Discovering Gyeongsangbuk-do – Yeongju-si

Just take a look at the picture on the homepage of Yeongju, it’s just breathtaking. This picture made me want to go there and see this place, so shall we make it our next destination? Yeongju looks so quiet, peaceful and undisturbed, just the ideal place to relax and take in all its beauty. Here’s where the past and the present seem to coexist in perfect harmony.

The Magpie, which symbolizes pleasure and good luck in the bright future, has been chosen as the national bird of Yeongju. For flowers it’s the Royal Azalea which symbolizes collaboration, sympathy, and the devoted love of the local people. And as for trees it’s the Gingko Tree which is the tree of longevity and fertility, and which symbolizes development and prosperity. Then there’s the cute little mascot named Bachelor Yeongju that symbolizes dynamic and energetic Yeongju that always moves forward.

Yeongju is blessed with the natural beauty of Mt. Sobaeksan and dozens of valleys. It is located in an area that serves as the crossroads between the Sobaek and the Taebaek Mountains. It is surrounded by Bonghwa in the east, Yecheon and Andong in the south, Danyang in the province of Chungcheonbuk-do in the west and the county of Yeongwol in the north. The Naeseongcheon Stream runs along the length of the city and is a popular spot for the inhabitants of Yeongju to relax. It’s nice to know where the locals hang out so that we can come and join them for some of the local flavour.

As usual I shall give you an overview of the place first before we do any sightseeing. Don’t be surprised, Yeongju is also said to be the third-largest train station in Korea. For accommodation, there are many motels just west of the train station. It is also an area for Yeoinsuks there. Other accommodation are scattered throughout the northern part of the town, concentrated to the south of the Gongseol market and west of the JungAng Shijang.

"Home Plus" which has 3 levels for all shopping needs, is the largest grocery and department store located down the street from the train station. The street due west from the train station is the Home Mart whereas Dream Mart is a smaller one just south of the Yeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. NongHyup has the Hanaro Mart accessible from the JungAng Shijang and another one just a bit east of that.

Yeongju seems to have more public-market areas for its town size as compared with anywhere else in Korea. South Yeongju has a pretty good sized one; it's just north of the train station. In Yeongju's northern section there is a series of market areas stringing completely across the town. The Yeongju Gongseol Shijang is on the east side with roofs (good for rainy days). To the west, the market snakes out along narrow streets until it meets up with the JungAng Shijang. This runs on for several more blocks west.

You may remember me telling you that the Mungyeong apples come from the south of the Sobaek Mountains, Well, here in Yeongju you have even more apples because Yeongju is nestled in the Sobaek Mountains. You can see small pyramids of apples stacked up all along the streets of Yeongju which are the first things that grab your attention when you arrive in Yeongju.

For food, the Yeongju homepage recommends a few restaurants with the areas and types of food served which is very helpful for the visitor. Best meals to experience in the city include Korean beef barbeques, green-pea jelly and rice, and chicken broth with ginseng.

I have copied it down here for your convenience.

Restaurants

Division	Name	Address	Main menu
Buseoksa Temple Area	Chamiga	Pukji-ri, Buseok-myeon, Yeongju	Mixed rice with various vegetables
Buseoksa Temple Area	Puseoksa Restaurant	Pukji-ri, Buseok-myeon, Yeongju	Mixed rice with various vegetables
Buseoksa Temple Area	Myeongseong Restaurant	Pukji-ri, Buseok-myeon, Yeongju	Mixed rice with various vegetables
Sosu Seowon Area	Huibangjang Inn	Upnae-ri, Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju	Rice with folk jelly
Sosu Seowon Area	Sunhung Folk Jelly	Naejung-ni, Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju	Rice and broth
Sosu Seowon Area	Cheongdari Old House	Naejung-ni, Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju	Rice with vegetables for Korean ritual
Sosu Seowon Area	Sosam Restaurant	Upnae-ri, Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju	Spicy fish soup
Huibangsa Temple (Mt.Sobaek) Area	Hungju Village	Sucheol-li, Punggi-eup, Yeongju	Dinner with various vegetables
Huibangsa Temple (Mt.Sobaek) Area	Chukryeong Chumak	Sucheol-ri, Punggi-eup, Yeongju	Mixed rice with various vegetables
Punggi Area	Pine Tree Restaurant	Seobu-ri, Punggi-eup, Yeongju	Cold noodle
Punggi Area	Seobu Cold Noodle	Seobu-ri, Punggi-eup, Yeongju	Roasted beef
Yeongju Area	Cheongu-Seotbul Garden	Hyucheon 2-dong, Yeongju	Roasted beef
Yeongju Area	Punggi Samgyetang	Hamang-dong, Yeongju	Hot chicken soup

Shall we go sightseeing now? Yeongju takes great pride in its seonbi heritage, and is home to Korea’s first private educational institute, the Sosuseowon Confucian School., which makes it a good starting place for our trip to Yeongju.

This school was built in memory of Yuhyeon Anhyang, one of the greatest Confucian scholars of the Goryo Dynasty. The institute originated from a memorial hall established by Ju Se-bong, who was a governor of Punggi county of Yeongju, during the Goryeo Dynasty It was originally named Baekundongseowon Confucian School but was later changed to Sosuseowon Confucian School, becoming the first legislated private institute of Korea in 1550, dedicated to studies in the advancement of Seongrihak (learning of human nature and natural laws). It is also the first seowan (Confucian academy) to have had national financial support by way of tax exemptions. Because of its historic significance, the seowon escaped destruction during the nationwide closure of Confucian schools in 1871
There is a hall containing the ‘Sosuseowon’ which was written by King Myeongjong and behind the hall are the Jikbangjae, Ilshinjae, Hakgujae and Jirakjae.

In the west, are the bookroom and the Munseonggong Tomb where the portrait of Anhyang (a National Treasure) painted at the end of the Goryeo Dynasty and the Daesungjisung King Munseon’s Jeonjwado (another National Treasure) are enshrined.

The Jibangjae and Ilsinjae halls (used as the working and living areas for the lecturers) underwent some repairs recently so everything looks new. The institute is also the shrine for various relics, including the portrait of Hoeheon, an ancestor of the oriental neo-Confucianism. A museum located next to the seowon area exhibits various items showing the development of Confucianism, and relics from the Bronze Age found in the region.

Sahyeonjeong, or the "Well of the Four Sages", dates from 1545, when Ju Sebung was magistrate of Punggi county. The monument was established to honor An Seok, a man who was famous for his devotion to the education of his four sons in the Goryeo dynasty Ju Sebung is also famous for establishing Sosu Seowon, the first private academy in Korea. In 1636, An Eungchang, a descendent of An Seok, wrote the epitaph now standing by the well. The present monument was constructed in 1821 by An Seongyeon, the magistrate of Andong. The well is located about a kilometer south of Sosu Seowon in the middle of a small farming village.

Any visit to Buseoksa begins with the hike to the temple itself. The path to the complex is preceded by a series of 108 stone steps between the Cheonwangmun gate and the Anyangmun gate. The number 108 is significant. According to Buddhism, mankind is afflicted with 108 defilements — gluttony, quarrelsomeness and lecherousness being but three of them. The steps, accordingly, are divided into nine blocks, symbolically representing the nine degrees of rebirth of Pure Land Buddhism. Accordingly, as you ascend the steps, you symbolically shed the 108 defilements and pass through the nine degrees of rebirth until you finally enter Nirvana.

Anyone who has visited Buseoksa Temple remembers its special stonework and stone stairs. This stonework was made by flattening the slopes when Buseoksa Temple was being established. The purpose of this stonework was to compact the land to lay foundation for the temple structure, but the stonework with stairs itself serves as a symbol. It symbolizes the mandala of the three last ways among 16 ways to go to the Heaven. Every visitor to Buseoksa Temple passes the symbolic stairs and stonework to arrive at the Heaven. Another unique characteristic is that the stonework is made with unrefined stone. Carefully selected natural stones are stacked together to build a concrete structure.Hapumdan is the name of the stairs from Cheonwangmun Gate to Yosache Building and Jungpumdan is the name of the stairs from Yosache to Beomjongru (Bell). Just before you reach the main courtyard, you pass under a wooden gateway/pavilion known as Anyangmun, or “Nirvana Gate.” The last set of three stairs from Beomjongru which leads to the front yard of Muryangsujeon Building is called Sangpumdan.

As you pass through, Nirvana — represented by Muryangsujeon Hall — gradually comes into view. Once you arrive, a most spectacular view awaits you —the countless peaks of the Sobaeksan Mountains.

These posts are stone relics from the Silla Empire. They were erected when Buseoksa Temple was built. It would have held the flags of Hwaeom Order, 1,300 years ago, but there only is a pair of stone posts today. The posts are standing to the left of the path between Iljumun Gate and Cheonwangmun Gate and are 4.8m in height. The posts narrow as they rise and look very strong. The top of the posts are the engravings of slanted two-level arcs. The body has bands of relief and the supporting stones are finished with lotus engravings.

At the heart of this Nirvana world is Muryangsujeon Hall, the main building of the Buseoksa Temple and a National Treasure. The hall, with its simple adornment, presents an effortlessly refined dignity. It is noble yet inviting, an architectural expression of the Western Paradise of Pure Land Buddhism. Appropriately, enshrined in the western end of the hall is a magnificent clay statue of Amitabha Buddha, the Buddha of the Western Paradise. It is the oldest clay statue in Korea and another National Treasure

There’s also a seated statue of Buddha in this hall. What is unique is that Muryangsujeon is facing south but the Buddha is facing east. There are many explanations, but could it be that the statue is facing Seorabeol (the capital) to protect the nation?

In 1916, while repairs on the central Muryangsujeon Hall were being conducted, records were discovered indicating it was last reconstructed in 1376, making it the second oldest wooden building in Korea, and one of only a handful of wooden structures dating from the Goryeo era. The Murangsujeon hall is considered one of the most beautifully built wooden constructions in Korea with beautiful curved lines in its building structure. The great Buddhist Monk, Wonyung, was responsible for the renovations of the Muryangsujeon.

In front of Muryangsujeon Hall is a handsome stone lantern dating from the Unified Silla period. With its finely carved lotus leaf pedestal and Bodhisattva reliefs, it is a masterpiece of Silla art. It is believed that this stone lantern was built when Buseoksa Temple was established. With the beautifully skillful craftsmanship and aesthetics, it is known as the most beautiful stone lantern from the Silla Dynasty. A rectangular stylobate is placed on the compacted foundation and the lotus-shaped covering stone was placed on top of it. Then, an eight-angled stone post is erected to support another lotus stone and an eight-angled firing stone. Four sides of the firing stone have windows and the remaining four sides have the engravings of Bodhisattva. On top of this beautiful firing stone is the eight-angled roof stone. The green moss on the roof stone gives greater value to this traditional stone lantern.

Pagodas are normally erected in front of buildings with the Buddhist statues. However, the 3-story Stone Pagoda of Buseoksa is curiously standing to the east of Muryangsujeon Building. It seems to be related to the direction of the Amitabha inside Muryangsujeon that is facing east. The pagoda was established together with the Buseoksa Temple. It is the typical 3-story stone pagoda from the Silla Unification period. It looks very sturdy and well-built.

About 100m to the northeast of Muryangsujeon Building is Josadang which was the home of monk Uisang and where his portrait is enshrined. The Josadang, is a small hall also built in the late Goryeo era. In front of Josadang is a tree that is protected inside a special fence. This tree is the famous Seonbihwa, which is the tree grown from monk Uisang’s cane. When monk Uisang was leaving for India, he erected the cane on the ground and said, “This cane will lay roots and grow branches and leaves.”
The fence had to be build around it for protection because many people believed that drinking the brewed water of its leaves would help them conceive sons.

According to the congratulatory letter discovered in 1916, it was established in 1377 and preserved beautifully the typical architectural styles of the Goryeo Dynasty. It is a gable-roofed building with three front units, one side unit, and brackets on column heads. The rafters extend from the eaves make the roofing look heavy, but the roofing is actually small and simple.

This is the mural of the Four Great Kings and Bodhisattva. It was drawn onto the inside wall when Josadang was almost complete in 1377. Since then, the mural has been studied to understand the paintings of the Goryeo Dynasty.
When Josadang was disassembled and restored in 1916, the wall was detached and moved to the protection center for preservation. The colors seem to fade over time, but it still exhibits the dignified beauty of Goryeo painting.

If you go up the hill from Josadang you can hear the clear sound of the gong from Jaindang. This Seated Stone Buddha was originally located at the old site of Buseoksa Temple, but was moved to Jaindang. Its two hands are lost, but it still has the face, pedestal, and backlight.
The two statues here have the same style with only slightly different engravings. Thus, they are believed to have been made by the same artist. Overall, the statues are elegant and humane. However, details are rather stiff and rigid. Considering the two arms that are lifted to the chest, it is assumed that they are Vairocanna which was popular in the late 9th Century. Its rigid body, formal wrinkles on the clothes, and elaborately decorated backlight and pedestal with various patterns clearly reflect the characteristics of this period.

Feeling hungry? There are stalls along the way, selling by the cup milky Korean rice wine, or dongdongju, with added ginseng. Like most major Buddhist temples, there are a number of good restaurants near the temple parking lot. The Buseoksa Sikdang does a really good gangodeungeo jeongsik (about 10,000 won a person) rice, soup and plenty of side dishes along with salted mackerel, a regional specialty. You can also try insam mukbap, a mixed rice dish with ginseng and acorn jelly, for 6,000 won per person.

For those wanting to feel more of Mount Sobaek, a hike along Jungnyeong path is a good choice. The path, restored recently, was the main gateway between the southern part of the peninsula and Hanyang (Seoul) during the Joseon period. Although the path is steep, it was popular among scholars and merchants travelling to the capital. It is lined with tall pine trees and diverse wild flowers, which makes the hike a pleasant one. Towards the bottom of the path, apple orchards spread out as far as the eye can see. And if you are lucky, one of the good-natured farmers may hand you an apple or two.

The Sobaeksan National Park, designated as a National Park In i987, is what you might call, a branch of the backbone of Korea, Mt. Taebaeksan. There are many wild flowers and royal azaleas on Birobong Peak and the largest yew tree community is found on the northwest slope (1,200~1,350m above sea level) between Yeonhwabong Peak and Birobong Peak.
The west of Mt. Sobaeksan is steep and streams from the Nakdonggang River flow to the Jukgyaecheon River, which is often used as a hiking course. Following down from Birobong Peak by Jukgyaecheon River is Seokryun Mine, and Choamsa Temple. If you proceed even further, you will get to Seokcheonpokpo Waterfall and Seonghyeolsa Temple. In this valley, there are mountain trouts that can only live in clean water.

A 4km flat path to the southwest from Birobong Peak leads to Yeonhwabong Peak. The National Astronomical Observatory is on the way to the second Yeonhwabong Peak from the 1st Yeonhwabong Peak, and a ridge called Jukryeong is to the south of the mountain. To the east of the second Yeonhwabong Peak, are the Huibangsa Temple and Birosa Temple built in the Silla Dynasty. The Huibangpokpo Waterfall, considered the most beautiful waterfall of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, is at the entrance of Huibangsa Temple. The scenery at Mt. Sobaeksan National Park is simply breathtaking.

The Sobaeksan Oknyeobong Recreational Forest in Dusan-ri Bonghyeon-myeon at the foot of Oknyeobong Peak on Mt. Sobaeksan is a great place to relax and take a rest. There are beautiful trails here to explore. This natural recreation forest have bungalows, a community kitchen, shower rooms, outdoor classrooms, and a designated parking area for visitors at this recreational forest..
The forest enjoys the scenic backdrop of Mt. Sobaeksan. You can also visit the nearby attractions such as the Buseoksa Temple, Sosuseowon Confucian School and Huibang Valley. Located in the northernmost part of Gyeongsangbuk-do, Oknyeobong Recreational Forest has numerous activities and beautiful natural spots. You can take a rest amidst the refreshing air, and enjoy the clean mountain waters. Also, the area offers a great view of Gukmangbong, Birobong, and Dosolbong Peaks; this recreational forest is busiest during the Sobaeksan Royal Azalea Festival.

Another recommended destination is the "Sudo-ri folk village", which sits in the middle of Naeseong stream. There are traditional houses there with people still staying in them. The Mount Sobaek Punggi springs is a good place for soaking those sore feet in, at the end of the hike. Sudo-ri Folk Village is the traditional village that preserves beautiful nature and old homes. Naeseongcheon Village surrounds three sides of the village, making the village look like an island. There is a stable bridge across the river to connect the village to the neighboring one. The village consists of old homes and pavilions. Amongst them are, Haeudang and Manjukjae, (designated Folk Items) beautiful old homes, that exhibit the humble formality of old nobles.

Before I end here, I’d like to tell you about some of the festivals of Yeongju. Just see how beautifully it’s done on the homepage.

The Punggi Ginseng Festival and the Royal Azalea Festival are held simultaneously every October by the Namwoncheon Stream in Punggi-eup. Some of the activities include the Gaesamteo Goyuje, Insamdaeje, the Insam Singing Contest, the Insam Marathon, Ginseng Digging, and an Exhibition.

The Noble Culture Festival is also held every October but at the Yeongju Seonbichon where the main events are Traditional Art Performances, Traditional Experience (Folk Games), etc

The Yeongju Apple Festival is held every October and November in Buseok-myeon, Yeongju. There are competitions like making long peels and apple eating competitions.

What ? We just missed four great festivals! Never mind we’ll come back next year in October.

The Dansan Grape Festival is held every September in Dansan-myeon, Yeongju where you can see how wine is made, and enjoy grapes/grape juice tasting.

The Watermelon Festival is held every July and August in Isan-myeon, Yeongju where the main activities are good harvest ritual, watermelon appraisal, opening, watermelon tasting, watermelon eating competition, fishing, water volleyball, performances, singing contest, camp fire and fireworks.

The Buseoksa Temple Hwaeom Festival is held every September near Buseoksa Temple where the main events are the Academic Seminar, Hwaeom Music Festival, Hwaeom Ritual, Buddhist Art Festival.

Well guess that’s about it for today. See you next time.