signs, but many of the tiny trails above the temple are not. Most of the trails up to the temple are steep and difficult, but the easiest and most pleasant one is the Ipseok trail, which heads around the side of the hill near Cheongnyangsa. The trail splits into two directions, the upper trail going up to the cave while the lower trail goes to the temple.

It is well known that Toegye, dearly loved the mountain. He first came to know it when at the age of 15, he came to study under his uncle at Osandang, near Cheongnyangsa Temple. After leaving the area he continued to come back and even when he was old and sick, he would be carried piggyback to the mountain by one of his students.

Cheongnyangsan is the setting for some famous stories about famous people. Ungjinjeon, a small hermitage where Monk Wonhyo stayed for ascetic training, sits on the shelf of a rocky cliff. Deep in autumn when the cliff is covered with colorful autumn leaves, people stop in their tracks and spend a long time just looking at it.

Cheongnyangsa Temple Yuribojeon

Cheongnyangsa Temple is currently a very small temple, but it is believed to have been very large at one point in time. There used to be 33 pavilions but due to political measures to abolish all temples in the country, during the Joseon Period, only the Cheongnyangsa Yuribojeon (a regional cultural asset) and Eungjinjeon, the annexed building remain today. Among the 12 summits forming flower petals, the Cheongnyang Temple is located right in the center as if it were the pistil. It is hard to find a temple more harmonized with nature as seen from afar than the Cheongnyang Temple. The calligraphy tablet of Yuri Sanctuary is written by King Gongmin himself when he hid in the temple, during the invasion of China in the Goryeo Period.

Just before the front entrance to the temple grounds, there is a small tea house called "When the wind meets sound." Some time back, a small concert was held at the teahouse. Several musicians and artists are known to have come regularly to the mountain to clear their heads. Over time they have come to know the monks at the temple and would sit down with them for rounds of song. When this became known in Seoul, the idea of a small concert was born. The event came as a surprise for those climbing the mountain at the time and left a deep impression on them. The Mountain Temple Music Concert which was initiated by the Cheongryang Temple and transmitted to all temples in Korea, is usually held on an autumn evening, a huge music concert where 6000 -7000 come to visit every year.

Bonghwa water rafting

Bonghwa water rafting 01

Art Nakdong River located at Myeongho-myeon, Bonghwa-gun, is where you can experience water rafting, whilst enjoying the beautiful natural view of the Cheongnyang Mountain Provincial Park. Nakdong River Rafting starts from where the upstream of Nakdong River and Ungok Stream meets. Nakdong River Rafting is available not only in summer, but also in spring and autumn

There are a few other temples in Bonghwa but I shall only tell you about the Chukseosa Temple in Gaedan-ri, Mulya-myeon as we do not have time to visit them all. This temple was built in 673 A.D by the great Buddhist monk, Uisangdaesa. Most buildings were destroyed by fire during the Korean War, and Daewungjeon and Yosachae are the only ones remaining today. There are two treasures to be found here at the Chukseosa Temple.

Bonghwa  Chukseosa temple Seokbul-jwasang-bugwangbae Bonghwa Chukseosa temple Gwaebultaeng In the Daewungjeon, is the Seokbul-Jwasangbugwangbae, a stone Birojana Buddhist statue. The other is the Gwaebultaeng, one of the Buddhist paintings of the Joseon Dynasty. It is remarkably artistic, and very well preserved. It is of the Yeoraedokjon-type of composition, which is rare in Gwaebul. It shows the true characteristics of the traditional Buddhist paintings of the middle 18th Century during the Joseon Dynasty.

Dakshil Ma-eul village is a historic site of the Joseon Dynasty, where the Cheongamjeong and Seokcheonjeong are well preserved. Lee Jung-Hwan, a realist during the Joseon Dynasty admired this area as a place for the prominent and fine views of Korea which can be seen in the Taekriji (a book).

Bonghwa has some very beautiful valleys and mountains.

Bonghwa Seokcheon Gyegok valley

The Seokcheon Gyegok valley is wide, shallow, and surrounded by thick pine forests. Broad, flat rocks are scattered throughout, and the valley is a great place for children to play. Next to the valley, you will also find the Seokcheonjeong Pavilion, which was built in 1535 during the Joseon period. This pavilion, made up of Bonghwa red pine trees called Chunyangmok, (the county tree) offers a great view of the nearby scenic mountain.

Bonghwa Cheongok Mountain Natural recreation forest

The Cheongoksan Recreational Forest is surrounded by 100-year-old pine trees, together with younger pines and larches. On Mt. Cheongoksan (1,276m in elevation) in the Taebaek Mountain range, you can see the trees standing tall amidst the majestic rock formations. In spring, beautiful wild flowers blossom throughout the forest, magnolias (the county flower) in particular, bloom within the valley. Cheongoksan Recreational Forest features a variety of facilities such as a nearby water park, a children’s playground, a fitness center, a campsite and an outdoor lecture field.

Bonghwa Baekcheok Gyegok valley

There are lots of virgin forests and deep valleys in the Baekcheok Gyegok valley located right on the edge of Mt.Cheongoksan. As it is being surrounded by high mountains such as the Yeokhwabong, the Cheongoksan, and the Jorokbawibong, as well as Mt.Taebaek, the water is clean and very cold. Here you will be able to see the Manchurian trout which live in the clean, fresh water streams.

Bonghwa Samijeong Gyegok valley

The Samijeong Gyegok valley in Socheon-ri, Beopjeon-myeon, is a Y-shaped valley between Mt. Taebaek and Mt. Sobaek. It has beautiful views of pine forests and wide rocks. Here too you will be able to see an abundance of fresh-water fish living in the streams.

Bonghwa Taebaek Mountain

Some of the famous mountains in Bonghwa include the Cheongoksan, the Taebaek, the Seondalsan, the Munsu, the Okseok and the Guryong. The Taebaek Mountain is known as Youngsan or spiritual mountain. The sunrise here is spectacular.

Seondalsan

Seondalsan at 1,236m, belongs to the Sobaeksanmaek mountain range and is known as Seondal Mountain. It is surrounded by Bonghwang Mountain to the south, Hyeongjebong of Hoiam Mountain and Sobaek Mountain to the west, and Yebaebong of Munsu Mountain and Man Mountain to the east and south.

Bonghwa Munsu Mountain

Munsu Mountain is the guardian mountain of Bonghwa and stands 1,205.6m above sea level.

Bonghwa Dadeok mineral water resort

The Dadeok mineral water resort (carbonic mineral water) is located at the side of the national road no.36. It is located under the Seumeunamu (tree) at Yesan, lots of people who drank it were favored. So it was called DadeokYaksu (mineral water). Agricultural products cultivated by nonpolluting methods are sold here, and the market is very popular among visitors.

Bonghwa Ojeon mineral water resortOjeon mineral water resort is located at Ojeon-ri, Mulya-myeon. It was discovered by a packman during the Joseon Dynasty, and it has been proven to be the best mineral water in Korea. It has a poignant taste because of the carbonic acid ingredients, and has medicinal effect on gastro enteric trouble and skin disease.

Bonghwa Dunae Yaksutang Dunae Yaksutang (mineral water resort) is located 6km away from Ojeon mineral water resort. The water tastes clean and cool.

Bonghwa Okseok Mountaingif

Okseok Mountain, at 1,242m is located 14km to the north of Bonghwa. According to Cheonbugyeong and Samilshingo, Hwanin (God) dropped by here when looking around the world and called it Okdolbong because of its jade and beautiful views. Okseok Mountain is the watershed of the Nakdong River flowing to the south and the Namhan River flowing to the north.

Bonghwa Guryong Mountain

Guryong Mountain at1345.7m was named as Guryongsan because of a dragon that flew in the sky. According to legend a woman carrying a water jar saw the dragon and pulled down its tail, and the dragon became a snake. It is located at the point where the Sobaeksanmaek mountain range is forked from the Taebaek Mountain Range with Taebaek Mountain, Cheongoksan, Gakhwasan, and Okseoksan.

Bonghwa Pine Mushroom Festival

The Bonghwa Chunyangmok Pine Mushrooms Festival is held in September every year at the Bonghwa-eup sports park, the whole place at Song-I Mountain, the Chunyangmok community. You may have noticed that Bonghwa pine mushrooms are used a lot in the local cuisine. Well Bonghwa happens to be the home of pine mushrooms. And that is reason enough to hold a festival where one can enjoy the taste and fragrance of the pine mushrooms, the jewels of the forest.

Bonghwa Euneo sweet fish Festival

The Bonghwa Euneo (sweet fish) Festival is held at the Bonghwa sports park, Naeseongcheon. Some of the activities include a sweet fish fishing experience, a sweet fish roasting experience, a night fishing experience, under-water races, water rafting, cycling, horse-riding, healthy walking competition and a bus tour to explore the cultural heritage in the region.. There will also be performances like the Provincial national classical music group, the Gyeongbuk Wind Ensemble performance and residents singing contest etc.

Mt.Cheongryangsan  Jaesan Watermelon Festival The Mt Cheongnyang Jaesan Watermelon Festival is a festival to unite through various events and to publicize the excellence of Jaesan Watermelon that is cultivated on clean mountain-fields. Jaesan Watermelon is cultivated at the high mountain-field, and safe to eat because there is no harmful material such as dioxin and heavy metal etc. by using natural compost. Thanks to the big gap in temperature between day and night, the flesh is firm, and it stays fresh for a long time. It is very sweet and delicious.

Some of the activities include a watermelon contest, a watermelon eating tournament, holding watermelon in hand for long time, dribbling a ball while holding a watermelon, instant singing contest, an Exhibition of special products and special performance by entertainers.

And so ends my episode for today. Thanks for stopping by and keep those comments coming in.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Discovering Gyeongsangbuk-do – Yeongju-si

Yeongju Homepage

Just take a look at the picture on the homepage of Yeongju, it’s just breathtaking. This picture made me want to go there and see this place, so shall we make it our next destination? Yeongju looks so quiet, peaceful and undisturbed, just the ideal place to relax and take in all its beauty. Here’s where the past and the present seem to coexist in perfect harmony.

Yeongju Magpie Yeongju Royal Azalea_04 Yeongju Gingko Tree Bachelor Yeongju Logo 01

The Magpie, which symbolizes pleasure and good luck in the bright future, has been chosen as the national bird of Yeongju. For flowers it’s the Royal Azalea which symbolizes collaboration, sympathy, and the devoted love of the local people. And as for trees it’s the Gingko Tree which is the tree of longevity and fertility, and which symbolizes development and prosperity. Then there’s the cute little mascot named Bachelor Yeongju that symbolizes dynamic and energetic Yeongju that always moves forward.

Yeongju is blessed with the natural beauty of Mt. Sobaeksan and dozens of valleys. It is located in an area that serves as the crossroads between the Sobaek and the Taebaek Mountains. It is surrounded by Bonghwa in the east, Yecheon and Andong in the south, Danyang in the province of Chungcheonbuk-do in the west and the county of Yeongwol in the north. The Naeseongcheon Stream runs along the length of the city and is a popular spot for the inhabitants of Yeongju to relax. It’s nice to know where the locals hang out so that we can come and join them for some of the local flavour.

As usual I shall give you an overview of the place first before we do any sightseeing. Don’t be surprised, Yeongju is also said to be the third-largest train station in Korea. For accommodation, there are many motels just west of the train station. It is also an area for Yeoinsuks there. Other accommodation are scattered throughout the northern part of the town, concentrated to the south of the Gongseol market and west of the JungAng Shijang.

"Home Plus" which has 3 levels for all shopping needs, is the largest grocery and department store located down the street from the train station. The street due west from the train station is the Home Mart whereas Dream Mart is a smaller one just south of the Yeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. NongHyup has the Hanaro Mart accessible from the JungAng Shijang and another one just a bit east of that.

Yeongju seems to have more public-market areas for its town size as compared with anywhere else in Korea. South Yeongju has a pretty good sized one; it's just north of the train station. In Yeongju's northern section there is a series of market areas stringing completely across the town. The Yeongju Gongseol Shijang is on the east side with roofs (good for rainy days). To the west, the market snakes out along narrow streets until it meets up with the JungAng Shijang. This runs on for several more blocks west.

You may remember me telling you that the Mungyeong apples come from the south of the Sobaek Mountains, Well, here in Yeongju you have even more apples because Yeongju is nestled in the Sobaek Mountains. You can see small pyramids of apples stacked up all along the streets of Yeongju which are the first things that grab your attention when you arrive in Yeongju.

For food, the Yeongju homepage recommends a few restaurants with the areas and types of food served which is very helpful for the visitor. Best meals to experience in the city include Korean beef barbeques, green-pea jelly and rice, and chicken broth with ginseng.

I have copied it down here for your convenience.

Restaurants

Division

Name

Address

Main menu

Buseoksa
Temple Area

Chamiga

Pukji-ri,
Buseok-myeon,
Yeongju

Mixed rice with
various vegetables

Buseoksa
Temple Area

Puseoksa Restaurant

Pukji-ri,
Buseok-myeon,
Yeongju

Mixed rice with
various vegetables

Buseoksa
Temple Area

Myeongseong
Restaurant

Pukji-ri,
Buseok-myeon,
Yeongju

Mixed rice with
various vegetables

Sosu Seowon Area

Huibangjang Inn

Upnae-ri,
Sunheung-myeon,
Yeongju

Rice with folk jelly

Sosu Seowon Area

Sunhung Folk Jelly

Naejung-ni,
Sunheung-myeon,
Yeongju

Rice and broth

Sosu Seowon Area

Cheongdari Old House

Naejung-ni,
Sunheung-myeon,
Yeongju

Rice with vegetables
for Korean ritual

Sosu Seowon Area

Sosam Restaurant

Upnae-ri,
Sunheung-myeon,
Yeongju

Spicy fish soup

Huibangsa Temple
(Mt.Sobaek) Area

Hungju Village

Sucheol-li,
Punggi-eup,
Yeongju

Dinner with various
vegetables

Huibangsa Temple (Mt.Sobaek) Area

Chukryeong Chumak

Sucheol-ri,
Punggi-eup,
Yeongju

Mixed rice with
various vegetables

Punggi Area

Pine Tree Restaurant

Seobu-ri,
Punggi-eup,
Yeongju

Cold noodle

Punggi Area

Seobu Cold Noodle

Seobu-ri,
Punggi-eup,
Yeongju

Roasted beef

Yeongju Area

Cheongu-Seotbul
Garden

Hyucheon 2-dong,
Yeongju

Roasted beef

Yeongju Area

Punggi Samgyetang

Hamang-dong,
Yeongju

Hot chicken soup

Shall we go sightseeing now? Yeongju takes great pride in its seonbi heritage, and is home to Korea’s first private educational institute, the Sosuseowon Confucian School., which makes it a good starting place for our trip to Yeongju.

Sosu Confucian SchoolThis school was built in memory of Yuhyeon Anhyang, one of the greatest Confucian scholars of the Goryo Dynasty. The institute originated from a memorial hall established by Ju Se-bong, who was a governor of Punggi county of Yeongju, during the Goryeo Dynasty It was originally named Baekundongseowon Confucian School but was later changed to Sosuseowon Confucian School, becoming the first legislated private institute of Korea in 1550, dedicated to studies in the advancement of Seongrihak (learning of human nature and natural laws). It is also the first seowan (Confucian academy) to have had national financial support by way of tax exemptions. Because of its historic significance, the seowon escaped destruction during the nationwide closure of Confucian schools in 1871
There is a hall containing the ‘Sosuseowon’ which was written by King Myeongjong and behind the hall are the Jikbangjae, Ilshinjae, Hakgujae and Jirakjae.

-An.Hyang-Goryeo-Sosu.Seowon

In the west, are the bookroom and the Munseonggong Tomb where the portrait of Anhyang (a National Treasure) painted at the end of the Goryeo Dynasty and the Daesungjisung King Munseon’s Jeonjwado (another National Treasure) are enshrined.

The Jibangjae and Ilsinjae halls (used as the working and living areas for the lecturers) underwent some repairs recently so everything looks new. The institute is also the shrine for various relics, including the portrait of Hoeheon, an ancestor of the oriental neo-Confucianism. A museum located next to the seowon area exhibits various items showing the development of Confucianism, and relics from the Bronze Age found in the region.

Sahyeonjeong, or the "Well of the Four Sages", dates from 1545, when Ju Sebung was magistrate of Punggi county. The monument was established to honor An Seok, a man who was famous for his devotion to the education of his four sons in the Goryeo dynasty Ju Sebung is also famous for establishing Sosu Seowon, the first private academy in Korea. In 1636, An Eungchang, a descendent of An Seok, wrote the epitaph now standing by the well. The present monument was constructed in 1821 by An Seongyeon, the magistrate of Andong. The well is located about a kilometer south of Sosu Seowon in the middle of a small farming village.

108 Steps to Muryangsujeon Hall and Anyangmun, or Nirvana Gate

Any visit to Buseoksa begins with the hike to the temple itself. The path to the complex is preceded by a series of 108 stone steps between the Cheonwangmun gate and the Anyangmun gate. The number 108 is significant. According to Buddhism, mankind is afflicted with 108 defilements — gluttony, quarrelsomeness and lecherousness being but three of them. The steps, accordingly, are divided into nine blocks, symbolically representing the nine degrees of rebirth of Pure Land Buddhism. Accordingly, as you ascend the steps, you symbolically shed the 108 defilements and pass through the nine degrees of rebirth until you finally enter Nirvana.

Stone StructureAnyone who has visited Buseoksa Temple remembers its special stonework and stone stairs. This stonework was made by flattening the slopes when Buseoksa Temple was being established. The purpose of this stonework was to compact the land to lay foundation for the temple structure, but the stonework with stairs itself serves as a symbol. It symbolizes the mandala of the three last ways among 16 ways to go to the Heaven. Every visitor to Buseoksa Temple passes the symbolic stairs and stonework to arrive at the Heaven. Another unique characteristic is that the stonework is made with unrefined stone. Carefully selected natural stones are stacked together to build a concrete structure.Hapumdan is the name of the stairs from Cheonwangmun Gate to Yosache Building and Jungpumdan is the name of the stairs from Yosache to Beomjongru (Bell). Just before you reach the main courtyard, you pass under a wooden gateway/pavilion known as Anyangmun, or “Nirvana Gate.” The last set of three stairs from Beomjongru which leads to the front yard of Muryangsujeon Building is called Sangpumdan.

As you pass through, Nirvana — represented by Muryangsujeon Hall — gradually comes into view. Once you arrive, a most spectacular view awaits you —the countless peaks of the Sobaeksan Mountains.

Buseoksa Temple 12

These posts are stone relics from the Silla Empire. They were erected when Buseoksa Temple was built. It would have held the flags of Hwaeom Order, 1,300 years ago, but there only is a pair of stone posts today. The posts are standing to the left of the path between Iljumun Gate and Cheonwangmun Gate and are 4.8m in height. The posts narrow as they rise and look very strong. The top of the posts are the engravings of slanted two-level arcs. The body has bands of relief and the supporting stones are finished with lotus engravings.

Muryangsujeon hall at Buseoksa temple 01

At the heart of this Nirvana world is Muryangsujeon Hall, the main building of the Buseoksa Temple and a National Treasure. The hall, with its simple adornment, presents an effortlessly refined dignity. It is noble yet inviting, an architectural expression of the Western Paradise of Pure Land Buddhism. Appropriately, enshrined in the western end of the hall is a magnificent clay statue of Amitabha Buddha, the Buddha of the Western Paradise. It is the oldest clay statue in Korea and another National Treasure

Seated Buddha

There’s also a seated statue of Buddha in this hall. What is unique is that Muryangsujeon is facing south but the Buddha is facing east. There are many explanations, but could it be that the statue is facing Seorabeol (the capital) to protect the nation?

In 1916, while repairs on the central Muryangsujeon Hall were being conducted, records were discovered indicating it was last reconstructed in 1376, making it the second oldest wooden building in Korea, and one of only a handful of wooden structures dating from the Goryeo era. The Murangsujeon hall is considered one of the most beautifully built wooden constructions in Korea with beautiful curved lines in its building structure. The great Buddhist Monk, Wonyung, was responsible for the renovations of the Muryangsujeon.

Buseoksa Stone Lantern In front of Muryangsujeon Hall is a handsome stone lantern dating from the Unified Silla period. With its finely carved lotus leaf pedestal and Bodhisattva reliefs, it is a masterpiece of Silla art. It is believed that this stone lantern was built when Buseoksa Temple was established. With the beautifully skillful craftsmanship and aesthetics, it is known as the most beautiful stone lantern from the Silla Dynasty. A rectangular stylobate is placed on the compacted foundation and the lotus-shaped covering stone was placed on top of it. Then, an eight-angled stone post is erected to support another lotus stone and an eight-angled firing stone. Four sides of the firing stone have windows and the remaining four sides have the engravings of Bodhisattva. On top of this beautiful firing stone is the eight-angled roof stone. The green moss on the roof stone gives greater value to this traditional stone lantern.

3-story Stone Pagoda of Buseoksa

Pagodas are normally erected in front of buildings with the Buddhist statues. However, the 3-story Stone Pagoda of Buseoksa is curiously standing to the east of Muryangsujeon Building. It seems to be related to the direction of the Amitabha inside Muryangsujeon that is facing east. The pagoda was established together with the Buseoksa Temple. It is the typical 3-story stone pagoda from the Silla Unification period. It looks very sturdy and well-built.

Josadang

About 100m to the northeast of Muryangsujeon Building is Josadang which was the home of monk Uisang and where his portrait is enshrined. The Josadang, is a small hall also built in the late Goryeo era. In front of Josadang is a tree that is protected inside a special fence. This tree is the famous Seonbihwa, which is the tree grown from monk Uisang’s cane. When monk Uisang was leaving for India, he erected the cane on the ground and said, “This cane will lay roots and grow branches and leaves.”
The fence had to be build around it for protection because many people believed that drinking the brewed water of its leaves would help them conceive sons.

According to the congratulatory letter discovered in 1916, it was established in 1377 and preserved beautifully the typical architectural styles of the Goryeo Dynasty. It is a gable-roofed building with three front units, one side unit, and brackets on column heads. The rafters extend from the eaves make the roofing look heavy, but the roofing is actually small and simple.

Josadang Mural. jpg

This is the mural of the Four Great Kings and Bodhisattva. It was drawn onto the inside wall when Josadang was almost complete in 1377. Since then, the mural has been studied to understand the paintings of the Goryeo Dynasty.
When Josadang was disassembled and restored in 1916, the wall was detached and moved to the protection center for preservation. The colors seem to fade over time, but it still exhibits the dignified beauty of Goryeo painting.

Seated Stone Buddha

If you go up the hill from Josadang you can hear the clear sound of the gong from Jaindang. This Seated Stone Buddha was originally located at the old site of Buseoksa Temple, but was moved to Jaindang. Its two hands are lost, but it still has the face, pedestal, and backlight.
The two statues here have the same style with only slightly different engravings. Thus, they are believed to have been made by the same artist. Overall, the statues are elegant and humane. However, details are rather stiff and rigid. Considering the two arms that are lifted to the chest, it is assumed that they are Vairocanna which was popular in the late 9th Century. Its rigid body, formal wrinkles on the clothes, and elaborately decorated backlight and pedestal with various patterns clearly reflect the characteristics of this period.

The Buseoksa Sikdang

Feeling hungry? There are stalls along the way, selling by the cup milky Korean rice wine, or dongdongju, with added ginseng. Like most major Buddhist temples, there are a number of good restaurants near the temple parking lot. The Buseoksa Sikdang does a really good gangodeungeo jeongsik (about 10,000 won a person) rice, soup and plenty of side dishes along with salted mackerel, a regional specialty. You can also try insam mukbap, a mixed rice dish with ginseng and acorn jelly, for 6,000 won per person.

For those wanting to feel more of Mount Sobaek, a hike along Jungnyeong path is a good choice. The path, restored recently, was the main gateway between the southern part of the peninsula and Hanyang (Seoul) during the Joseon period. Although the path is steep, it was popular among scholars and merchants travelling to the capital. It is lined with tall pine trees and diverse wild flowers, which makes the hike a pleasant one. Towards the bottom of the path, apple orchards spread out as far as the eye can see. And if you are lucky, one of the good-natured farmers may hand you an apple or two.

Sobaeksan National Park

The Sobaeksan National Park, designated as a National Park In i987, is what you might call, a branch of the backbone of Korea, Mt. Taebaeksan. There are many wild flowers and royal azaleas on Birobong Peak and the largest yew tree community is found on the northwest slope (1,200~1,350m above sea level) between Yeonhwabong Peak and Birobong Peak.
The west of Mt. Sobaeksan is steep and streams from the Nakdonggang River flow to the Jukgyaecheon River, which is often used as a hiking course. Following down from Birobong Peak by Jukgyaecheon River is Seokryun Mine, and Choamsa Temple. If you proceed even further, you will get to Seokcheonpokpo Waterfall and Seonghyeolsa Temple. In this valley, there are mountain trouts that can only live in clean water.

A 4km flat path to the southwest from Birobong Peak leads to Yeonhwabong Peak. The National Astronomical Observatory is on the way to the second Yeonhwabong Peak from the 1st Yeonhwabong Peak, and a ridge called Jukryeong is to the south of the mountain. To the east of the second Yeonhwabong Peak, are the Huibangsa Temple and Birosa Temple built in the Silla Dynasty. The Huibangpokpo Waterfall, considered the most beautiful waterfall of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, is at the entrance of Huibangsa Temple. The scenery at Mt. Sobaeksan National Park is simply breathtaking.

The Sobaeksan Oknyeobong Recreational Forest in Dusan-ri Bonghyeon-myeon at the foot of Oknyeobong Peak on Mt. Sobaeksan is a great place to relax and take a rest. There are beautiful trails here to explore. This natural recreation forest have bungalows, a community kitchen, shower rooms, outdoor classrooms, and a designated parking area for visitors at this recreational forest..
The forest enjoys the scenic backdrop of Mt. Sobaeksan. You can also visit the nearby attractions such as the Buseoksa Temple, Sosuseowon Confucian School and Huibang Valley. Located in the northernmost part of Gyeongsangbuk-do, Oknyeobong Recreational Forest has numerous activities and beautiful natural spots. You can take a rest amidst the refreshing air, and enjoy the clean mountain waters. Also, the area offers a great view of Gukmangbong, Birobong, and Dosolbong Peaks; this recreational forest is busiest during the Sobaeksan Royal Azalea Festival.

Another recommended destination is the "Sudo-ri folk village", which sits in the middle of Naeseong stream. There are traditional houses there with people still staying in them. The Mount Sobaek Punggi springs is a good place for soaking those sore feet in, at the end of the hike. Sudo-ri Folk Village is the traditional village that preserves beautiful nature and old homes. Naeseongcheon Village surrounds three sides of the village, making the village look like an island. There is a stable bridge across the river to connect the village to the neighboring one. The village consists of old homes and pavilions. Amongst them are, Haeudang and Manjukjae, (designated Folk Items) beautiful old homes, that exhibit the humble formality of old nobles.

Before I end here, I’d like to tell you about some of the festivals of Yeongju. Just see how beautifully it’s done on the homepage.

punggiGinseng

The Punggi Ginseng Festival and the Royal Azalea Festival are held simultaneously every October by the Namwoncheon Stream in Punggi-eup. Some of the activities include the Gaesamteo Goyuje, Insamdaeje, the Insam Singing Contest, the Insam Marathon, Ginseng Digging, and an Exhibition.

nobleCulture

The Noble Culture Festival is also held every October but at the Yeongju Seonbichon where the main events are Traditional Art Performances, Traditional Experience (Folk Games), etc

yeongju apple festival

The Yeongju Apple Festival is held every October and November in Buseok-myeon, Yeongju. There are competitions like making long peels and apple eating competitions.

What ? We just missed four great festivals! Never mind we’ll come back next year in October.

Dansan grape festival

The Dansan Grape Festival is held every September in Dansan-myeon, Yeongju where you can see how wine is made, and enjoy grapes/grape juice tasting.

Mt Bakbong watermelon festival

The Watermelon Festival is held every July and August in Isan-myeon, Yeongju where the main activities are good harvest ritual, watermelon appraisal, opening, watermelon tasting, watermelon eating competition, fishing, water volleyball, performances, singing contest, camp fire and fireworks.

buseoksa hwaeom festival

The Buseoksa Temple Hwaeom Festival is held every September near Buseoksa Temple where the main events are the Academic Seminar, Hwaeom Music Festival, Hwaeom Ritual, Buddhist Art Festival.

Well guess that’s about it for today. See you next time.