Discovering Gyeongsangbuk-do - Uljin-gun

Today we shall still be travelling on mountainous terrain but we shall be visiting a few beaches as well. Uljin is located at the far eastern side of Gyeongsangbuk-do. To the north is the city of Samcheok in Gangwon-do, to the west is the county of Bonghwa, to the southwest is the county of Yeongyang, to the south is the county of Yeongdeok, and to the east is the sea. Uljin is the major tourist attraction located on the shores of the East Sea.

Where there are beaches there’s bound to be fresh seafood and the specialty of Uljin are its snow crabs. There are eight public beaches, the Nagok, Hujeong, Bongpyeong, Mangyang, Deoksin, Giseongmangyang, Gusan and Hupo.

The Hujeong, Bongpyeong, Giseongmangyang and Gusan beaches are well-known for their pine forests.

whereas the Nagok, Mangyang, Deoksin and Hupo beaches for their famous endless silver sands. They say the sunrise at Mangyangjeong is magnificent.

Uljin-gun is made up of 2 eup, 8 myeon:- Uljin-eup, Pyeonghae-eup, Buk-myeon, Giseong-myeon, Geunnam-myeon, Hupo-myeon, Jukbyeon-myeon, Onjeong-myeon, Seo-myeon and Wonnam-myeon. A traditional farming and fishing region, the county and city of Uljin have seen much progress, thanks to its nuclear power plant.

The coastal road from the town of Uljin to Bonghwa twists and turns through Bukyeong Valley, which has some spectacular scenery in all the four seasons. Should you visit the area during high tourist season in the summer (July-Aug), you'll have to pay a small admission fee to the Bukyeong Valley County Park.

Hidden inside the valley at the upper part of the park is Bulyeongsa, the "Buddha Shadow Temple." A well-kept temple on the hillside, It is located in the middle of the Bulyoungsa Valley and has many national treasures and cultural assets. Originally built in the year 651 A.D. by Uisang (its original name was Guryongsa, or "Nine Dragons Temple"), the temple casts a shadow on the lake below which resembles the shape of the Buddha (hence its new name).

The Bulyeongsa three storey stone tower (a provincial Tangible cultural asset ) was built in the year 651 A.D during the reign of Queen Jindeok of the Silla dynasty, when the great monk Euisang established the Bulyoung temple. The stylobate, body and top of the tower are preserved perfectly. The tower is 3.21m high, made of granite block. The stylobate of the tower is divided into two parts: the upper and lower stylobate, and at the front of both parts the side pillars and supporting pillars are embossed. The body of the tower has one covering stone of eaves style for each part and the pillars are also embossed. Four flights of stair are embossed in the covering stone and the head stone consists of the tray stone, load stand and corbel table. This tower was originally located near the Hwang artist's studio, but was moved to the current location in 1977. the upper and lower part of stylobate flat stone, eaves style of the roof and the line of raindrop side shows the typical three storey stone tower of the Silla dynasty. It was designated as a cultural asset by the province government in 1979.

If you continue north, you'll come upon Deokgu Valley, which stretches across Buk-myeon. This valley starts a couple of kilometers from Eungbongsan to Bugu-li and its nuclear power plant. A thick forest, the most beautiful spot in the valley, is home to the Deokgu Hot Spring. The Deokgu spa is the only open air spa in Korea and contains sodium bicarbonate with a PH of 9.09. As a weak alkaline spring, it has high-quality hot water. Thus, bathing in this spring is good for healing neuralgia and dermatitis and for relaxing the muscles after diving, exercising or climbing. It is more effective when you bathe incessantly for 2-3 days

According to legend, in the late Koryeo dynasty, about 650 A.D, a man named Jeon, who was famous for his skill in handling bows and spears was hunting a wild boar with his fellowmen. The wounded animal washed itself in the water and escaped. He and his fellowmen came to the water and found that hot water sprang there naturally. After that, the villagers placed rocks around that spot so as to let the water collect and bathed themselves in the water.

Before this spa was developed as a public resort, patients suffering from dermatitis used to come here to treat their ailments. In 1983, this spa was designated as a spa area and a provincial park and a bath tube was built at the bottom of the valley. Thus, in winter hot water sprang out from the bottom while the mountain was covered with snow. It was very famous then. But then in the summer of 1984, flood waters swept away the bath. Unfortunately, the view of the valley has been ruined because of an unsightly shiny insulated pipe that runs down the valley, carrying the hot water down to the bathhouse. It's popular in the winter as people soak in the 41°C water while surrounded by the snowy landscape. Winter is also a great time to enjoy the local snow crabs while they are in season.

The other oncheon (hot spring) in the area is the Baekam Hot Spring in Onjeong. One of the best known oncheon in the country, the water is about 43°C and has a high concentration of sulfur.

According to legend, in the Silla dynasty, a hunter followed a speared deer. But, it was dark. So, the hunter traced the deer on the next day and found the spot where the deer had lied down. He came to the spot and looked carefully. Then, he realized that hot water was springing out from there. After that, the monks in Baekam temple established spa facilities and let patients bathe in the water. In the Koryo dynasty, the governor of the area ordered the residents to build bath houses with granite blocks and open them to the public.
The Baekam spa was designated as a public resort on 31st December 1979 and more than 1.5 million visitors come to this spa every year. The water contains sulfur. Thus, bathing in this spa is good for treating neuralgia, arthritis and arteriosclerosis. This spa was also designated as a special sightseeing place on 18th January 1997.

While we're here, we might as well stop by the Wolsong-jeong Pavilion, built in 1326, during the Joseon period. The pavilion is located a few kilometers north of Pyeonghae, a small farming community. The pavilion offers great views of the surrounding mountains.

This pavilion was built in 1326, the thirteenth year after king Chungsuk of the Koryo dynasty came to the throne. The pavilion is named Wolsongjeong (moon and pine tree) after its charming scenery. The original pavilion was ruined and it was rebuilt in 1495. But, under the Japanese rule, it was destroyed because it was located at a place of strategic importance. The pavilion was rebuilt with the concrete block in 1969 supported by Geomganghoi, a Korean organization in Japan. But, it was removed because it did not conform with the scenic resort building style. Thus, the pavilion was rebuilt in the current shape and style in 1980.
King Seongjong praised the scenery of this pavilion as "the best pavilion in Korea" and let an artist draw a picture of this scenery. Also, a lot of poets and calligraphers extolled its scenery. If you look at the Ease Sea among the pine trees on the pavilion, you may feel as if you have become a hermit.

The Uljin Confucian temple (a provincial Cultural asset) was originally built in Wolbyeondong in 1484 as the academic institute that taught students Confucianism (Junior high school). In the Koryo dynasty, it was called Hyanghag (Under the control of the central institute, Gukjagam) and Hyanggyo in the Chosun dynasty (under the control of the central institute, Seonggyungwan). Daeseongjeon is the place where Confucianists kept the memorial tablets for saints such as Confucius and performed religious service. Students learned Confucianism in Myeongryundand and resided in Dongjae and Seojae. Those places were also used as the lecture halls. In 1697 this temple was moved to Seongjeodong Goseongri and relocated to its current place in 1872. But, during the Korean war, most of the temple was burnt down except for the Daeseongjeon and Dongjae. The current Myeongryudand was reconstructed in 1979.

The Pyeonghae Confucian temple (a provincial Cultural asset) was originally built at the foot of Mt. Banwol east of Pyeonghae in 1357 as the academic institute that taught students Confucianism (Junior high school). In the Koryo dynasty, it was called Hyanghag (Under the control of the central institute, Gukjagam) and Hyanggyo in the Chosun dynasty (under the control of the central institute, Seonggyungwan). This temple was moved to Songreungdong in 1407 and expanded with the Daeseongjeon in 1470. In 1886 its Daeseongjeon and Myeongreundand were repaired and in 1977 its affiliated building, Taehwaru was reconstructed. Daeseongjeon is the place where Confucianists kept the memorial tablets for saints such as Confucius and performed religious service, and where students learned Confucianism in Myeongryundand. Up till now, a lot of confucianists visit and perform the religious services every spring and fall at this temple.

Also in the county is Mangyang-jeong, a pavilion originally built at the foot of Hyunjongsan in 1858. Heeho Lee, the reeve of Uljin at the time, and Hagyoung Lim moved the pavilion to the current site and it was expanded in 1958. Since the pavilion has a beautiful scenery with the grand mountains reaching the East Sea and the endless coastline having silver sands and foams, it was named Mangyangjeong (boundless ocean). At the front of the pavilion, a stela, "the first pavilion in Gwandong" is hung. The stela was granted by King Sukjong in the Choseon dynasty, appraising its beautiful scenery. The beach near the pavilion is also the best place for enjoying the summer season.

The Younhojeong pavilion was established in 1815 in the reign of King Sunjo and named as Hyangwonjeong. But, because it was built among many tombs, people avoided the pavilion at night, fearing the mysterious voices of ghosts. In 1889, Jugjon Park yeongseon, the poet and chief editor of Hanseongsunbo, commenced his position as the governor of Uljin . When he heard of the mysterious story at the party in Hyangwonjeong, he wrote a poem. After that, Hyangwonjeong was ruined by rain and wind. In July 1922, Lee Giwon, the county governor at the time, rebuilt Gugagsa as well as Hyangsa at Guji and called them Younhojeong. Today, it is a very famous place for picnics and relaxation, and especially in August it will be crowded with a lot of visitors.

The Uljinbongpyeong Silla monument (a National treasure) was discovered in January 1988 at a rice field, (located at No 118 Bongpyeongri Jugbyeonmyeon) by a farmer who was toiling the soil at that time. But, no one recognized it as the valuable monument until later in April. Since the monument had been buried under the ground for a long period of time, some inscriptions on the surface of the monument were defaced so that they were not readable. But, it is presumed to be erected in the year 524 A.D during the reign of King Beopheung of the Silla dynasty . At the time when the monument was erected, the Silla dynasty had extended its territory, establishing Siljigju on the coast of the East Sea, and incorporated the area of Geobeolmora (currently called Bongpyeong). So, the residents rebelled against this incorporation. To punish this uprising, the Silla dynasty dispatched a man of virtue. The man of virtue punished the leaders of the uprising and erected this monument to prevent another uprising and also to show the power of the Silla dynasty. This monument is historical material showing the territory of the Silla dynasty, the ruling structure, the limit of royal authority and bureaucracy of the time. It was designated as a national treasure on 4th November 1988.

Haewolheon (Gyeongsang northern province's cultural asset) was originally built in 1588 in the reign of King Seonjo and expanded in 1847 after King Heonjong came to the throne. It was the outhouse of Hwang Yeoil, originally located at a moutaintop in Sandongri Giseongmyeon, but his descendants moved it to its current location. Haewolheon is an eight-sided house, having four sides at the front and three sides at both its flanks. The remaining one side of its flanks is a floor surrounded by the parapet and is above the ground. Hwang Yeoil's pseudonym was Hoiwon and his pen name was Haewolyeon. He was one of the Pyeonghae Hwang clan and his father's name was Hwang eungkyeong. Hwang yeoil wrote a good style in his childhood. He passed the Samasi in 1579 and a special civil service examination as Eulgwa in 1585 and held a lot of high positions. When Japan invaded Korea in 1592, he rendered distinguished service to the nation as the adviser for Dowonsa Kwanyul and took the office of Hyeongjojeongrang in 1594. In 1598, he visited the Myeong dynasty in China as the Seojanggwan of Jinjusa to deliver the Seojang of Jonggyeobyeonmu. In 1611 he held the office of Giljumoksa and Dongraejin Byeongmacheomjeoljesa in 1617 and later became a vice-minister.

Uljin's most famous tourist attraction is the limestone cave, Seongnyu-gul in the Seongnyu Mountain (199m above the sea level). Although it's not the most spectacular of South Korea's caves, it may be the most famous due to the fact that it was the first one to be opened to tourists in 1963.

The area surrounding the cave is blanketed with juniper trees, and a riverside walkway leads to the entrance. Inside, they've lit up the strange formations and columns with colored lights. Watch out as there are a couple of low areas, which may be difficult if you're tall. There are also a couple of narrow passageways, one especially where you'll have to waddle a bit to squeeze through.

Seongnyugul has 12 small and big squares with names like Yeonmudongsucksil, Eunhacheon, Ojackyo, Yongshinji, Seonnyeokyo, and 5 ponds.Each square shows a mystery. This limestone cave is 472 m long, 40 m high and 30 m deep in some places. In the cave, 500 thousand stalactites, stalagmites and columns can be seen. And it is called Geumgang under the ground. Its age is supposed to be about 250 million years and the Thuja orientalis living on the rock wall is a thousand years old. So, the tree and the cave were designated as natural memorial No 155 together. The temperature inside the cave remains at a constant temperature regardless of the change of the seasons.
The ponds in the cave are connected with Wangpicheon and fish live in the ponds. In addition, 31 kinds of wild animals such as bats and insects inhabit in it. The cave is rectangular and horizontal. The temperature is around 15°C. That is why it is cool in summer and warm in winter. Many resorts are located near this cave and tourists can enjoy sightseeing, swimming and forest bathing at the same time.

The original name of this cave was Seonyugul which means the beautiful place where hermits play. Seongnyugul got its name during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. When the Japanese military invaded Korea, monks in the temples near the cave moved their statues of Buddha into this cave to protect them from destruction by the Japanese army. From that time, this cave has been called "Seongnyugul" which means "statues of Buddha are in this cave."

But, the cave has a tragic history. During the invasion in 1592, a lot of people hid in this cave, but the Japanese army found the people using it as their shelter. So, the Japanese army blocked the entrance to the cave and the people starved to death inside. After the war ended, a lot of human bones were found inside the cave.

Yongchu Valley originates from Mt. Kalbong, which rises 900m above sea level. There is a place called Waryongchu which resembles a dragon lying down. Its waters are so clear that many people still believe a dragon fairy comes here to take a bath every now and then. The nine beautiful points of beauty, called Okgyegugok, start from Yongchu Falls and include Waryongchu, Musongam, Takryeongnoi, Gosiltan, Ilsadae, Chuwoldam, Cheongpunghyeop, Guiyuyeon, and Nongwangae. There are two main routes for mountain hikers. One leads to the southeast of Mt. Kalbong toward Gapyeong-eup, and the other leads to Mail-ri to the northwest. About 5km from Mt. Kalbong is Mt Yeonin (1,068m) where the Royal Azalea Festival is held every year.

This place is called Okgyedong. The nine beautiful sceneries of Okgyegugok, starting from the Yongchu Falls, include Waryongchu, Musongam, Takryeongnoi, Gosiltan, Ilsadae, Chuwoldam, Cheongpunghyeop, Guiyuyeon and Nongwangae

The Yongchu Falls is located about 6km northeast of Gapyeong-eup. Park your car by the waterfall (Jook-dong) and follow the valley up towards the northwest. The valley extends more than 10km and every turn opens up a unique view.

The best view is the large meander about 30 minutes up from the entrance. The meandering waters along the rocky wall and ridge create a beautiful natural pool that attracts many hikers. All the other views along the valley are uniquely beautiful, but the best thing about this place is that you can enjoy everything without the crowd.

Let’s take a look at the recreational forests here in Uljin, or known as the natural rest-forests.

The Gusugok natural rest-forest, located close to Mt. Eungbong (998.5m), the Deokgu valley and the Deokgu spa (1.5km), is a gift of nature, with beautiful scenery all around. Alongside a 10km stretch of virgin valley, there are rare trees such as 50~200 year old pine trees and a birch forest. A lot of wild animals and birds live in this forest. The valley is 10 ~40 m wide and its source is abundant and unpolluted, having 18 ponds and 10 falls. Especially, the two falls at the end of the two valleys are the masterpieces made by the nature. It is famous for the fresh verdure in summer and the red leaves in fall. It is the only place where tourists can enjoy the beautiful scenery as well as enjoying the spa, sea bathing and wood bathing. Because the recreation facilities are located at the entrance, the forest and valley are unpolluted.

The Mt. Tonggo natural rest-forest, covered with pine trees (Uljin pine tree) and broad leaved trees, gives the tourist the beautiful scenery of a forest. The tourist can enjoy wood bathing and walking inside the forest with family members and children for some environmental education. The path up the mountain (Mt. Tonggo: 1,067meter above the sea level) has 2.5km distance forest -road and is a two hour distance from the forest-road to the top of the mountain.

The Fresh water fish exhibition hall in Uljin is the biggest fresh water fish exhibition hall in Korea and a good place to study the lives of fish. In addition, near the hall, are Seongnugul, Mangyangjeong and Bulyoung valley which we have already seen. In the hall, the life of the salmon, 50 kinds of live local fresh water fish, 200 kinds of fish specimens, 55 different fish pictures, knowledge about lives of fish and related knowledge and the importance of fish resource are exhibited. So now we have gained some valuable information about fresh water fish by coming to this exhibition hall.

The nuclear power plant and the nuclear energy exhibition hall are probably the last things I would expect to find in a place like Uljin, North Korea perhaps, but there it is. Actually the word “nuclear energy” is a bit frightening and puts me off, so I practically don’t know a thing about it. And I think it’s high time I educate myself by going to this nuclear energy exhibition hall and see what I can learn there.
The Uljin nuclear energy center operates to help citizen understand nuclear energy and to provide them with the correct information on the principle, necessity and safety of nuclear energy. Also, the center is used as a cultural and recreational place for its communities, such as the wedding hall and the outdoor learning place.

Looks like we’ve seen most of the sights and all that Uljin has to offer, so let’s see what festivals they have in Uljin.

The Seongnyu Culture Festival, first started in 1977, will usually be held for 2 days in the month of October. There will be cultural events like the march of drum and fife band, provincial traditional music band's performance, and Sipiryeongbajigegun. If you like folk games then try your hand at these games - swing, Jeigi, Jumping, making rope, rope skipping, Sireum, and Yuch game.
There will even be calligraphy, potted plant, painting, flower arrangement, pottery, art exhibition, religious service of heavy catch, poem and picture exhibition, folk foods, farmer's market, composition contest and sketching contest so have a good time going to each section.

The Pyeonghaenam Daecheon Danoje festival, first started in 1984 is held on Tano (the lunar May 4^th and 5^th) at the Pyeonghaenam great stream to pray for a good harvest and peace. There will be cultural events like the religious ceremonies, instrumental music of the peasants, tug of war, provincial traditional music band's performance and shamanist ceremony (Byeolsingus). Again there will be folk games to be played as well as song contests.

For you jazz lovers, don’t miss the Uljin Jazz Festival, first started in 1998, which is usually held for a week in early August in the open air special stage in the Deokgu spa area where some 20,000 participants will come each year.

Not to be outdone, the Baekam spa, holds the Uljin Baekam spa Festival for two days in August at the Baekam spa special area. There will be events like the religious ceremonies for the spa, the flame relay, establishment of Jangseung, and the walking and climbing contests. There will also be song and dance performance contests and of course the usual folk games to play.

What are the specialties of Uljin I’m sure everyone of you are going to ask me? It’s a pity most of the specialties of the places we’ve been to or are going to are usually of the perishable and edible kind. So if you’re thinking of buying something to take back home I’d advise you not to. If you want to buy something to eat/munch in the car/bus on the journey back to Seoul then I guess it’s ok.

Top of the list of Uljin’s specialties is the Uljin snow crab. I would suggest that you go to a restaurant and order it if you want to know how it tastes like.. The Uljin pine tree mushroom has a peculiar smell and it is used by many people for its medicinal values. It is used for the control of high blood pressure, for the prevention of tooth decay and palsy and it’s supposed to have anti cancer properties. Growing in the pine tree area in the soil that contains granite, gneiss and limestone, the mushroom has a hard body and a thick skin. Thus, it keeps its nutrition for a long time. Its peculiar smell lasts for a long period of time and the thick skin contains plenty of nutrition.

Next we have the Gopo seaweed. Geographically, fresh water cannot be inserted into the coastline of the Gopo village. Thus, the sea along the coast is very clean and swallow. This environment produces seaweed of the highest quality. Since the Koryo dynasty, the seaweed of this area was offered to kings.

Caught in the clean East Sea and then dried in the fresh wind, Uljin dried cuttlefish tastes excellent and is the favored snack for the family. It is chewy and plain. I think I’m going to buy a few packets of these as I love them.

Caught in the offshore of Jigsan and Geoil, a blue belt of Uljin, silver anchovy has a fine skin and tastes good. Do you know that anchovy is a health food? It contains plenty of calcium. Because anchovies have a lot of taurin, they reduce cholesterol in blood and keep the blood pressure normal. In addition, anchovies have a lot of EPA and DHA that prevent arteriosclerosis and help develop the intellectual power. There’s another health food available in Uljin and it’s the Uljin Cham octopus which contains a lot of taurin.

Seasoned aster promotes blood circulation and works as an anti cancer vaccine. It is used as a medicine as well as edible food. It is sold raw or dried.

I think I’ll buy a watermelon to eat after dinner. The Uljin Bok watermelons planted under the rain protection facilities in the Bulyoung valley, taste sweet and soft. The degree of sweetness is two or three times higher than watermelons produced from other areas.

I just discovered, you can buy woodwork souvenirs made from the resinous pine wood from Uljin. But, they have a peculiar smell. What about Uljin hemp cloth then? Made from high quality Korean hemp, it is cooling to wear.

Well I’m afraid that’s all for today. So till next time, bye!