Discovering Gyeongsangbuk do – Cheongsong-gun Part 1

From Yeongdeok we shall be travelling westward to our next destination, Cheongsong-gun where we shall be seeing a lot of mountains again. I hope that you all had a good time at the seaside in Yeongdeok because the more we travel further inland, the less we’ll see of the sea.

To the east of Cheongsong-gun is the county of Yeongdeok, to the west is the city of Andong and the counties of Uiseong and Gunwi, to the south are the cities of Pohang and Yeongcheon, and to the north is the county of Yeongyang.

Due to the Taebaek Mountains, the eastern and southern parts of the county are mountainous. Some of the mountains to be found here are Taehaengsan, Juwangsan, Muposan, Bibongsan Bohyeonsan, Myeonbongsan and Guamsan.

So it looks like we’ll be mountaineers again here in Cheongsong-gun. But then after so much of the sun in Ulleung, Pohang and Yeongdeok, it will be a nice change to feel the refreshingly cool mountain air once again. They say it is famous for its apples—which are about the size of a baby’s head—and, more notoriously, for its prison, reputedly the most heavily guarded in Korea. It is also famous for its autumn scenery, some of the most spectacular in all Korea

Cheongsong-gun is made up of 1 eup and 7 myeons.

• Cheongsong-eup


• Andeok-myeon


• Budong-myeon


• Bunan-myeon


• Hyeondong-myeon


• Hyeonseo-myeon


• Jinbo-myeon


• Pacheon-myeon

And now let’s see what the symbols of Cheongsong stand for.

County Flag

The top part in green symbolizes "green mountains" in Cheongsong-gun The lower left part in blue symbolizes "clean rivers" and the lower right part in yellow symbolizes "rich fields." The entire symbol represents the image of an energetic rural area that pursues future-oriented progress.

County Tree : Pine
There is a saying, "Green is the best of 5 colors and the pine is the best of all trees." The county is thick with evergreen pine trees. The pine tree symbolizes "discipline" and "grit."

County Flower : Apple Flower
Apple flowers in full bloom in May cover the county white. The simple flower represents county people's simple and pure heart. From the old days, Cheongsong has had many wild apple trees.

County Bird : Pheasant
Pheasants have beautiful figures. They are found everywhere in the county because they breed profusely. They are familiar to county people.

County Animal: Otter
Otters live in very clean areas. The otter, designated as Natural Monument, was selected as the county animal to emphasize the clean image of Cheongsong and to protect them from extinction.

County Mascot : Pet name: Mijeong
It is a personification of Mt. Juwangsan with green trees and clean streams.

County Color : Green
Symbolizes nature, life, and hope of Cheongsong

Local Agricultural Product Mark

The circle symbolizes the harmony of county people
The mountain at the top symbolizes the beautiful Mt. Juwangsan. And the blue in the middle represents clean water
The bottom part symbolizes nationally famed, high quality Cheongsong apple and hot pepper

Characters
Solhalbae symbolizes an unworldly hermit and Solchorong symbolizes a fairy.

To start off the tour of Cheongsong-gun let’s go on a cultural tour of the major cultural properties as recommended on the county’s homepage.

The Willow(Salix grandulosa) in Gwan-dong located in Gwan-ri, Pacheon-myeon is about 400 years old but its exact age is unknown. It is a very big tree, 18 m high with a girth of 5.7m. The name 'wangbeodeul' means the big willow in Korean. The forest of Wangbeodeuls is used as a windbreaker and the tree serves as a shady resting place. It used to grow thickly before one of its branches was cut off, in order to take out a honeycomb. Now some parts of this tree are dead.

According to legend, a soldier went to war and never came back from the battlefield so this maiden hanged herself on the branch of the willow tree. After that, a pine tree grew beside the willow tree, and up to now, these trees have been revered by the villagers as the guardian of the village. Annual offerings are made to the spirit of these two trees.
The wangbeodeul(big willow) has been preserved through the Korean ancestors' care and concern and has been designated natural monument #193.

The Chinese Juniper in Jangcheon-ri, in Andeok-myeon, is also about 400 years old. It stands 7.5m high and its girth is about 4.9m. The Chinese Juniper has a strong smell, thus it is used as the incense in religious ceremonies. Although this tree is small, the trunk of this tree is thick. The branches of this tree spread nicely. The Chinese Juniper in Andeok-myeon has been cared for by its descendants for a long time. This too is a natural monument

The Seongcheon Family House in Cheong-un-dong is located on a wonderful site with what the Chinese would say as having a very good ‘feng shui’. A mountain is at the back and a stream is running in front. The planning is in the closed '口' form, which is very common in mountainous areas. This house was said to have been bought by Im Chun-seop, a government official during the reign of the King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty, but historians believe it was constructed more than 200 years ago.
Most of the houses in this village face the east, within sight of the Yongjeoncheon stream flowing down in the east.
However this house, sited on a high spot in the southern part of the village, was constructed facing the south.
The anchae protrudes one room forward to the west, The building is connected to the room at the back of one of the sarangbang, or the men's room for entertaining male guests.
The Hangnangchae, the servants' quarters is separate from the anchae.

Before

Now

Changyeongnu, Tangible Cultural Property No. 183 of Gyeongsangbuk-do is a two-storey, 16 room building in Wolmak-ri, Cheongsong-eup. It was constructed in 1428 by the local chief official, Ha Dam, in the reign of King Sejong and was rebuilt in 1688 during King Sukjong's reign. It was built next to the grave of the progenitor of the Cheongsong Sim family to be used for ancestral rites. The name of this building, Changyeongnu, means "a house for praising happy events," and according to a document, it was so named because from here the people could look upward to Queen Soheonwanghu's ancestors tombs on Mt. Bogwangsan and praise their good deeds.
The calligraphy on the building was done by Anpyeongdaegun, one of the king's eight sons.

The Unbonggwan Inn is located in Wolmak-ri, Cheongsong-eup. It was an inn for visiting government officials during the Joseon Period. It was constructed in the 10th year of King Sejong's reign(1428) together with Changyeongnu.

Banghojeong Pavilion- Folk Material No. 51 of Gyeongsangbuk-do, located in Sinseong-ri, Andeok-myeon, was constructed by Bangho Jo Jundo in the reign of King Gwanghaegun in 1619.

He called it Sachin("parent thinking"), or Bungsudang, but the pavilion was better known as Banghojeong after the pen name, Bangho, of Jo Jundo.
This was a place where some great Joseon scholars such as Yi Jun, Jo Hyeongdo, Gwon Ik, Jo Jundo and Sin Jip worked and enjoyed the surrounding landscape.
A four bay lecture hall was added to the pavilion in 1827.
Located on a cliff in the upstream of the Nakdonggang River, this L-shaped structure has a half-gabled and half-hipped roof in the side elevation and gabled roof on the front.
In the pavilion are the wooden printing blocks for Bangho's works and sign boards calligraphed by a number of scholars.

Songso's Old House - Cultural Material No. 63 of Gyeongsangbuk-do is located at 176, Deokcheon-ri, Pacheon-myeon, it was a house with 99 rooms originally. It was constructed for a rich man, Songso Sim Hotaek . This house was built around 1880 when Sim Hotaek, a seventh -generation descendant of Sim Jodae, a very wealthy man during the reign of King Yeongjo(1724-76) of the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910), moved to his hometown.
The residence comprises a gate with wings, a large Sarangchae, or the men's quarters, and a smaller one, an Anchae, or the women's living quarters, and a family shrine.
The gate has a lofty roof with bars on the top.
The hipped-and-gabled roofed main Sarangchae is the largest building at five by two kan (a traditional unit of measure refering to the space between two pillars).
To the right of the main Sarangchae is another Sarangchae, behind which is the Anchae.
The Anchae is of a square layout.
It has transom windows above the doors of the wooden floored hall.
Each structure has its own courtyard.
The house is characteristic of the upper-class dwellings of the Joseon period.

Mt. Juwangsan (721 m), designated as National Park No.12 in 1976, is the smallest of the domestic national parks. Mt. Juwangsan is not so steep, making it a great place to walk and enjoy the wonderful scenery. One of South Korea's most isolated and least visited national parks, the Juwangsan National Park, in Sangeui-li, Budong-myeon, is part of the Taebek mountain range and consists of 12 peaks rising over 600m. The rocky peaks are lined up like a folding screen, and are famous for their beautiful scenery throughout the year

As there are many waterfalls deep in the mountains, Juwangsan is a habitat for a wide variety of flora and fauna. There are 46 species of mammals, 35 species of birds, and 474 species of insects, as well as 393 plant species. Famous plant varieties of Juwangsan are the Korean boxwood, pine mushrooms, and natural moss. Wild azaleas are widely distributed across the mountains in the Cheongsong region but those on Juwangsan are specially named Sudanhwa, or Sudallae.

The legend goes that when Juwang fought with Silla soldiers he was shot with an arrow, and the blood from his wounds mixed with the water of Juwanggul cave and ran over the valleys in a stream of red. The following year a new species of flower began to appear along the valleys and streams and people believed that Juwang’s blood had bloomed as flowers.

Mt. Juwang (sometimes spelled Chuwang) is also known by many other names, like Seokbyeongsan, Jubangsan, and Dedunsan. From a distance Juwangsan doesn't look much, but you'll see its gorgeous scenery once you arrive in the middle of it. The park is divided into three areas: Jubanggol (Jubang Valley) at the entrance, Jeolgocheon in the east, and Yaksutang (known for its mineral springs) in the west.

There are many waterfalls that represent the beauty of Juwangsan. The representative waterfalls are the 1st, 2nd, 3rd waterfalls and the Dalgi Pokpo Waterfall. Also there are many beautiful valleys such as the Outer-Juwang Valley, Inner-Juwang Valley, Wolwae Valley and Naewon Valley. On the mountainside there is a 6 meter high Jahaseong that spreads out 15 km, and there is the Dalgimul Mineral Spring in the Goenae mid-stream.

The First Waterfall creates very cheerful sounds. The source of this fall is not visible but the sound of water coming from Haksodae will wash away any emptiness you might feel.
Rock cliffs surrounding this fall block wind and create a serene atmosphere. The falling water breaks this tranquility and continues its journey downward.
A rainbow formed in the spray of waterfall enchants the visitors.
In the pool under the fall, schools of fish swim around. And the pebbles in the water tempt hikers to soak their feet in the water. In the cracks of the rock cliffs, wild flowers bloom. And when you look up, the clouds floating in the sky are visible between the rock cliffs.

Many legends are associated with the mountains, including the story of King Juwon, the Shilla king, who supposedly lived here after handing over the Shilla Kingdom to the Goryeo Dynasty.

The curious-shaped peaks and rocks of Juwangsan were created by sudden volcanic activity about 70 million years ago.

At Juwangsan there are temples such as Daejeonsa, Gwangamsa, Yeonhwasa Temples, and hermitages such as Juwangam and Baekryeonam. Mt. Juwangsan National Park, home to a thousand-year old temple, the Bokwangsa Temple is one of many cultural assets preserved in this area, which is also blessed with rich valleys.

Located just past the entrance to the park is the largest temple, the Daejeonsa, which was built in the 12th year of Shilla King Munmu (A.D. 672) and named after King Ju's son. The temple was later rebuilt in 1672 after being destroyed by war and fire. Daejeonsa Temple preserves national treasures such as the portrait of the Great Buddhist Monk Sa-Myeong. You can find many interesting rocks such as Giam, Seokbyeokam, Geupsudae, Jeongsam & Adeulbawi, and also caves such as Juwanggul where Juwang hid before he was captured, Mujanggul where weapons were kept and Yeonhwagul, which used to be the training grounds.

The Bogwangjeon Hall of the Daejeonsa Temple was rebuilt in 1672, after ut was destroyed in a fire during the 1592 - 98 Japanese invasion. It was designated Tangible Cultural Property #202 housing a Buddhist statue and a rare painting of Munsubosal riding on an elephant on the left wall.
There are two ruined pagodas in front of Bogwangjeon, presumed to be the work of the Silla Dynasty, with beautiful carvings. In the east of Bogwangjeon, there is a pagoda of piled up stones, and at the back of the stone pagoda, is the Budobat(Budo fields) where Budos of the old monks who stayed here during the Joseon Dynasty, are gathered.
Daejeonsa was a well known place. Choi Chiwon of the Silla Dynasty, Naong-hwasang, Doseonguksa, Bojo-guksa, Muhakdaesa, Suh Geojeong, Kim Jongjik used to come here. According to the book 'Taengniji (a geographical book)', Daejeonsa is a wonderful place for Holy Ghosts and monks to love. There are two attached hermitages, Juwangam and Baengnyeonam in Daejeonam.

About 100m from the Juwangam Hermitage there is a cliff and a cave with a waterfall next to it where King Ju together with his son, Daejeon and daughter, Yeonhwa hid from General Gwakjaui of the Tang Dynasty. He died in Juwanggul Cave while washing his face. Since the waterfall was located right in front of the cave, people could not find King Ju, but General Ma found him by using his mysterious power of making the water move to the left.

If you want to know the sex of your unborn child go to a big rock called the Adeulbawi Rock, a short distance away from the Daejeonsa. Standing behind the rock holding a stone with the right hand for men, and the left hand for women, throw it between your legs. If the stone lands on top of the rock, the baby will be a boy, other than that, a girl, according to the legend.

All trails in the park are good for day hikes. The main trail goes around Jubongcheon in a circular route. There are four other trails, all of which can be completed in 4 to 6 hours.

Hiking Course

• Daejeonsa(temple)-Haksodae(rock)-1st Falls-2nd Falls-3rd Falls-Daejeonsa(temple)


• Daejeonsa(temple)-Juwangsan-Hurimegi(valley)-2nd Falls-Daejeonsa (temple)


• Daejeonsa(temple)-Hurimegi (valley)-Gamebong(peak)-2nd Falls-Daejeonsa (temple)


• Jeolgol(valley) Control Booth-Gamebong(peak)-3rd Falls-Daejeonsa(temple)

Even if you’re not the mountain-hiking type, Mt. Juwangsan is well worth your time. A leisurely stroll up the Jubang Valley, cuts a path through the middle of the park. Along the way, you’re treated to a breathtaking display of sheer canyons and crystal clear streams that have carved a variety of pools and waterfalls from the smooth granite. Above your head, craggy rock formations, cliffs and peaks add to the natural splendor.

Most people visit Juwangsan on a day trip, but you can rough it out at the Sangui Campground near the entrance for only W3,000 to W6,000 per night But you have to make reservations at least 5 days in advance (up to a month in advance during popular seasons). You can also stay at any number of minbaks across from the bus terminal or the small inns near the park entrance or around the Yaksutang district.

The park only began seeing more visitors after Kim Ki-duk used the Jusanji Lake as the setting for his movie, "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, and Spring."

Technically speaking, Jusanji lake is an agricultural reservoir, constructed between 1720 and 1721, located within the confines of this National Park. A few years ago, hardly anyone, besides the locals, knew it even existed. The small, man-made lake is located in the inner part of Juwangsan, where the trails and roads are not as well developed as the outer section of the park.

It is surrounded by a thick forest that stretches to Yeonbong Peak. The atmosphere here is so tranquil and restful that you can forget all your troubles. Since it was constructed, it has never dried up even during the severest drought. About thirty 150-year-old weeping willows growing in the pond create an incredible scenic beauty. Among the photographically oriented, it is considered one of Korea’s most picturesque sites. Although the "island temple" set used in the film had to be dismantled for environmental reasons, you can still enjoy the changing seasons at this location, which is most beautiful in both the spring when the entire valley is ablaze with colorful blooms and in the fall as the autumn leaves create a glorious scene.

To enjoy Mt. Juwangsan at its very best, however, you have to visit in autumn. When the foliage is at its zenith, the mountainsides become a brilliant display of bright crimson and gold. Also of interest is Juwangam, a small hermitage where, it is said, Juwang—a nobleman from Tang China and the mountain’s namesake—hid following a failed uprising against the Chinese emperor.

Time for me to call it a day! Hope you’ll drop by again.