Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Discovering Gyeongsangbuk-do Gyeongsan-si Part 1

Today we are back on the road and heading for the dynamic city of Gyeongsan. Gyeongsan-si lies adjacent to Daegu Metropolitan City to the west, Gyeongju-si to the east, Yeongcheon-si to the north and Cheongdo-gun to the south.
Now, let’s take a look at the symbols of this city as laid out on the city’s homepage.


Gyeongsan Symbol Emblem
The symbol, using the G and S, the initial letters of "Gyeong" and "San," expresses the well harmonized interconnection between two extremes or poles in a style of G's positive strongness and S's negative smoothness.
Explanation: Green color expresses environment and human beings (education), as well as the future vision and hope.
Explanation: Blue color expresses a solid foundation resulting from the history, latest industries and broad education policies.
The entire design reflects an image of the blue-colored hope properly harmonized with the green-colored foundation.
Gyeongsan Gingko tree Gingko tree
This Ginko city tree is the world's fourth biggest tree and represents the continued prosperity, excellent patience and kindness of citizens.
Gyeongsan Magnolia Magnolia
The city flower of Gyeongsan is the magnolia blossoming in the early spring. The blooms are especially large and white and symbolize the peace and stability of citizens.
Gyeongsan Magpie Magpie
In Korea, magpies are believed to be a good omen or auspicious sign. The intense sound of a magpie expresses the bright, hopeful nature of our citizens.
Gyeongsan Bepuri Bepuri
The symbol expresses an image of promoting the friendship between citizens, in addition to a well harmonized image among educational, industrial and cultural categories.
Gyeongsan Naming Naming
It has the meaning of "Be friend' which indicates "Charity" in Korean language. Bepuri is a good friend who loves and takes care of all Gyeongsan citizens.







Gyeongsan was home to many famous people, amongst them the great monk Wonhyo, the great scholar Seolchong and the great priest and scholar Ilyeon.

WonHyo 
Wonhyo (617-686) was a great Buddhist priest during the Unified Silla Kingdom. His family name was Seol. He was born in Apryang-gun, Gyeongsan. At the age of 15, he entered a Buddhist monastery.

One legend tells of how he attained enlightenment. On his way to study in Tang, China with the priest Uisang, he happened, one night, to sleep in a cave. In the middle of the night, Wonyo was awakened by severe thirst and drank water which turned out to be stagnant water in a human skull. Then immediately, he obtained enlightenment, declaring that "the ultimate truth lies not outside oneself but within oneself." Then he turned his back on Silla. He left the priesthood and turned to the spreading of the Buddhadharma as a layman. He married Princess Yoseok and fathered Seol Chong, who is considered to be one of the great Confucian scholars of Silla.

Wonhyo was not only a luminous Buddhist scholar, but thinker. He also contributed greatly to turning aristocratic Buddhism into the people's religion. He was not biased towards any one sect, but harmonized with one truth in Buddhism.
Gyeonggi Silleuksa Temple 
 Gyeonggi Silleuksa Temple 02

Gyeonggi Silleuksa Temple 01

He is thought to have founded Korea's only riverside temple, Silleuksa or Shilleuksa, located in Gyeonggi-do. Today Silleuksa is a sacred pilgrimage site and a repository of seven Treasures. A 500-year-old aromatic juniper tree and a 600-year-old ginkgo tree stand on the temple grounds. It is worth a visit as it is not far from Seoul, (only about an-hour’s trek from Seoul.) Don’t worry you can even go there by car or bus. In 1977, the temple land was developed for tourism and development. Public establishments and other tourist conveniences are now in place and ready for use. There are many other establishments nearby, including shops, convenience facilities, rest areas, arcades and an amusement park. The Silleuksa Temple tourist resort makes board and lodging possible and offers tours to the Royal Mausoleum of King Sejong and the Moka Buddhist Museum.

While Wonhyo was staying at the Bunhwangsa temple located in Gyeongju, he wrote a number of books. A research center and a shrine, the Bogwangjeon hall, dedicated to Wonhyo's legacy, are located at the Bunhwangsa, due to its strong association with Wonhyo,

Seol Chong

Seol Chong was a great scholar during the middle of the Silla Kingdom. His other name was Chongji. He was the son of Wonhyo and Princess Yoseok. He belonged to the aristocracy, the 6th bone-rank order. According to the Jeungbomunheonbigo, he was the founder of the Gyeongju Seol clan. He is also known as a great scholar who compiled and perfected the Idu writing system. He is regarded as one of 10 sages of the Silla Kingdom, one of the three finest writers of the Silla Kingdom, and one of 18 Korean Confucian sages who have been enshrined in the Korean National Confucian Shrine. He left Hwawanggye, a satirical writing about a king, and inscriptions on a Buddha statue. His memorial shrine was built at Hadae-ri, Namsan-myeon, in 1923.

Ilyeon

Ilyeon (1206-1289) was born in Jangsan-gun, Gyeongsan. He was the most revered priest in the Buddhist circle during the intervention of the Mongols. He won the confidence of King Chungryeol and became a kukjon, the supreme head of the Buddhist hierarchy, in 1283.

Although he was a priest, he was a filial son to his mother. Always, he wished to stay close to his mother in Gyeongsan even while staying at Kwangmyongsa in Gaeseong, capital of the Goryeo Dynasty, as the kukjon. During his life, he stayed long at temples on Mt. Biseul and Mt. Unmun close to Gyeongsan.
He left such writings such as the Samguk Yusa and Jungpyeonjodongowi. A memorial pagoda stands at Ingaksa where he spent his last years. After his death, Gyeongsan-hyeon, his birthplace, was elevated to the chief eup from a branch eup of Donggyeong Gyeongju in 1317.


Sapsalgae
Don’t these dogs look cute? Do you know that the Sapsalgae are the oldest endemic dogs in Korea? Sapsalgae are the representative indigenous species of dogs widely distributed in the south-eastern region of the Korean peninsula and are designated and protected as Natural Monument #368.

Yellow Sapsalgae dog 

Sapsalgae are medium sized and slightly longer than tall. Their adult coat is long and abundant, and comes in various colours including solid and/or mixed shades of black, golden yellowish-blonde, reddish-orange, browns, and salt-and-pepper greys. Their hair falls over the eyes. Their ears are drooping and their muzzles aren’t as sharp-pointed as the Jindo dogs. Their tails are raised, and they have big heads.

The dogs have bold and brave natures, and are faithful to their owners. They appear to have been bred exclusively as house dogs; their 'work' spiritual rather than physical. Traditionally, these dogs were believed to dispel ghosts and evil spirits and even misfortune.

Sapsalgae(The native dog of Korea) in Gyeongsan

During the Silla dynasty, the nobles raised Sapsalgaes. The dogs were pets for aristocratic families of the Silla Kingdom. General Kim You Shin took them as military dogs to wars. Sapsalgae were the noble dogs in the palaces.
Sapsalgae dog

During the Joseon period, they appeared in songs, folk tales and paintings, thus sharing the joy and sorrow with the Korean people. During the Japanese colonial period (1910-1945) even these dogs were victims to the Japanese policy to annihilate Korean traditional cultures and their numbers were greatly reduced. Consequently the Sapsalgae were in danger of becoming extinct.

Blue Sapsalgae dog

Many Koreans themselves thought that the Sapsalgae were little long furred imported foreign dogs when in true fact they were the native dogs of Korea. That was why veterinary Professor Tak Yeon Bi and Kim Hwa Sik from Gyeongbuk University, wanted to correct this misconception by giving the Sapsalgae the true recognition due to them.

Sapsalgae(The native dog of Korea) in Gyeongsan 01 
They collected 30 pure breeds of Sapsalgae in the Gyeongbuk area and the Southern Gang won mountains from the late 1960's and presented the results of the study about them. The group of Sapsalgae now existing are descendents of them. These Sapsalgae were raised and kept in farms in Daegu in 1972. At first there were 7-8 dogs only, but after they were moved to farms in Gyeongsan, they managed to search for more Sapsalgae, the number of Sapsalgae increased in the tens in 1989. An effort was made to make the Sapsalgae a Natural Monument 'endemic dog', and it proved fruitful because it was designated Natural Monument #368 on March 7, 1992. To look after the interests of the Sapsalgae, with regards to their breeding and preservation etc. the “Association for Sapsalgae Conservation of Korea," was formed.

As pure breeds among 200 dogs, the Gyeongsan Sapsalgae were found to be good, skilled and intellectual individuals; and comparable to the German Shepherds, big and handsome, very impressive like lions when running, expressing their warm hearts through their bodies and eyes when they see their masters.

Recently, the number of Sapsalgae has reached approximately 500 dogs. At present, the original species of this dog is collectively raised in the Hayang-Eup area of Gyeongsan.

Korea Jindo Dog

The Sapsalgae is planned to be elevated to a world class dog, and to be able to enter an event for famous dogs of the world. Although the Sapsalgae has been identified and recognized by both leading Korean dog societies, the Korean Canine Club (FCI affiliate) and the Korean Kennel Club, the only Korean dog that has official international recognition is the Jindo.
Gyeongsan Nanpogotaek

Let us now visit one of the famous houses in Gyeongsan. Nanpogotaek, Tangible Cultural Asset #80 in Gokran-ri, Yongseong-myeon, was built in 1546 by Choe Gongcheol, an official who defended Jeonju during the Japanese Invasion of 1592-98. It is recorded in his biography that the house survived the invasions. The style of construction, however, suggests that it was remodeled around the 17th century. One of the end tiles on the roof is inscribed with the words "the 14th year of Gagyeong," which indicates the house was renovated in 1809. The house once consisted of a main living area, a men's quarters, a master's quarters, a servants' quarters, a mill house, a stable, and an ancestral shrine but only the main living area, the servants' quarters and the shrine remain. The roof of the main building is a rather imaginative variation of a hipped-and-gabled roof. The hall has paneled doors and an attic extends over the rooms at both sides of the hall.

Gyeongsan Hayanghyanggyo

The Hayanghyanggyo(Confucian School in Hayang) in Gyo-ri, Hayang-eup, Cultural Properties Materials #107, consists of eight buildings. On the sloped land, Waesammun Myeongryndang, Naesammun, and Daeseongjeon were built in a row, and at the back of the Myeongryundang, are Dongjae and Seojae and in front of the Daejseongjeon, are the Jeonsacheong and the Gimulgo.
The Dongjae and·Seojae (the student dormitories) are usually located in front of the Myeongryundang in the Jeonhakhumyo-type of construction, but at Hayang Hyanggyo they are located at the back of the Myeongryundang. The Daeseongjeon has 3-rooms in the front and 3-rooms at the side, whereas the Myeongryundang has 5-rooms in the front and 2-rooms at the side. There are tablets for Gong Ja and other sages from Korea and China in the Daeseongjeon.
But now, only the Daeseongjeon, the Myeongryundang, the Naesammun and the Waesammun remains.
 Stromatolite fossils in Eun Ho Li, Gyeong

Stromatolite is the accumulative structure where small deposits piled over and over on the earliest living organisms on the earth. It is very rare geology information and it is very hard to be seen in Korea. Groups of stromatolite fossils in Eun Ho Li, Gyeong San has been very well preserved and it is very rare even in the whole world. Stromatolite fossils are the oldest fossils in the world, about 3 billion years old, and it lived on the planet in the precambrian era. It can be found in many places in the world but not like Eun Ho Li where it has groups of it with well preservation.

Gyeongsan Guyeonjeong

Gyeongsan Guyeonjeong, Treasure #415 in Nae-ri, Jinryang-myeon was a pavilion  built by Jikhae Kim Ik-dong and located on the cliff of the Geumho riverside, at the back of Daegu University.

It is a ‘2-rooms in the front, 2-rooms at the side’ scaled Paljak tile-roofed house. On the map, the front faces the Northeast, which is overlooking the Geumhogang (river). The front part is the main floored room, and the back part is an underfloor-heated room. At the back of the underfloor-heated room, a narrow wooden veranda was built for easy access to the pavilion.

Gyeongsan Sanggam Chohwamunbyeong

Now I would like to tell you about the Sanggam Chohwamunbyeong (Bottle with inlaid grass design) Treasures #239 which belongs to the Yeongnam University and is kept in the Yeongnam University Museum in Dae-dong.
This relic has a Maebyeong-type appearance with a round body, a slender waist, and wide legs. It has a grayish and glossy texture and the inlaid work is transparent.

On the body, the vine flower pattern has a white inlay accented with a black inlay. The shoulder has a thick band of dark green and white inlay. The mouth has a lotus pattern in black..

Goryeo celadon gave way to Buncheong ware on which designs were being inlaid with techniques further advanced using the surface method not the thin- line method.

On the swollen surface of the main body, with a vigorous and daring touch, patterns of flowers and bindweeds are being inlaid in white, while the open spaces in between them in black, which make vivid contrast with each other.
This explains clearly the transition process from Goryeo to the Joseon Era. This valuable porcelain was found among the ashes of a burnt house belonging to Jang Taeksang, the first Minister of Foreign Affairs.




Cheongsan The saddle of Choi Mun-byeong,

Another item of great value is the  saddle of Choe Mun-byeong (1557~1599) who played an active part in the resistance against the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is kept at the (Daegu National Museum.) in Gyeongsan.

When the Japanese invaded Joseon in 1592, he gathered resistance troops at Hyangri, and defeated the enemy at Cheonjangsan, and in cooperation with another leader, Park Gyeong-jeon, he defeated the enemy at Dugok, Seonam, and Gajihyeon.

As a result, he was appointed superintendent in 1593.upon the recommendation of Park Jin, a senior government official titled Dongjijungchubusa, He was posthumously honoured as the Mayor of Seoul.

The saddle has been kept in an unusually good condition and has all the accessories such as the Deungja, Baeddi, and Godeulgae and is of great value. Angyo, the part that sticks out on both the front and back of the saddle, is framed by wood and covered with Bongnyun (two-fold screen for saddle), which is made of carved bone and tightened with metal pieces around the margin. The outer part of the Angyo is covered with porcupine skin and pieces of bone made into flower shape are attached on three locations. Underneath the Angyo is carved out in a round shape and the pieces of bone are attached around its frame. The seating area is made of leather. The footrest is made of metal and the footrest is made in a circular shape. Both sash and whip are made from jute and cotton fabrics.

Gyeongsan Apryang relics

The Apryang relics, Historic relics #218, is located at Seonhwa-ri, Jinryang-eup, Gyeongsan-si, on a low hill that overlooks Apryang field.
This was the military drilling ground used by General Kim Yusin(595-673)when he was the military commander of Amnyangju.
There were three military drilling grounds, one in Amnyang-dong, another in Nae-dong and a third in Seonhwa-dong.
Silla established its forward base in Amnyangju and General Kim Yusin gave his soldiers military and spiritual training here in preparation for the unification of the three kingdoms.

Gyeongsan Ancient tombs in Imdang-dong,

Gyeongsanimdangdonggobungun(Ancient tombs in Imdang-dong, Gyeongsan), Historic Site #300, is located on the north-western hill of ‘Daedong’ village. The old tombs on the hill of Imdang-dong are what was built in the early Three States.The mounds scattered about this hill are tombs that are believed to have come from an ancient tribal, walled-town called Apdokguk.
It has been recorded in the Samguksagi (the History of Three States written by Kim Busik) that the king of Apdokguk State surrendered Silla in the 23rd ruling year of King Pasa.

The Apdokguk State is estimated to have been located in the neighbourhood of Amnyang-myeon where the tombs of Imdang-dong exist.

After some grave robbers were caught in 1982, the Yeongnam University Museum excavated the tombs. The excavation revealed that some of the tombs consisted of vertical holes cut into the rocks and some of the chambers created out of piled up rocks. Some of the mounds also showed that large jars had been used as coffins.

Relics found in ancient tombs in Imdang-dong, Gyeongsan Relics found in ancient tombs in Imdang-dong, Gyeongsan 02

Relics found in ancient tombs in Imdang-dong, Gyeongsan 01


Many burial items including personal ornaments like hat decorations and gold rings and earrings, earthenware vessels and horse equipment were excavated from the tombs. At the same time, pieces of Mumuntogi were retrieved that were recognized as the relics belonging to the Bronze Age.


As the remains of more than one person were found in the tombs, the tombs are believed to be that of tribal chiefs or other leaders since it was a custom to entomb living people with the remains of high-ranking people.

One of the tombs has been restored in such a way that its interior can be viewed.
The more than 2,000 items excavated from here are housed at the Yeongnam University Museum.

(Ancient tombs in Joyeong-dong, Gyeongsan)

Gyeongsanjoyeongdonggobungun(Ancient tombs in Joyeong-dong), Historic Sites #331, consists of the whole area of Bujeok-ri, Amnyang-myeon, Gyeongsan-gun, Joyeong-dong Gyeongsan-si.
About 10 tombs are scattered in the low and flat hill area around Joyeong-dong, Gyeongsan-si. Yeongnam University Museum performed two excavations here in 1988 and 1989 and 6-7 tombs were restored after the excavation.

Gyeongsan Ancient tombs in Joyeong-dong 01,jpg Gyeongsan stone coffin of ancient tombs in Joyeong-dong,

Gyeongsan Ancient tombs in Joyeong-dong,

Various types of tombs such as the jar coffin tombs where the dead were put into jars, the pit type stone chamber tombs and the tunnel type stone chamber tombs were found here. Most of the excavated tombs were the pit type stone chamber tombs.

The excavated relics included earthenware, ornaments such as gold and bronze crown, belt, earrings, weapons, and horse gear.

Considering the inside structure of the tombs and the excavated relics, it was presumed that these tombs were built between the 3rd and 5th centuries.
Presently, there is a grass field around the tombs and they are protected by a fence.


It has been more than 40 years since the cultivation of grapes started in Gyeongsan, in the sixties. With good soil and abundant sunshine the grapes produced are very big with high sugar content. The M.B.A. grapes, cultivated in the Namcheon area, have been recognized all over Korea for its superior quality. The Geobong grapes, produced in the Namsan area, is fully delivered to large department stores across the country by contract and it cannot be tasted even at the original production site.

The peaches cultivated in Gyeongsan are a kind of Cheondo peach and the cultivation area is expanding thanks to the proper climate and natural features for peaches.
Especially, in the Yongseong region, a mountainous back land with a big temperature gap, the peaches are very sweet. The Namsan region has abundant sunshine and fertile land, so its peaches are big and have good colour and flavour.

Gyeongsan has a heavenly climate that has almost no natural disasters such as typhoons and floods etc. with plenty of sunshine, so it is the best place to cultivate jujubes. The large fruit with rich mineral contents is well known across the country.

It started out as an apple alternative in the early 1970s, and has been produced at such an enormous rate that it has been recognized as the largest jujube producing district in the country. Most of the jujubes are grown in Apryang, Jinryang, Jain and Hayang, where the climate and soil are most suited.

And with this we have come to the end of today’s visit to Gyeongsan. So till we meet again, good-bye.



Special thanks and appreciation to the following:
Photos and articles © courtesy:

http://www.gbgs.go.kr/eng/main/main.htm                                       http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english                                     
http://biz.gbgs.go.kr/eng/index.html        http://museum.gbgs.go.kr/open_content/eng/gs/cultural01_view.jsp?no=2       http://english.tour2korea.com












 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, March 5, 2010

Tteok! Tteok! Tteok! Part 2


From my previous post you have seen how the 1st and 60th birthdays are most important to the Koreans, so today I shall tell you about some of the festivals and ancestral worship and the types of tteok prepared for these celebrations.

Koreans always prepare tteok and hangwa (traditional Korean sweets and cookies) for festive and seasonal occasions and Ancestral Memorial Services. They are usually enjoyed as desserts these days. The varieties of tteok are actually based on the method of making them.

siru-tteok   Jeolpyeon,
 Injeolmi 01 chal bukumi
hwajeon Jeungpyeon
Yaksik 

  • Sirutteok is rice powder mixed with other ingredients and steamed in a siru, an earthenware
  • Jeolpyeon and injeolmi are made by steaming glutinous rice and pounding them to make a firm and sticky dough.
  • Bukkumi and hwajeon are kneaded glutinous rice dough shaped into small circles and pan-fried.
  • Jeungpyeon is a steamed rice cake made with white rice flour and rice wine. It is also called Sultteok, or rice wine cake.
  • Yaksik, also called yakban or yakbap, is steamed sticky rice made with chestnuts, jujubes (Korean dates), honey, pine nuts and cinnamon.
Due to the hectic pace of life today, modern Korea has lost many of its traditional holidays. But a few holidays are still celebrated fervently.

Let’s start with Danil, New Year’s Day, the first day of the year which falls on 1st January. Actually, the festivities would have started on Seotdal Geumeum or New Year’s Eve, on 31st December when people would  stay up all night long with all doors open to receive ancestral spirits.  

The last day of December was called Jeseok or Jeya. It was a must for those people with debts to pay them off prior to the beginning of the new year. On this day, people caught birds, bowed in greeting to elders, or engaged in a ritualistic cleaning called suse. Bowing on that day was intended to be a report to the elders that one had safely spent the year without any accident. For suse the house was lit by a lighted torch at various places to symbolically prevent the approach of minor demons.
Also, while housewives prepared food to treat the New Year's guests, men cleaned in and outside the house. In other words, they were getting rid of the past year's minor demons and misfortunes and were preparing to begin a new year with a pure spirit.

Additionally, if one slept on this night, it was believed that one's eyebrows would turn white; therefore, it was the custom for people to stay up all night. When a sleeping child was found, his or her eyebrows would be painted by someone with white powder; the next morning people would tease the child by saying that the color of his or her eyebrows' had changed into white.

If you can recall from my post about watching the first sunrise of the year, people would be spending that night at the respective sites where they wanted to watch the sunrise, where entertainment and other programs would be drawn up to keep the people awake. In addition to tteokguk, rice cakes like injeolmi, golmubyeong, juak, and hangwa (traditional biscuits) will be served on New Year’s Day.

Dates of festivals having the same number for its day and month according to the lunar calendar, (especially odd numbers) were believed to be good days to celebrate life and cheerfulness based on the Yin-Yang philosophy; like Seollal (1st day of the 1st lunar month), Samjinnal (3rd day of the 3rd lunar month), Dano (5th day of the 5th lunar month, Chilseok (7th day of the 7th lunar month) and Jungyangjeol (9th Day of the 9th lunar month.)

Perhaps I should tell you something about the different types of ancestral worship first so that you can have a better picture.

The old Chinese book ‘Yeseo’ writes that ‘King performs worship ritual to heaven, feudal lords to nature and gentry to their ancestors.’

In Korea, ancestral worship is referred to by the generic term jerye or jesa. Notable examples of jerye include Munmyo jerye and Jongmyo jerye, which are performed periodically each year for revered Confucian scholars and kings of ancient times, respectively. Jerye is a formality to cherish the memory of the deceased, and show sincerity and appreciation to them. The reason of performing Jerye is to continue filial piety towards ancestors.

Koreans believe that when people die, their spirits do not immediately depart; they stay with their descendants for four generations. During this period, the deceased are still regarded as family members and Koreans reaffirm the relationship between ancestors and descendants through charye on special days like Seollal (Lunar New Year’s Day) and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving Day) as well as on the anniversary of the ancestor’s passing (kije). Both the kije and charye involve the preparation of special foods – the appearance of the food being as important as the quality and taste. Although certain elements vary from region to region, and family to family, the basic food arrangements are duplicated in households across the nation.

Charye honors all ancestors for four generations back. It is normally performed on Seollal or Chuseok morning, with some families also performing it on Hansik and Dano.

Gijesa is a memorial service which is held on the anniversary of the ancestor's death every year and is celebrated by families as a private ceremony. For such occasions, the women of the family traditionally prepare an elaborate set of dishes, including tteok, jeon, jeok, and so forth.

Memorial services that are performed in front of tombs are called "seongmyo".
Myosa are performed at the tomb site in the 10th lunar month, conducted in memory of old ancestors (of five or more generations).

The kije, however, is traditionally performed at midnight on the even of the ancestor’s death, although these days, most families conduct the ceremony earlier in the evening. Only one ancestor or ancestral couple is honored in the kije.

Every year, family members worship their ancestors on the anniversaries of their death. Rice cakes must be prepared for this ceremony. Musokhaenguiwha deokui p'ungsok (Exorcisms) Musokhaengui is an exorcism executed by a shaman to expel ghosts and evils, wish for fortunes, and give blessings. Rice cake plays an important role to appease ghosts. Chungp'yeon, kyemyeondeok, geomyeondeok, and geop'ip'at p'yeon are used in this ceremony.

Seollal ancestral worship

Seollal, (the 1st day of the 1st lunar month) or the official Korean New Year’s Day, falls sometime between late January and mid February. It is the most important of all the traditional Korean holidays. Seollal is typically a family-oriented holiday. Many Koreans return to their home towns to visit their parents and other relatives where they perform the ancestral ritual known as charye. What is charye? Charye is the holding of an ancestor memorial service on festive days, with food and wine offered in sacrifice to the ancestral tablet. One important thing to remember about the tteok to be used for the charye on Seollal, is that the colour of the rice cake should preferably be white and those colourful ones should be avoided altogether.

Saebae Korean Net

The entire family would gather on that day dressed in their Hanbok. And after the charye ceremonies children will perform Saebae, and wish their parents a happy new year, by performing one deep traditional bow and saying “saehae bok manhi badeuseyo (새해 복 많이 받으세요) which translates to, please receive many blessings in the new year.” Parents typically reward this gesture by giving their children New Year’s money (usually in the form of crisp new notes) and offering words of wisdom, or deokdam.

After performing saebae, seongmyo was next. Seongmyo is a visit to the ancestral graves to bow and inform them of the new year. Seongmyo was a custom that was equal to doing saebae for living people; it was an absolutely necessary act of etiquette for descendants.

Tteokguk -Korea Times

Needless to say, there will be lots of food to savour. On New Year's Day, all Koreans start the day with tteokguk (sliced rice cake soup), and wish for health, happiness and good luck. Tteokguk is also called Byeongtang or Byenggang. Byeong means rice cake and tang and gang means soup according to the Chinese characters. According to the book 'ChosunSangsikmundap', Seollal, the first day of the New Year, is a new start for all creation, and people started eating tteokguk made from 'white rice' to emphasize the day's pure and solemn nature. Shaped into round sticks, the Garae-tteok used for Tteokguk symbolizes long life. When sliced the rounded pieces look like the shape of coins, bringing prosperity. Tteokguk is a special and meaningful dish symbolizing the wishes for long life and prosperity, and a pure and solemn mind for a new start. Cheomsebyeong is another name of Tteokguk. Cheom means adding and se means age. Thus eating a bowl of Tteokguk on New Year's Day means that you have grown a year older. So people sometimes ask "How many bowls of Tteokguk have you eaten "instead of "How old are you?"

Jeongwol means the first month of the year and is the time when people plan for the year and would have their fortune of the year told. It was customary to attempt to foretell one's future or how good or bad the harvest for the year would be. Particularly, tojeongbigyeol was very popular among the common people because of its monthly explanation of fortune and its high accuracy.
Jeongwoldaeboreum is an important and meaningful day of the Korean annual customs, so it is specially referred to as Daeboreum.

Daeboreum, the first full moon of the year, is celebrated on the 15th day of the 1st lunar month. During this holiday, farmers and fishermen pray for a bountiful harvest and catch, and ordinary households express a yearning for a fortuitous year and the prevention of bad luck by preparing special dishes of seasonal vegetables.

Daeboreum 01
In olden times, on the night before Daeboreum, the farmers would burn the dry grass on the ridges between the rice fields. Charcoal fires would blaze in cans, through which holes were pierced, that were placed along the rice fields. Although the purpose was to get rid of insects that would have destroyed new crops that would soon be planted, children had fun dancing and whirling around the cans.


These days, people hold a special bonfire and on Jeju Island, there’s an annual Daeboreum Festival, complete with bonfire and other activities.
People, in the past and still today, will climb mountains to catch the rising of the first full moon of the lunar year. It was said that the first person to see the moon rise will have good luck all year round.

 Ogokbap (Five-Grain Rice)
Ogokbap, a five-"grain" rice consisting of rice, millet, Indian millet, beans, and red beans, is traditionally served on Daeboreum morning, along with various dried herbs.


Yaksik, made from glutinous rice, chestnuts, pinenuts, honey, sauce, and sesame oil is one of the days’ special treats. People also get to eat Wonsobyeong (rice cake balls) on this day. In those days Yaksik was a real treat and not available to everyone because the ingredients were expensive and difficult to get for most. .
Farmers would often share ogokbap with their neighbours in the belief that sharing the food with at least 3 households would bring luck throughout the year. After they ate their ogokbap in the morning, farmers would give some to their cattle, along with wild vegetables. It’s said that if the animals ate the rice first, it would be a prosperous year, but if they went first for the vegetables, it would be a lean year.

In the past, people would crack nuts with their teeth – a ritual, it was said, that would help keep one’s teeth healthy for the year and prevent skin problems such as boils, etc. Needless to say, that is no longer a common Daeboreum practice. However, nuts are still a part of the festivities. 

Chunghwa-cheol is held on the 1st Day of the 2nd Lunar Month. This ritual originated to motivate the slaves at the time of starting the farming. People made moon rice cakes and ate one for each year of their age, especially for slaves. Songpyeon (stuffed, pine-flavoured rice cakes) were also made for this occasion.
Samjinnal, often called Samjiri is famous as a day when migrant swallows return. This is the biggest holiday in spring, and various events and festivals for welcoming spring are performed on that day.

Jindallae (   Jindallae hwajeon

People ate jindallae hwajeon (azalea pan-fried rice cake) which was a type of seasonal food to eat outside and enjoy nature in the Spring. Hwajeon was commonly eaten at hwajeon nori a traditional custom held since the Goryeo dynasty (918-1392), literally meaning "flower cake play". In spring, women went on a picnic carrying with them glutinous rice flour and beoncheol, a thick frying pan near a stream on Samjinnal which falls on the 3rd Day of the 3rd Lunar Month. They plucked azaleas or any available edible flowers at hand where they set up their picnic and made hwajeon with the ingredients. The version made with edible azaleas is called jindallae hwajeon or dugyeon hwajeon and is regarded as the most representative hwajeon.

Hansik, 105 days after Dongji, is one of the four major festive holidays including Seollal, Dano, and Chuseok. The term Hansik is derived from an old custom of not lighting fires, thus eating cold food. It is said that the origin of this holiday goes back to ancient China where the day was made to console Gaechachu, a loyal subject of Jin. Being chased by a treacherous subject, Gaechachu was in hiding at Mount Myun. Knowing Gaechachu's loyalty, Mungong went to find Gaechachu only to return with nothing. Mungong's last attempt to find Gaechachu was by setting fire to the mountain. Yet Gaechachu did not come out and was burned alive. Ever since then people had a custom of eating cold rice to commemorate his death.

On this day, the country holds sacrificial rites at Jongmyo (Royal Shrine) and Neungwon. Ordinary people hold their own memorial services and visit their families' ancestral graves. If the graves are worn out they will lay fresh turf in a custom called Gaesacho. Then, they offer food, fruits, and wine, and finally make bows in front of the tombs.  People also plant trees around the graves.

Ssukdanja   Ssukddeok

Ssukdanja, Ssuktteok (Rice Cake made with Mugwort) are the rice cakes eaten on this day.

Ch'op'ail

Lotus Lantern Festival
Ch'op'ail, Buddha's Birthday, is held on the 8th day of the 4th lunar month. The most typical custom of this day is the merrymaking at the lantern festival. Many people also call this day the Lantern Festival Day.On this day paper lanterns are paraded around the local temple during the day and lit at dusk. Prayers concerning family welfare and Buddha's enlightenment are said throughout the day. The paper lanterns paraded often have prayers written on them.
People make siru-tteok, neutitteok, ssuktteok, jjintteok yangsaek juak (pan-fried rice cake in two colors) and hwajeon) on this day.

On Dano, the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, farmers took a day off from the fields for joint festivities marking the completion of sowing, while women washed their hair in "changpo water" (water boiled with sweet iris ) in the hope of preventing misfortune.

Dano, also called “Surinal” in Korean is believed to be the oldest holiday, which marked the beginning of summer, and is a day to pray for favourable farming weather. Dano was a major holiday in the old days, but interest today has greatly decreased except in a few provinces.

In the past, Koreans on Dano day ate rice cakes named “surichitteok” made with various herbs known to be traditional Dano food. Jeungpyeon (fermented rice cake) was also eaten The Dongguksesigi says, "On Dano, they make rice cake picking some kind of marsh plant called Surichwi in the mountain or make rice cake with mugwort." Since the shape of the rice cake looks like a wheel, this holiday is named as 'Suritnal'.

Scenery on Dano Day by Shin Yun Bok

On Dano, women swung on swings (Geunettwigi), while men wrestled in traditional Korean style ssireum. In the picture titled 'Danopungjeong (Elegance of Dano)' by the famous artist Sin, Yun-bok, of theJoseon period, it showed the women in Hanbok rising up to the sky with their skirts blowing in the wind. There was such a scene in the drama “Painter of the Wind.”

Yudo (15th Day of 6th Lunar Month)
Early in the morning on this day, people prepared noodles, rice cakes, and fruits to worship their ancestors. In farming communities, people also had a ceremony to wish for a good harvest. The rice cakes prepared for the ceremony included sanghwabyeong (made with flour mixed with alcohol) and milcheonbyeong (made with flour and wrapped with fried vegetables).
Hwajeon and tteok sudan (sweet cake) are also eaten on this day.

Chilseok is on the 7th day of the 7th lunar month. Traditionally, this is the day when a special ceremony is held for the stars that symbolize the annual encounter of the Gyeonu and Jiknyeo planets placed on each end of the galaxy. According to myths, Gyeonu and Jiknyeo's love for each other brought the anger of the King of Heaven and therefore met once a year the night before Chilseok across the galaxy. Crows and magpies are said to have gathered to form a bridge for the two lovers' reunion, and this bridge was called the Ojakgyo.

wheat-flour noodles

During Chilseok, it is tradition to eat wheat-flour noodles and grilled wheat cake. Chilseok is known as the last period to have a chance of enjoying wheat based foods, since the cold winds expected after Chilseok ruin the good scent of wheat. Therefore these dishes are a must for the dinner table. People also used to eat wheat pancake called milijeonbyeong, and sirutteok sesame rice cake, milseolgi (white rice cake) and juak (pan-fried rice cake).

The 15th day of the Seventh Moon is called Baekjung or Jungwon. Various fruits and vegetables are abundant during this time. Baekjung means serving 100 different things on the table for a memorial service. On the farmland, a ceremonial feast was prepared for the laborers in recognition of their work so they took a day off to enjoy themselves.

Buddhist temples regard it as the second most important holiday after Buddha’s Birthday.

Mixed rice cake (seoktanbyeong) is served on this day.

Chuseok, the autumnal full moon day that falls on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, is probably the most anticipated festive day for modern Koreans. It is also called Hangawi (Harvest Moon Festival) or Jungchujeol, which stands for mid-autumn day. In celebration of the good harvest, Koreans visit their ancestral hometowns and share a feast of Korean traditional food. Family members get together, pay tribute to their ancestors, and visit ancestral graves. Bulcho is the tradition of cutting the weeds around one's ancestral graves during Chuseok. Paying a visit to one's ancestral graves is considered as a duty towards one's ancestors.

Chuseok memorial services jpg

On the morning of Chuseok Day, Songpyeon  and food prepared with the year’s fresh harvest are arranged to give thanks to ancestors through Charye (ancestor memorial service). The only thing different from the memorial rites held during Seollal and that held in Chuseok, is that during Chuseok people eat rice instead of rice cake soup.

Songpyeon

One of the dishes prepared for this day that cannot go unmentioned is songpyeon (rice cake). Inside songpyeon, freshly harvested sesame seeds, beans, redbeans, chestnuts, or Chinese dates are stuffed. Then the songpyeon is steamed over pine needles.

Making songpyeon Korean NetOn the night before Chuseok, all the family members sat around and made songpyeon, looking at the full moon. Particularly, single men and women tried their best to make songpyeon as pretty as possible. That was because one was believed to be able to meet a good-looking spouse only if one was able to make good-looking songpyeon.

Beolcho

Chuseok visit ancestral graves

Ganggangsullae, a circle dance
After Charye, families visit their ancestors’ graves and engage in Beolcho, where weeds around the burial grounds are removed. As the night nears, families and friends enjoy the beautiful view of the full harvest moon and play folk games such as Ganggangsullae (Korean circle dance), sonori (cow play), geobuknori (turtle play), and ssireum (Korean wrestling) were performed, creating a lively atmosphere.

Our next festival is Jungyangjeol  celebrated on the 9th day of the 9th lunar month. It is a day for celebrating autumn with poetry and painting, composing poetry, enjoying nature. People went In groups to the mountains or entered valleys to see the foliage, and enjoyed the day by eating food and drinking wine. On Junggu, people cooked gukhwajeon, (chrysanthemum pancakes)or made wine with mums.

If Samjinnal in spring, heralded the return of the migrant swallows then Jungyangjeol is the time for the migrant sparrows to leave again.

Know what? I just realized something, don’t know whether you observed it or not. In South Korea, pancakes are traditionally eaten on three festival days: Samjinnal (3rd day of 3rd lunar month), Chilseok (7th day  of 7th lunar month), and Jungyangjeol (9th day of 9th lunar month).

And now we come to the last festival of the year, Dongji, which is celebrated around 22nd December. Dongji (the winter solstice) is the longest night and shortest day of the year. Meaning "a day that ushers in the following year," Dongji was also called ase or "little New Year's Day." At the homes of commoners, porridge was cooked using red beans. Glutinous rice powder was rolled into small balls to be added to the porridge, which is served with honey. Festive foods for Dongji included red bean porridge, jeonyak (a mixture of herbs, honey, sugar and pepper), sikhye (a sweet dessert made with rice), gyeongdan (rice cake balls), sujeonggwa (a fruit punch) and dongchimi (water kimchi).and redbean soup with rice dumplings (patjuk). Patjuk also goes on the table for the memorial service and is often thrown onto the door as a gesture to drive away misfortunes." On Dongji, each family make patjuk to eat, and this is made by the process of mashing boiled red-beans or sieving them and making pieces of glutinous rice cake with the water the red-beans are boiled in. This rice cake is called 'Saealsim'. The finished patjuk is put in the sanctuary first, and after putting it on some corners of the house, the members of the family gather at a place and get to eat it. Nowadays, Koreans eat a bowl of red bean porridge to ward off evil spirits.
Jilsiru tteok 01  Jilsiru tteok

Jilsiru lunch boxes

So that’s it for today and if you’re craving for some tteok why don’t you pop down to the main JILSIRU Café at the Tteok Museum in Jongno-gu or its branch in Insadong. Just take a look, aren’t they tempting?

Special thanks and appreciation to the following:
Photos and articles © courtesy:


Korea Agro-Fisheries Trade
Korea Times

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