From Pohang we shall be heading up north to Yeongdeok-gun which shall be our next destination. Yeongdeok-gun is on the East Sea coast of Gyeongsangbuk-do, bounded in the north by the county of Uljin, to the west are the counties of Yeongyang and Cheongsong, to the south is the city of Pohang and to the east is the sea. To the northeast are the Taebaek Mountains, including mountains such as the Chilbosan and the Palgaksan. The main river in the county is the Oshipcheon.
As usual we shall be taking a look at the county’s emblems and goals etc. So here they are from the county’s website.
Mascots
We used the Yeongdeok snow crab, one of the local specialties, to express the enthusiasm and warm hearts of the local residents.
The first syllables of 'Keenie' and 'Tory,' 'Kee' and 'To,' come from chitosan, which is extracted from the crab shell.
We used the Yeongdeok peach, one of the local specialties, to express that, like a blossoming flower, we greet tourists with big smiles, the flowers of culture are blooming, and the fruits here are the sweetest.
'Yeongbogee' and "Deoksungee' come from the first syllables and second syllables of 'Yeongdeok' and 'boksungah (peach)' respectively.
The snow crab wearing a multicolored jacket represents the beauty and charm of Korea.
We used General Shindolseok, a local militia general in late Chosun, to express the adamant willpower and strength of Yeongdeok residents who will lead the Pan-East-Sea age of the 21st century
Goal of Yeongdeok-gun
· We will become the center of the pan-East-Sea era of the 21st century.
· Transforming into a marine tourist resort linked to the development of the east coast area and the Pohang area
· A transportation hub that can link the inland to the costal area thanks to the expansion and paving of national highways 7 and 34, and the construction of the East Coast Central Line
· Balanced development of the region and dynamic execution of current projects: Construction of the Grand Ganggu Bridge, and the Cheoncheon Bridge
After driving about 40 minutes out of Pohang towards Yeongdeok and another 30 minutes along the local road #918 from Ganggu look out for the Sunrise park where we shall stop to do a bit of sightseeing. This will save us making another trip from Yeongdeok since it is on our way into Yeongdeok now. The park is well organized with wild flowers, hiking paths, observation decks, resting places, and reeds. It is a wonderful place where you can relax. It is located on one of the most beautiful coastal roads in Korea. It is a beautiful park with "music" and "sculptures."
Just mention Yeongdeok and what comes to mind instantly? Don’t know? Yeongdeok is famous for its large Snow Crabs the so-called “king of crabs.” and also for its peaches. The name 'daege' originates not from the fact that the crab is big, but the fact that the legs extend straight out from the body like bamboo sticks. The flesh of the snow crab that is caught off the coast between Ganggu-myeon and Chuksan-myeon of Yeongdeok-gun in March and April, is chewier than the crab meat from any other place. It is usually caught between November and May of the following year.
Yeongdeok's crabs are usually eaten by steaming them. Large lumps of juicy white crab meat and a chug of local soju is indeed a perfect dinner. After finishing off poking, scraping and crunching at the crabs, restaurants usually fry rice with the crab's tangy intestines and serve them in the crab shell to finish off the meal. The snow crab potpourri is the top-class snow crab dish composed of gratin sushi, fries, grilled food, and laver rolls. The snow crab casserole is made by putting spices and condiments in the pot, and boiling it with various vegetables and snow crab. It tastes great, and there is no fishy smell. But served with Matsutake mushrooms, snow crabs will please your taste buds even more and fill your stomachs, living up to its famous reputation of being “the most expensive and valuable Korean dish.”
A blessing in disguise is what I would call typhoon Sara when it completely wiped out farmland with the flooding of the Osip River, as a result of which the farmers had to grow peach trees instead of crop because the farmland had been changed into sandy soil. And because of this, Yeongdeok-gun is one of the major producers of peaches in Korea today, in fact 10 percent of Korea's peaches comes from Yeongdeok-gun. The peaches of Yeongdeok, which grow in the sandy soil next to the Oshipcheon River, are highly nutritious, exceptionally sweet, and taste great. Thanks to the low rainfall and lots of sunshine, Yeongdeok produces large, sweet, and very light-colored peaches that are soft but firm. In 1998 they were recognized as an excellent agricultural product of Gyeongsang-bukdo. So if you want to taste them, come in August when these sweet and juicy fruits are being harvested.
In early April, take a drive along national road No. 34 from Andong which runs alongside the Osipchoen River towards Yeongdeok, using the Hwanjangjae Pass . This course is pleasant to drive along in the springtime when the trees are in full bloom with peach blossoms. Peach blossoms are the most beautiful flowers among all the fruit trees, doused a lovely light pink hue at first. gradually turning red and finally becoming crimson ten days before the petals fall off. However, if it rains or gets cold, the peach trees sprout their pretty blossoms a little later, and the blossoms easily fall together in clumps if stirred by a cool breeze or the spring rain.
The scenic Yeongdeok peach blossom road runs for about 10 kilometers from Jipum-myeon to Yeongdeok-eup. It is even more spectacular around Samhwa-ri, Ocheon-solbat at Ocheon-ri and Gumi-ri, Yeongdeok-eup. There are also pear orchards in between the peach orchards, so you will be able to see two different types of blossoms, the pink peach blossoms as well as the white pear blossoms . The scenery is truly magnificent.
Since we are on this subject, I might as well tell you that the Yeongdeok Peach Blossom Festival takes place every year in Yeongdeok-gun, in early April. The festival is held at the Yeongdeok County Stadium, along Highway #7 just a bit west of Yeongdeok town. It features exhibitions, nongak and singing contests, a Miss Peach Blossom contest, wolwolyi cheongcheong, and a costume parade.
After enjoying the stunning beauty of the peach and pear blossoms, more natural scenic beauty awaits us at the Samsa Marine Park and the Okgye Valley.
Located in Samsa-ri across from Ganggu port, the Samsa Marine Park has a total area of about 80,000 pyong. It is located at the centre of what is arguably the country’s best location to watch the sunrise in Yeongdeok. Yes and that’s why I have to tell you about the Yeongdeok Sunrise Festival that is being held here every year on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
The Samsa Marine Park is where the blue sea of Yeongdeok and the sunrise are in perfect harmony. Many people from across the country visit the Yeongdeok Sunrise Festival just to watch the sunrise and to join in the festivities. Every year on the 31st of December (New Year’s Eve) various events such as the 'Daljip burning' (burning straw under the moon), a year-end concert, and a fireworks display are held. In addition, such events such as the 'Gyeongbuk daejang tajong (striking the Grand Gyeongbuk Bell)' to usher in the new year, and the Sunrise Festival to make a new year's wish on the rising sun (the 1st sunrise of the year) are being held here. No other place can give you a better New Year experience such as this. Visitors can admire the beautiful sunrise with the sound of the grand bell faintly in the distance. You’re still in time to catch this festival, you know!
At the Samsa Marine Park are waterfalls, fountains, and a natural observation deck that will enable you to have a bird's-eye view of the entire East Coast. Its recreational facilities include Theme Land and Happy Day. Accommodation is also available here.
Still keeping to the national road # 34 from Jipum towards Yoeondeok, continue driving until you reach Sinyang-ri, then turn right. Cross the Sinyanggyo Bridge and drive along the provincial road # 69 for about 14 kilometers and you will reach the Okgye Valley. It is a valley formed by two water streams from the valleys of Mt. Palgaksan and Mt. Dongdaesan. Okgye Valley is very attractive with its wonderful harmony of mountains and streams.
The descendants of Son Eulseong, who used to live in Gyeongju, wandered around the Korean peninsula and were impressed with the natural beauty of this place and settled here. The Chimsujeong Pavilion, (declared a monument) was built by Son in the year 1609 during the reign of King Gwanghaegun of the Yi dynasty, which adds to the natural beauty of this valley.
Talking about valleys there is another valley worth taking a look. The Samseong Valley is about a 12 minutes drive from Yeongdeok along national road #34 towards Andong, and another 20 minutes towards Cheongsong along government-supported local road #69.
Located to the north of Mt. Palgak, this valley is surrounded by rocks, and there used to be an island here. As the valley is rugged and deep, deer and wild boars inhabit it, and there is a suspension bridge at the entrance, the longest (70m) in Korea. The hiking path leading from the valley to the peak is 6.1km. Each year many hikers frequent the Sanseong Valley. Other tourist attractions in the vicinity include the Yongchu Falls, Mt. Palgak and Mt. Dongdae
No write up of Yeongdeok will be complete unless Ganggu Port is included as it is the final point where 50 streams in Yeongdeok-gun gather together and flow into the East Sea. Unlike the nearby Seohae Port that was formed by a tidal water channel, Ganggu Port is man-made and therefore attracts much attention. What is unique about it, is that its bulwarks stand on both sides of the shore facing each other.
Although it’s not as busy as it was in its heydays, Ganggu Port is still famous for its bustling crowds. This place is noted as the production center for the snow crabs, the so-called “king of crabs.” This is where people can eat snow crabs at a cheaper price than in any other area, which accounts for its popularity. The port is also the genuine original harvesting location of the Yeongdeok snow crabs. Ganggu Port was also the filming location of a television drama “You and I.”
Around 9am everyday, a scene worth experiencing takes place here at the Ganggu Port where fishing vessels with their prized catches from the sea reveal their merchandise to be auctioned off right there on the spot. When the time comes, a whistle is blown, and the crabs are speedily lined up according to size. Then an auctioneer belts out seemingly incomprehensible sounds to gather the attention of the auction brokers. Only those registered with the city's fisheries association can take part on behalf of ordinary buyers, usually restaurant owners. They are identifiable by their blue caps. After several minutes of the auctioneer's songlike chants and busy finger signs by the auction brokers, the deals are completed in the blink of an eye.
Ganggu Port is also one of the venues for the Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival. This festival usually runs from February to March, the best season for Yeongdeok snow crabs.
Long ago, these snow crabs were regarded as such delicacies that they would be specially presented to the king. King crabs in Yeongdeok are reared in the sand and therefore have a particularly clean and pure taste.
There are many snow crabs on special offer during the festival. The 'salgeori' madang (surprise auctions) are especially popular. Here over 100,000 snow crabs are sold, and this is the perfect opportunity for visitors to purchase snow crabs at low prices and to experience the marketplace atmosphere. It will also provide visitors with opportunities for a hands-on experience in a range of programs including trips on crab fishing boats, soap making, face painting, origami, taking part in a snow crab cooking competition or the raw fish slicing contest and even sample various snow crab dishes for free, such as daegetang (snow crab soup) and snow crab noodles.
This year marked the twelfth-annual Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival which was held from 20th to 22nd March 2009. The festival took place around Samsa Marine Park and the Ganggu port and Snow crab village. Samsa Marine Park played host to a concert featuring Korean traditional and popular music. Yeongdeok is just a coastal town with 45,000 residents but nearly 500,000 people come every year to attend the festival with the hope of getting the famous crab at a good price.
Chilbo Mountain (810m) stands by the seashore of the East Sea. Legend says that in the middle period of the Goryo empire, a Chinese man drank the water from the mountain and left saying that there were treasures in the mountain. People found 7 plants and resource treasures such as rock mosses, wild sand ginseng, ginseng, milk vetches, wild pigs, copper and iron and named the mountain "Chilbo Mountain."
A forest resort, the Chilbo Mountain Forest Resort has been developed on the mountain, making the mountain famous as a vacation destination. There are 2 hiking trails to the peak of Chilbo Mountain where the view is fantastic.
Yeongdeok is home to the first and the largest fossil museum in Korea. The Gyeongbo Fossil Museum was opened on June 26, 1996. More than 2,000 fossils collected from across the world are on display here. They are sorted by period, classification, and characteristics. It consists of the 150-pyong indoor exhibition room and the outdoor exhibition pavilion that overlooks the East Sea.
Let’s now go to the Yugeumsa Temple to hunt for this treasure, the Yugeumsasamcheungseoktap (the Three storied stone pagoda.)
The Yugeumsa Temple, built by the monk, Jajang, during the reign of Queen Seondeok had been a considerable sized temple until the middle of the Joseon Dynasty.
According to the legend, a landslide caused by heavy rainfall destroyed the temple, after the chief of the temple saw two dragons having sexual intercourse on his way there from the Bulguksa Temple. The chief felt uneasy about the unusual encounter and before he reached the Yugeumsa temple, the landslide had already taken its toll.
Since its reconstruction in the reign of King Injo, the temple has preserved its appearance so far. It is usual for a pagoda to stand in front of the main prayer hall but this pagoda stands in the back yard and the main prayer hall was built behind it. It doesn't seem to have been moved from somewhere else.
This pagoda consists of a two-storey platform and a three-storey main section. The bottom and the top platforms have the corner pillars engraved at the corners and at the sides are placed a two-layer strut to hold the next layer. Assembled into one piece, the roof stone and the core stone make up the main part of the pagoda. Every storey has the corner-pillar at the corner without any particular decoration. A four-layer strut holds the roof stone. In the final storey of the pagoda, round stones are piled in an order which do not match with the rest. The pagoda narrows as it goes up at an appropriate rate and the big platform helps keep the pagoda stable.
The pillar decoration on every forth layer of the platform and the four-layer strut for the roof stone is proof that the pagoda was built in the late Silla era.
And now we’ll go to another temple, the Jangyuksa in Galcheon-ri, Changsu-myeon, to look at another treasure, the Yeongdeokjangyuksageonchilbosaljwasang (the Seated Buddha of Jangyuksa Temple in Yeongdeok)
Through the inscriptions found of the golden repainting of the statue, it was revealed that the statue was made through the donations from the officials and the people of the Yonghaebu District in 1395 and that it was repainted again in 1407. It was also written in the records that "The Goddess of Mercy at the sanctum of Wijangsa Temple had also been repainted again." And from that, it was presumed that this statue had been originally enshrined at the Wijangsa Temple on Mt. Yongdusan in the Yeonghae area.
This Geonchilbul Buddha statue was believed to have had the mud interlining wrapped by the linen on which the mud powder was placed and the interlining removed. The face is not distinct, but the face looks obstinate and the shape is a little bit bent. Compared with the Buddha statues in the early 14th century, the decoration was more emphasized by a lot of carvings. The decoration of the clothes worn inside, droops down closely to the waist, which was the expression of the transition stage before the Age of Joseon when the decoration completely disappeared.
The similar styles are expressed by the wooden statue of the Goddess of Mercy in the Pagyesa Temple (rebuilt in 1447.) and the gold and bronze seated statue of Unbuam Hermitage at the Eunhaesa Temple (around 15 century). As both are located in the region of Gyeongsangbuk-do, the Bodhisattva statue of Jangnyuksa Temple, which showed the transition point between the end of the Goryeo period and the early Joseon period, has more important meaning in the history of sculptures.
I’m sure you must be very tired by now so we’ll have to call it a day for now. More of Yeongdeok to come. So don’t forget to drop by OK? See you.
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