This will be the first of a series I shall be writing on Andong because there’s so much to write about it, but I promise you that it won’t be anything boring. If, like me, you are a lover of historical Korean movies/dramas set in the Joseon Dynasty like Untold Scandal, Daejanggeum, Hwang Jini, Damo, Painter of the Wind and The King and the Clown, then you should visit Andong. It’s a place worth visiting to recapture the old world charm of Korea. It also has the reputation of being the best preserved ancient metropolitan city. You can still find many of the homes of the noble class in Andong today. Though the die-hard Confucians are not around any more, Andong is one of the few places in the world where Confucian practices are still directly being passed down to descendents to this day, as well as being a centre of education. Its current inhabitants are the direct descendents of those who actually occupied the houses in the Joseon Dynasty era. Because of its highly historical value, the village itself is often being referred to as a ‘roofless museum’.
Not only is Andong noted for its beauty, it has also been dubbed the heartland of Korea's Confucian culture and the "cradle of learning", housing the largest number of Confucian academies/schools. During the Joseon Dynasty, Andong attracted many Confucian scholars which led it to become the pioneer city in Confucian thoughts. It was to become the headquarters of the development of Confucianism. So it was only natural that Andong became home to the noble class. Today, there are 26 of these academies/schools still standing in Andong, where the traditional bi-annual rituals are still being showcased every spring and summer. The most significant of the academies is the Dosan Confucian Academy, which inherits the spirit and lifestyle of the noble class from the Joseon Dynasty, who believed that justice and good manners were the key factors in life. Now I know why the Koreans are so well mannered.
During the Joseon period, Korea boasted of a rigidly hierarchical and male dominated social structure. Set in this period, "Jewel in the Palace" is based on a true story about a legendary girl (Jang-Geum) who was the first woman to become the supreme royal physician of her time. Despite being from a poor family background in the male dominated Joseon society, Jang-Geum overcame a lot of social discriminations, to earn herself the title of royal cook, then royal physician, and finally the king’s physician. She was even given the title of "The Great Jang-Geum" by the king himself. It was the first time a woman had stepped into this male dominated social class and she was not even of noble birth. What a great achievement that was and a boost to womankind. With this drama her name will be remembered for a long, long time. When I watched this drama I felt like I was actually having a class in history as well as cookery. This is one of the best Korean dramas I have ever seen.
Andong made history when Queen Elizibeth II of Great Britain visited it in 1999. In fact she spent her 73rd birthday there, visiting such places as Hahoe Village, Dosan Confucian School, Byeongsan Confucian School, Bongjeongsa Temple, Icheon-dong Soekbulsang (engraved Buddha on granite), Sinse-dong Chilcheeung Jeontap (7 story pagoda), Dongbu-dong Ocheung Jeontap (5 story pagoda), Ocheon relic’s site, Andong Folk Village, and the Andong Soju Museum. I shall be taking you to these places as well but with some additional destinations like the Jirye Art Village, the Andong Folk Museum, Goseong Lee head family Estate, Imcheonggak Pavillion, Ocheon Relics Site(village) and the Hahoe Mask Museum.
Before we begin on our tour, I would like to tell you something about the accommodation here in Andong. There are no major hotels in Andong but there are many traditional hanok guest houses available throughout the area. The Hahoe Village, the Jirye Art Village, Jeonju Ryussi-musiljongtaek (Ryu noble family’s estate) and many other guest houses are great places to experience a unique lodging experience and to sample the true essence of Korea’s traditional lifestyles.
Gotaek (an ancient traditional Korean House) originated from the Joseon Dynasty. At that time, there were two kinds of houses which were based on one’s social class: Giwa-jip (tile-roofed house) and Choga (straw-roofed house). Giwa-Jip was a house occupied primarily by the Yangban upper class, the powerful nobilities of the times, while Choga was a house used by the common people. Although Gotaek preserves original features of an old house, most of the toilet and shower facilities have been renovated into modern- styled ones for tourists’ convenience. Toilet and shower facilities are offered in a modern Western style, similar to those offered in a city accommodation. However, it does not provide toiletries as hotels do, therefore you must bring your own toiletries such as towel, tooth brush, hair shampoo with you.
But if you prefer there are also many well-kept motels, inns and hotels near the Andong Train Station and the Andong Intercity Bus Terminal. Particularly popular are the privately owned inns called Hanok minbak open during the peak season. In general, a small room for 2 to 3 persons will cost around ￦30,000 and a larger room for 4 persons, about ￦50,000 (price based on low season). During the festival season it’ll go up slightly. Most minbaks also offer food and drinks at reasonable prices.
A popular destination, and perhaps the most famous one, is Andong's Hahoe Folk Village. The village was used by the Pungsan Ryu clan and has been preserved since the Joseon Dynasty. The village remains as it was in the Joseon Dynasty and the descendants of Joseon's natural law scholar, Seoae Ryu Seong-ryeong, are still staying there. There are 176 families in the village and they are known as the group village of the Pungsan Ryu family. There are houses designated as National treasures, such as Yangjindang and Chunghyodang. Other inhabitants include the Ahn clansmen from Gwangju and the Heos from Gimhae.
Three sides of Hahoe Village are surrounded by the Nakdong River. Because the river swirls around the village, the village is named Hahoe, and is also called the spinning river village. Because the village is surrounded by mountains and water, it has never been invaded. This is the reason why these houses still remain in their original structures. Dirt roads as well as rough fences and traditional tiled houses make one feel as through they have gone back in time.
A little tip for your visit to Andong. Try to visit the Samshin-dang area, home to a 600-year-old zelkova tree. There is a local belief that mistreating this tree can bring misfortune. However visitors can write a wish on a piece of paper and hang it from one of the strings that surround the tree for good luck. I know what I’ll wish for. I wish that I can make many, many more trips to Andong again.
Andong Hanji is located at the entrance to Hahoe Village. It’s where the traditional Korean paper is manufactured. Approximately 60 different types of paper are manufactured here including drawing paper, Korean calligraphy paper, general drawing paper, window paper, Jungji paper, Unyongji paper, Piji paper for wallpaper, Misarasi unyongji paper, Multiple-layered Korean Paper, floor paper, book paper, embossed paper for premium interiors,. colored Korean paper used to make Korean paper crafts, and gift wrapping paper.
The Hahoe Mask Museum, also near the entrance to Andong Hahoe Village, is another popular tourist site in Andong. However I shall not be writing about it now as I shall be devoting a whole chapter on masks and mask dances later on. So I shall skip the mask museum and go to our next destination the Byeongsan Seowon (Confucian school),
Byeongsan Seowon is a Confucian school that was established by esteemed Confucian scholars to pay tribute to the memory of Ryu Seongryong who was well-respected for his writings and personality. His mortuary tablet is enshrined at this school. In the eighteen sixties Confucian schools enjoyed much freedom under the Joseon rule, students and scholars of the school were exempt from taxation and other expenses. Byeongsan Seowon was one of 47 places in all of Korea and 2 in Andong not destroyed during the rule of Daewongun. The Nakdong River is situated just in front of this school. Originally called Pungak Seodang, this school was relocated here from Pungsan-Hyeon in the reign of King Seonjo(1572) by Ryu Seongryong to train disciples.
Ogyeonjeongsa House located at the foot of Buyongdae Cliff in Andong’s Hahoe Village, was built by Ryu Seong-yong, a minister during the Joseon period. The construction started in 1576 and was completed in 1586. After the end of the Imjinwaeran (the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592), war memoirs called ‘Jingbirok’ were written here. To get to Ogyeonjeongsa House, you will need to cross the river by ferry. Even though the house is not grand, you can enjoy the beauty of a traditional Korean house set amidst the natural beauty of the surrounding cliffs, river, and forest.
Here are the rates for a Hanok Stay for an Old Traditional House Experience at Ogyeonjeongsa House
- Sesimjae School
This private school has a Gamrokheon wooden floor in the middle with adjacent rooms on both sides.
Sesimjae : for 4 people, 2 rooms, Gamnokheonmaru floor - Sesimjae 120,000~150,000 won
- Wolnakjae House
Wolnakjae means ‘waiting for a friend.’ - Wollakjae : for 8 people, 1 room, Aeoheonmaru floor
Wollakjae 160,000~200,000 won
Breakfast is served.
Lastly a little something about the food you’ll find here in Andong so that you won’t go hungry. The famous culinary delights include heotjesatbap (this dish originates from the custom of using vegetables, meat, and seafood dishes left from memorial services to make a uniquely Andong-style bibimbap); Andong gan godeungeo and pungsan kimchi (this kimchi is spiced with locally grown and processed red pepper powder and natural mineral water); Andong jjimdak (spicy chicken braised with potatoes, leeks, and sweet potato noodles, geonjinguksu (noodles), kalguksu (hand-made noodle soup), Andong sikhye (a beverage made from steamed glutinous rice combined with radish, red pepper powder, and ginger juice mixed with malt water and fermented to give it a sweet, pungent taste.); A popular product of the region is Andong soju (Korean alcohol).
If Andong’s local specialties do not suit your taste buds, then you can always head for the “street of foods” featuring lots of popular eateries. From Andong Bus Terminal, it is about 20 meters toward the downtown area. Here you can enjoy some fast food at Pizza Hut or Lotteria. Bon Appetit! Until next time then.
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