Wednesday, August 19, 2009

The UNESCO World Cultural Heritages in Seoul

After all the hiking and climbing in the mountains looking for the best spots for viewing Autumn leaves I think we should tone down a bit and participate in less active activities for the next few days. So how about a few lessons in history and perhaps visit a palace or two in downtown Seoul. I just love that ring of ‘downtown Seoul’. I can imagine myself popping down to a shopping mall or catching a movie at one of the theatres in downtown Seoul but to pop down to a palace in downtown Seoul is quite unbelievable. Believe it or not, here in Seoul, you can take your pick from five of them, the Changdeokgung Palace, (a UNESCO World Heritage) Deoksugung Palace, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Gyeonghuigung or Changgyeonggung Palace and Unhyeongung (small palace). Seoulites should consider themselves very lucky to have so many historical sites just a ‘doorstep away’ so to speak. I know I could stay in Seoul forever because there’s everything there to interest me for a lifetime. I love the people, I love the culture, the customs and traditions, I love the food, I love the Hanbok, I love the museums, art galleries, palaces and Folk Villages and best of all I love the shopping! Oh I forgot about the Hallyu, count that in too. I think I recognize the present CEO of KTO, Mr. Charm Lee in a few Korean dramas I’ve seen. Anyone can confirm this?
Korea is so steeped in history, how lucky the Koreans are to be in the midst of it all.. Even UNESCO has designated a few of Korea’s treasures in its World Heritage List, nine to be exact of which three are in Seoul. Following is a full list of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in South Korea:-
Cultural
• Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon, the Depositories for the Tripitaka
Koreana Woodblocks (1995)
• Jongmyo Shrine (1995)
• Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple (1995)
• Hwaseong Fortress (1997)
• Changdeokgung Palace Complex (1997)
• Gochang, Hwasun and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites (2000)
• Gyeongju Historic Areas (2000)
• Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (2009)
Natural
• Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes (2007)
These are the tangibles but what about the intangibles? What are intangibles? Intangible culture is just the opposite of culture which is tangible or touchable. Intangible culture includes song, music, drama, skills, crafts, and the other parts of culture that can be recorded but cannot be touched and interacted with, without a vehicle for the culture. Up to date there are 119 listed under this category. . A few examples of the important intangible cultural properties are Jongmyo jeryeak, the ancient music and dance performed at the Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine in Seoul; Jongmyo jerye, the Jongmyo royal ancestral memorial ceremony, Joseon wangjo gungjung eumsik, the royal culinary art of the Joseon Dynasty, Pansori, a song and narration performed by one singer accompanied by one drummer, Munbaeju or distilled liquor, Daegeum sanjo or solo performance of the daegeum (bamboo transverse flute), Maedeup, decorative knot making, Bongsan talchum, masked dance drama handed down from the Bongsan region, Hwanghae Province and Chiljang , or lacquer work.
Today I’m going to show you around the three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Seoul, namely the the Jongmyo Shrine, Changdeokgung Palace. and the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty .
Jongmyo Royal Shrine was built in 1394, when the Joseon Dynasty moved their capital from Gaeseong to Hanyang (the present Seoul), but was burnt to the ground during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. The reconstruction was planned in 1604 and completed in 1608, the 1st year of Gwanghaegun (1608-1623).
It is the oldest and most authentic of the Confucian royal shrines to have been preserved. Dedicated to the forefathers of the Choson dynasty (1392 -1910), the shrine has existed in its present form since the 16th century and houses tablets bearing the teachings of members of the former royal family. The royal family of the Joseon Dynasty paid homage to their forefathers in the time-honored Confucian tradition. This sedate shrine of beautiful architectural simplicity is appreciated as an invaluable cultural inheritance and was registered on UNESCO's World Cultural Heritage List in 1995.
Jongmyo Shrine is made up of Jeongjeon (the main hall), Yeongnyeongjeon (the Hall of Eternal Peace), and auxiliary facilities. Jeongjeon, with its attached cloister, is said to have been the longest building in Asia. It enshrines the memorial tablets of greatly honored kings and their queens, today containing 19 memorial tablets of kings and 30 tablets of their queens in 19 spirit chambers. A tour of this place without the ritual ceremonies will take less than half an hour.
In the past the Royal Ancestral Rites were held on the first full moon of each season with a final ceremony held on the last full moon of the year. However, these days the ceremony is performed only once a year on the first Sunday in May.
.Jongmyo Jerye, the royal ancestral rite, is certainly a historical rarity in the world, with 500-year old formalities for ancestral worship set in 1462. It keeps intact the original procedures for the offering of sacrificial gifts of food and drink in authentic ritual utensils, with royal descendents and participants costumed by rank, as well as ritual dance and music ensembles. During the ceremony the priests, dressed in ritual costumes, make offerings of food and wine to the spirits of the ancestors. Music is played to accompany the rituals on traditional instruments, and dances are performed representing the forces of Yin and Yang. The Jeongjeon Hall, the main hall of the Jongmyo Shrine, is where almost all of the kings and queens of the Joseon dynasty have been enshrined, and rituals will be held there.A grand procession, known as the Eogahaengnyeol Parade, will take place from Gyeongbokgung Palace, proceeding along Jongno (one of the main streets in Seoul), before arriving at the Jongmyo Royal Shrine. The parade and the ritual ceremonies are a spectacular sight and provide a fascinating glimpse of Korea’s cultural heritage. Jongmyo Jere and Jongmyo Jereak were designated intangible cultural assets in 2001


Our next stop, Changdeokgung Palace, was one of Korea's five main palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910.) Changdeokgung was built in the 5th year (1405) of the reign of King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty, as a separate palace to Gyeongbokgung, the original main palace of the dynasty. Located to the east of Gyeongbokgung, it has also been called Donggwol, the east palace. Changdeokgung is the most representative example of the Joseon era palace architecture. It was the principal palace for many of the Joseon kings, and is the best preserved among the five remaining royal Joseon palaces


Overall, Changdeokgung is divided into the administrative quarters, the residential quarters and a rear garden. The existing administrative quarters encompass Donhwamun, the front gate, which is the oldest existing palace structure (1412), Injeongjeon, the throne hall, and Seonjeongjeon, the administrative hall. The residential quarters include Huijeongdang and Daejojeon, the king's and queen's bedchambers, the royal kitchen, the infirmary and other annexes. The rear garden has exquisite pavilions, the court archives, a library and lotus ponds. Changdeokgung’s rear garden was constructed during the reign of Taejong, and has served as a resting area for the royal family members. The garden was also called Bukwon and Geumwon, but after Kojong became king, he renamed it Biwon. The garden was kept as natural as possible and human hands were only used when absolutely necessary. Buyongjeong, Buyongji, Juhabru, Eosumun, Yeonghwadang, Bullomun, Aeryeonjeong, and Yeongyeongdang are some of the many pavilions and fountains that occupy the gardens. The most beautiful time to see the garden is during the fall when the autumn foliage is at its prime and the leaves start to fall
Changdeokgung is well harmonised with its natural backdrop of hilly terrain and lush forests. The palace's magnificent halls, pavilions, and rear garden are laid out in such a way that they compliment each other as regards to the architecture and landscaping.
Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung were burned down during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. Changdeokgung was reconstructed in 1609 and served as the royal seat for 300 years until the reconstruction of Gyeongbokgung at the end of the Joseon Dynasty. ).The palace is filled with cultural assets such as Injeongjeon Hall, Daejojeon Hall, Seonjeongjeon Hall and Nakseonjae to visit.



Crossing the threshold of Donhwamun the front gate of Changdeokgung, you will come up to Geumcheongyo, the oldest stone bridge in Seoul, built in 1411. Architects from the Joseon period thought that the stream, which used to flow through the palace was bringing positive energy. But now the stream is all dried up, It is said that whoever passes under Bullomun gate will not grow old.
The World Cultural Heritage Committee designated Changdeokgung Palace as a World Cultural Heritage in December of 1997.


And now, for our final destination, the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. The Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (Republic of Korea), built over five centuries, from 1408 to 1966 form a collection of 40 tombs scattered over 18 locations. Spots of outstanding natural beauty were chosen for the tombs which typically have their back protected by a hill as they face south toward water and, ideally, layers of mountain ridges in the distance. Alongside the burial area, the royal tombs feature a ceremonial area and an entrance. In addition to the burial mounds, associated buildings that are an integral part of the tombs include a T-shaped wooden shrine, a shed for stele, a royal kitchen and a guards’ house, a red-spiked gate and the tomb keeper’s house. The grounds are adorned on the outside with a range of stone objects including figures of people and animals. The tombs all have similar shapes, and the stone structures and buildings also follow certain styles.
The organization of the royal tomb sites can be broken down into three parts:
● The part around the Jeongjagak, which is the meeting point between the dead and the living (the area outside Hongsalmun Gate is the space for the living);
● The area just past the gate, which contains the Jeongjagak shrine, the Subokbang, and the Suragan buildings. This is a space of the earthly and the holy as this is where the spirits of the kings and queens meet with their worshipers;
● The sacred ground of the grave mound, the wall, and the stone structures.
Although most of the Joseon Dynasty’s Royal Tombs are located outside Seoul, eight of them can be found in Seoul. Seonjeongneung, located in downtown Seoul in the heart of Seoul’s busy Gangnam District in Samneung Park, comprises of the Seonneung Royal Tomb and the Jeongneung Royal Tomb. Samneung which means “three royal tombs,” is exactly what it is, the three royal tombs of two Korean kings and a queen.
King Seongjong and his third wife, Queen Jeonghyeon were buried in Seolleung (the west side of the park) in separate tombs. Seongjong was Joseon’s ninth king, having ascended the throne at the early age of 13. His reign is remembered as a period of peace and prosperity.
Both the king and queen’s tombs followed the standard Confucian principles. Typically set in the middle of a hill facing southward, ideally toward water and mountains, a burial mound is protected by stone figures of people and animals and enclosed by a “C”-shaped wall. Each element was designed to direct energy towards the burial chamber.


A significant difference between the king and queen’s tombs, however, is the T-shaped wooden shrine that designates a king’s resting place. Built at the end of a long stone pathway marked with a decorative red gate, a small shed protects a stone stele.The park is basically a family burial plot, because on the east side you’ll find Jeongneung the tomb of King Jungjong second son of King Seongjong and first son of Queen Jeonghyeon. Joseon’s eleventh monarch came to power after his half-brother was dethroned in a coup. His 38-year reign was marked by political reform.
Jungjong was not originally interred here, but moved to Samneung by his third consort, Queen Munjeong. She felt the site was more propitious, although ancient records show that the area was flooded. But sad to say she was never buried beside him although it was her dearest wish and today her tomb is somewhere else a few kilometers away.
The area in-between the tombs is covered by forest with s few walking trails and benches here and there. If you follow one of the trails you might happen upon Jaesil a traditional house used by priests to prepare the sacrificial rites for the deceased kings.


If you have time I would like to suggest that you pay a visit to the Gyeongbokgung Palace although it's not a UNESCO World Heritage because it is arguably the most beautiful and grandest of all the five palaces. The premises were destroyed by fire at the time of the Japan's occupation of Korea during 1592-1598. However, all of the palace's 7,700 rooms were later restored during the reign of King Gojong (1852~1919). Remarkably, the most representative edifices of the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeonghoe-ru Pavilion and Hyangwonjeong Pond are still relatively intact. The National Palace Museum of Korea is located south of Heungnyemun Gate, and the National Folk Museum is located east within Hyangwonjeong.
Gyeongbokgung Palace was originally constructed in 1395 under the reign of King Taejo. Also called Northern Palace because of its location, Gyeongbokgung is Seoul's most prominent palace. Although situated in the middle of the city, once inside the gates of the palace, you quickly forget the hustle and bustle of city life. What is particularly appealing about walking through the palace grounds is that there’s lots of greenery, a sight which is becoming a rarity in downtown Seoul these days.
The Royal Guard Changing Ceremonies is something special that you can watch at the Gyeongbokgung Palace. The Royal Guard-Changing Ceremony is a great opportunity to experience a rare traditional scene in Korea. The guards’ splendid costumes, with their brilliant primary colors, are a real pleasure to see. So don/t forget your cameras.


A walk through the palace grounds will bring you to Hyangwonjeong and Geongcheonggung, perhaps one of the most photographed sites in Seoul. which served as a separate palace for King Gojong and his consort, and is considered a palace within a palace. It is here that the Empress Myeongsong was assassinated in 1895.
Constructed in 1456, Hyangwonji pond can be found in the rear garden of Gyeongbokgung palace. The existing pond was reconstructed in 1873, and the hexagonal pavilion of Hyangwonjeong and Chuihyanggyo bridge were built then. Waterweeds can be found there, along with carp swimming in the pond; a variety of trees, including zelkova, Chinese juniper, maple, pine, oak and pear also surround it. The pond is at its most spectacular when Mt.Bugaksan, the pavilion and the wooden bridge are all reflected on the pond’s surface. Further north is the Jibokjae — an assemblage of two buildings, Hyeopgildang Pavilion and Parujeong Pavilion, that were originally built in the precincts of Changdeokgung and then moved to Gyeongbokgung in 1888, when King Gojong relocated his official residence.
Jibokgae was used as a library and a reception hall to receive foreign envoys, and all three buildings are connected by a raised corridor. Next is Taewonjeon, the buildings used for royal funerals and ancestral rites, Another area which you’ll pass is the Soy Sauce Jar Terrace, The area next to it which is undergoing restoration is Hamhwadong and Jipgyeongdang. Hamhwadong was the living quarters for the queen and included several more buildings. Only two buildings remain today. Donggung and vicinity are located. This is where the crown prince and princess lived, and the excavated site includes a site where meals for the kings were prepared.
The walk ends with Geunjeongjeon, the main throne hall of Gyeongbokgung. The main hall of Gyeongbokgung was the venue where the king attended to affairs of the state or grand celebrations. There are 12 pairs of stone markers situated in front of the main hall, each bearing the rank of court officials.
Enjoy the video of Gyeongbokgung I've included. I'm sure you'll agree with me when I say it's a beautiful palace. Also don't forget to visit the National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum because it's already included in your ticket to Gyeongbokgung
See you again.soon

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