Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Discovering Gyeongsangbuk do – Cheongdo-gun Part 1




Today, we are heading south to Cheongdo-gun. When I saw bull fighting listed as one of the festivals of Cheongdo , it brought back visions of the bullfights I saw in Spain many years ago. But after reading on I discovered that the bullfights in Cheongdo is entirely different from the bullfights in Spain. In Korea, the bulls fight each other, it’s a battle of the beasts and not between man and beast. Shall tell you more about the bullfights in Cheongdo after I’ve done the introduction to Cheongdo. I think I’m going to love Cheongdo, it boasts of its seedless and juicy persimmons, they even have papayas, two of my favourite fruits. 
So let’s see what the homepage says about Cheongdo and its symbols, shall we?

Symbol
Cheongdo CI
Cheongdo CI
Overall, it refers to Cheongdo people’s strong spirit and passion for the future, and development and growth of Cheongdo

The red on the right and left sides form horns and symbolize Cheongdo’s bull fighting

The green and blue oval symbolizes Cheongdo’s green mountains and clean rivers, rich nature, and persimmons and peaches, Cheongdo’s special products
The red oval is combined with the English logo to symbolize Cheongdo’s bull fighting and bullring and to express the harmonious community in Cheongdo.
Cheongdo’s character – Cow and Bunga

Cheongdo’s character – Cow and Bunga

A pair of Korean cows with the theme of harmony and unity is designated as the basic type. The robust cows are translated into a cute and friendly image. Cheongdo’s character pursues harmony among the people of the north, south, east, and west beyond the harmony that can be found in Cheongdo.
These character names are to let the world know about Cheongdo’s folk festival through cows which represent the agricultural culture, and they are onomatopoeic words meaning “Let’s go!”, “We made it!”, and “Hurray!”
Cheongdo’s flower – Royal azalea
Cheongdo’s flower – Royal azalea
The royal azalea is a beautiful flower that has a strong vitality and propagation power. It represents the Cheongdo people’s strong spirit. Its flower language is the joy of love.
Cheongdo’s tree– Persimmon Tree
Cheongdo’s tree– Persimmon Tree
In order to raise the spirit of the residents of Cheongdo it has designated, as its province tree, a special type of persimmon tree (Cheongdo Bansi) that yields seedless, juicy fruit, grows straight and tall, and that only grows in Cheongdo.
The Cheongdo bird – Magpie
The Cheongdo bird – Magpie
The magpie is a lucky, useful, and joyful bird. It symbolizes the brightness of the spirits of the people of Cheongdo.
Cheongdo is made up of 2 Eups and 7 myeons.
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Let’s see, where shall we start for our sightseeing in Cheongdo; there are the eight famous spots in Cheongdo, twelve famous Buddhist temples, 79 Treasures & Cultural Assets, 10 mountains, 2 valleys and 1 waterfall listed. Take your pick! And while you’re deciding, why don’t I tell you about some of the festivals in Cheongdo.


Cheongdo  Jeongwoldaeboreum
Looks like we just missed the Jeongwoldaeboreum Festival, or the year’s first full moon day according to the lunar calendar. This festival is  celebrated on a large scale here in Cheongdo.


On the evening of Jeongwoldaeboreum, people gather on a village hill or fields to build small wooden houses, called Daljip, and burn them. Village youths build the houses with pine tree boughs and bales of straw in the east/west or north/south of the village. These houses are set on fire when the first moon begins to show, and the villagers play music and dance around the burning houses. The quicker it burns, the more easily the problems of that village will be solved and they will enjoy a good harvest. Otherwise, people believe it will be a poor harvest year and evil will come to plague the village. When the fire dies out, the children roast beans on the coals. The villagers also believed that if a woman without a son put a burnt branch between her legs or put it on top of her roof, she would bear a son.
On the evening of the 1st full moon day, people climb a high hill near the village and practice the "Dalmaji" or "the viewing of the moon," People, carrying torches, brave the freezing weather to view the first moon of the year. When the moon is high in the sky, people stick the torch in the ground and make a wish. Whatever the wish is, whether farmers pray for a good harvest, singles to get married, that wish would come true.

People will be rushing to view the moon before others, because it’s supposed to bring good luck. Farmers forecasted the coming harvest year with the moon. If the moonlight was white, it would be rainy, if it was red, the weather would be too cold. If the moonlight was bright, it would be a good harvest year, if not farmers believed they would have a poor harvest. If the moon leaned towards the south it meant a good harvest for coastal region, if it leaned towards the north, it would be a good year for the mountainous region. The tradition continues even today and every year the daljip burning event is held along the Cheongdo Riverbanks. Also, when the daljip catches fire, they also set the fields alight. This is called "Jwibulnori," which means "mice fire play." The purpose of this custom was to kill the mice leaving their holes and exterminate insects that infested the dry fields. Afterwards, people roast nuts and share them together.


The Daljip is the largest in the country. It stands 20 meters high and 15 meters wide. 55 trucks of pine tree boughs, 200 bales of straw 30 bunches of rope and 60 wood pillars are needed to erect this mammoth moon house every year. In addition, a variety of events such as kite flying, Yunnori, Jegichagi, Neolttwig(Korean seesaw) and sharing New Year’s Food, are held to wish a happy new lunar year and a good harvest.


And now for the bullfights I mentioned earlier. Let’s find out the rules of the game first so that we can understand how it is played.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival


Bullfighting in Cheongdo has a tradition with a thousand year old history. 
Although there is no written record on the origin of bullfighting, it is believed  to have started off as an impromptu game played by herdsmen. The bulls belonging to different owners, used to graze together in the open meadows, and there must have been occasions when the bulls fought amongst themselves. These fights must have provided some excitement and entertainment for the herdsmen. And perhaps that was how it led to the bull owners challenging each other as to whose bull was the better fighter. It might have started among the villages at first, and which later spread to other regions. As a township grew, bullfighting was used as a way to show off a household or a village’s power.


The game, which was played during Chuseok, was banned during the Japanese colonial rule because Japan wanted to stop Koreans from engaging in cooperative games. The game was reinstated after Korea won its independence in 1945, and it became a major event since the mid-1970s. The bullfighting festival, which was staged to celebrate the March 1 Independence Movement Day since the 1990s at the Seowon riverside has now grown into the biggest bullfighting event in Korea.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival 06


In Cheongdo bullfighting, the bulls graze together in the field before they lock horns while onlookers cheer on. In the beginning, bulls fought regardless of their size however in recent years, the bulls are divided into three categories according to weight and once the fight begins, they use various techniques such as head bumping, pushing, neck butting and flank attacking.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival 01


In 1999, the Culture and Tourism Ministry selected the event as one of the top 10 local cultural festivals, recognizing it as the nation’s best bullfighting event. Spurred on by this recognition, Cheongdo Gun and the Cheongdo Bullfighting Association have worked together to offer various events, such as inviting Japanese fighting bulls, good-will bullfighting between Korea and Japan, a rodeo show by US troops stationed in Korea. Some 210-thousand tourists took part in the 5-day festival, with many foreign tourists from Japan and Korea.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival 04


The bulls are grouped into three weight groups:-
  • Gap Category: Above 730,
  • Eul category: less than 730,
  • Byeong category: less than 640)
The winner of a match continues to the next round in the tournament
The bull loses if it turns its head and runs away
There is no time limit and the fight continues until one bull is left standing.
Professional trainers pick fighting bulls and carry out intensive training. Bulls have to be two years old in order to take part in the fight. Bulls have to take part in the fighting for at least 5 years before being allowed to compete in the ‘above 730 kg category’. Fighting bulls concentrate exclusively on increasing physical strength and learning techniques. The fighting bulls and trainers usually have a special bond as building trust is an important aspect in winning.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival 03


Physical characteristics of fighting bulls
  • Tall, large body, strong paw and sturdy build
  • Horns, the biggest fighting tool in bull fighting, should spread out towards the left and right and they should be narrow
  • Eyes and ears should be small, front legs short and the neck should be well-developed
  • Bulls that have characteristic endurance and spirit as well as agility
Fighting bulls usually eat feed which is a mixture of barley, bean, and wheat with rice husks. Sesame seeds are occasionally mixed in as well. Nearing the date of the bullfight, trainers will feed their bulls, eels and snakes to increase their strength. It costs an average of 400,000 to 500,000won per month to feed one fighting bull.

The physical training includes running up hills, running with tires attached to the hind legs to build strength and learning techniques such as head bumping, horn striking, and flank attacking.

So, now that you know how they are picked, fed, and trained, as well as the rules of the game, are you ready for your first bull fight experience in Cheongdo?
Know what? You’re in luck because Cheongdo will be holding the 2010 Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival from March 17 – 21. Here’s an extract from the Korea.net: Cheongdo Bullfight Event 


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival dome stadium


“The bullfighting will take place at an exclusive dome stadium for the first time ever. A total of 132 bulls will compete, classified into three classes by size. There are about eight techniques employed in this type of bull wrestling.


Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival 04
There's a pushing technique that requires pure strength, a heading technique meaning head-butting which can be seen quite frequently during the fight, a neck attacking technique that requires a lot of skill, a side attacking technique which aims for the stomach that could deal a death blow to the other bull, a horn-locking technique that presses down the other bull, a horn-hitting technique that violently hits and shakes the other bull's horns, a lifting technique that locks one's head with the counterpart in attack and, finally, a sequence hitting technique in which horn-hitting is fast followed by head-butting to end the game.” 



Cheongdo Doju Cultural FestivalAnd now for another festival, the Doju Cultural Festival.
Cheongdo, was just a small town state called Iseoguk during the ancient three Han states. The region was the center of the Gaya Kingdom, which had a sophisticated civilization and advanced agricultural technology. During the era of the three Kingdoms, the area was the cradle of the Hwarang spirit, the force behind Silla's unification drive.


Unfortunately, there were no events that reflected the achievements of their forefathers, so as to pass down the great tradition of arts and culture. Although there have been few isolated efforts, they never developed into a festival that all Cheongdo residents could participate in and enjoy. In 1983, a discussion to hold a county-wide festival began, centered around the Cheongdo Arts Culture Research Center. It was decided that various cultural events, which had until then been held separately, would be staged collectively under the name Doju, which was the old name for Cheongdo. With the support from the county office and the Cheongdo Cultural Center, the first three-day Doju Cultural festival was held on October 1, 1983 in Cheongdo-gun and featured seven sections, which were a calligraphy fair, a custom parade, an art exhibition, a photo exhibition, a music festival and a drama festival. These events were supported by various art groups and art teachers in the country.


Cheongdo Hwayang Tug-of-War


The reason why the Hwayang tug-of-war came to represent the tug-of-war of the country's south-eastern region is because of the size, the long tradition, and unique origin of the event, and also the fact that it is not found in any other region.


Although the specific origin of the tug-of-war is not clear, it was a traditional game in which all the town folks participated in, to celebrate Jeongwoldaeboreum . Villagers are divided by east and west or north and south and people would foretell the result of that year's harvest by winning or losing.


The rope used in the tug-of-war had different names according to the times. In the 18th Century, it was called Dojujul, in the 19th Century, Yeongnamjul, and in the 20th Century Eupnaejul. In 1983 the rope got its current name "Hwayangjul".


In the 18th Century it was played to console the spirits in the Gangji region, outside the north gate of Hwayang-eup. In the 19th Century (1838) , many villagers from Miryang and Changnyeong participated in the folk game, making it one of the largest in the country; however, in the 20th Century (1914) , with the Japanese colonial rule, the participants dwindled and the play stopped altogether with the advent of the Korean War and the subsequent unrest.


The tug-of-war was revived under a new name "Hwayang" in 1983, and two years later on Jeongwoldaeboreum, 10,000 people joined in one of the longest rope tug-of- war ever. Since then, the folk game has been played, but then on a smaller scale, during the Doju Cultural festivals. The game was renamed Cheongdo Doju Tug-of-War during the 10th Cheongdo Doju Cultural festival held in 1997 to mark the local autonomy and to foster harmony amongst the county residents. It was the biggest tug-of-war in the world with 250,000 participants. The rope was more than 1-meter thick and 170-meters long. It took 1200 people 5 days and more than 100,000 bales of straw to make the rope.


Time for some sightseeing now! How about going into the mountains to get a feel of the cool mountain air? I have picked out the mountains where there are temples first so that we can kill a few birds with one stone. I shall also include other destinations that may be on the way so that we don’t waste time by backtracking again on another trip. The list is long and it is impossible to go to all the places listed in one day. Just think, how many mountains can you climb in one day? My list is meant as a guide so that you can choose the places you want to see and the places you want to skip.


So, the mountains without temples, I shall talk about them in my next post, together with the other stuff of things to do and see in Cheongdo. So are we ready?
Cheongdo Unmunsan(Mt.)

Mt. Unmunsan is a grand and graceful mountain that can be best viewed from local road #20, on that stretch between Donggok and Bangji. From here, the mountain looks generous and open. Another good place to take in the vista is from Mokgol, across a stream near the Thanks Samsung.). From  here, the mountain looks like a place where spirits might dwell, and the clouds across the mountain range make it look very mystical.


From Cheongdo to Unmunsa, there are two trails, through the Cheongmun valley and Mokgol valley. If you take the right ridgeline from Ttakbatjae you will meet Mt. Eoksan. Another trail up to the Unmunsa is from Bakgok-ri Geumcheon, through Daebisa(Temple) and up Mt. Eoksan.


There are many fantastic scenic beauties in the inner valley of Unmunsa in which the entrance is blocked to give the mountain a rest. Mokgol across the stream near Unmunsa is breathtakingly beautiful and the dense forest emits a wonderful aroma that makes people feel good.


From the summit one can have a magnificent view of the lower range  peaks below the clouds. The trails from Cheongdo are less crowded with people and therefore retain their pristine beauty which is truly a gift from Heaven.


Cheongdo Unmunsa Temple 02


The Unmunsa temple nestled in beautiful Mt. Unmunsan in Sinwon-ri is the most renowned temple in Cheongdo-gun.


Cheongdo Unmunsa Temple


The Unmunsa Temple was built in 560 during the Silla period. This ancient temple features seven treasured artifacts including an old pine tree (natural monument) and a stone lantern. There are four small temples (Sariam, Naewonam, Bukdaeam and Cheongsinam) around the temple. Meanwhile, the surrounding forest of pine and fir trees only enhances the temple’s beauty.

Unmunsa is the largest Buddhist nunnery in Korea, maintaining a capacity of roughly 260 nuns who practice Buddhism for four year periods.



Cheongdo Stone lantern in front of main hall of Unmunsa Stone lantern in front of main hall of Unmunsa(Temple), Treasure #193


The 258 centimeter high octagonal stone lamp, has the basic form of a standard Korean stone lamp. Made of a single stone block, the base and lower pedestal of the lantern is decorated with eight lotus petals, although the octagonal body has no decoration. The overall shape has a balanced beauty and features graceful sculptures. The ornamental lotus pattern represents the refined skills of craftsmen during the Unified Silla period (8th Century).


Cheongdo Monument to National Preceptor Woneungguksa at Unmunsa Monument to National Preceptor Woneungguksa at Unmunsa(Temple) Treasure #316

The stone head and supporting stone of the monument has corroded  over the years and only the plates, which split into three pieces, have been restored. The monument which is 2.3 meters high and 0.9 meters wide was set up in the year 1144 after Wangsa died at the age of 94. The King made him the nation’s master of Buddhist priests and gave him the name Woneung. He also ordered the erection of the monument to commemorate his achievements, including the construction of the Unmunsa.

Cheongdo Bronze jar of Unmunsa Bronze jar of Unmunsa(Temple)   Treasure #208



This hand-bell is in a square shape with four faces swelled in a round form on the whole. On each of the four faces of the shoulders, flowers are bolded and on faces of the main body, a dragon soaring into the clouds is bolded. The patterns on each face seem to have been made from a mold. There are also semicircles along the rim of the open-ended flare, to add some variety. The use of the jar is unknown but is believed to have been used as a fire tool. The 21 letters inscribed on the shoulder tells us that the jar was restored in 1067 during the Goryeo Dynasty. As an event-tool, it is not only elegant in shape but was also skillfully sculptured, and is the most excellent masterpiece of its kind, existing in Korea. Its origin is believed to have been back in the time of the late United Silla period or early Goryeo Kingdom.



Cheongdo Seated stone Buddha statue at Unmunsa
Seated stone Buddha statue at Unmunsa(Temple) Treasures #317


The hair is done in a curly nabal (a particular hairstyle of Buddha where the hair is twirled up and around in a seashell shaped fashion) and the yukgye (a protuberance on top of the head symbolizing supreme wisdom) , shaped like a topknot, is clear. The square shaped body and stone pedestal with lotus flowers carved in it are somewhat rigid in style. However, this Buddhist statue, with its undergarments showing under the beobui, plainly displays the style of the 900s after the Ninth Century.


Cheongdo Four Buddhist Guardian King Pillars at Unmunsa
Four Buddhist Guardian King Pillars at Unmunsa(Temple) Treasures #318


Four Buddhist guardian King Statues were positioned like stone pillars on ether side of a stone seated bodhisattva in Jakapjeon Hall. It is not like the original placement. They used to be on all four sides of the main stone on the first floor of the body of stone pagoda. Armed statues put on their armor, while they stepped on the devil with a brilliant look on the back. The bodies of the four Buddhist guardian King statue stone pillars were relatively large, but did not look massive due to the protruding engraving. It was assumed that they were built later, since the bodies look weak and have a gentle appearance. They are assumed to have been built during the late Unified Silla or the early Three Kingdoms period, in 900.


Cheongdo Three storied stone pagoda of Unmunsa Three storied stone pagoda of Unmunsa(Temple) Treasures #678


This pagoda was built around the Ninth Century. The pillar decoration is engraved on every storey of the platform. The images of the Eight Guardian Deities in sitting position, in particular, are engraved at the top story of the platform. The core stone has the pillar-pattern engraved in the corner. The roof stone keeps the eaves horizontal as being held by the five-layer strut.


Cheongdo Weeping red pine in Unmunsa Temple


The Weeping Japanese Red Pine in the precincts of Unmunsa Temple has branches drooping downwards and is very rare and valuable. This pine is growing in the front yard of Unmunsa Temple, but its age unknown. It is 6m tall and has a girth of 2.9m. It was named Bansong (a short pine tree whose branches spread widely from the trunk) because the branches are well spread out. But because the branches of this tree spread and grows downward at the height of 2m, it is in fact the Weeping Pine tree, and not the Bansong. It is believed to have been planted by a high priest.
Since this tree has a beautiful appearance and the typical shape of weeping pine tree and is also biologically valuable, it has been designated and protected as Natural Monument #180.



Cheongdo Daeungbojeon Hall of Unmunsa Daeungbojeon Hall of Unmunsa(Temple) Treasures #835

First built during the Silla period, Unmunsa has been repaired several times. The temple was moved to the present site in the 44th year of the reign of King Sukjong of Joseon (1718), when it was repaired for the fourth time. The Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) , which is 3 rooms wide and 3 rooms deep, was erected then. As the space between the columns of the hall is wider than that of other buildings, the hall has a larger floor space than other buildings of comparable dimensions. Unlike the heavily decorated bracketing of the late Joseon period, the hall's bracketing has a simple structure with less decoration. Inside the hall only one pillar is erected to support the ceiling, securing spacious room.

Cheongdo Seated stone buddha statue in Naewonam(Hermitage)
Seated Stone Buddha Statue in Naewonam(Hermitage) of Unmunsa(Temple) Cultural Asset Data #342


The Naewonam hermitage was founded by Woneung in 1694 and underwent expansion in 1831. However, the old building could not be located. The current hermitage was built on the same site in the 1930s. The statue is 87cm high and 56 cm wide. It is made with jade stones commonly found around Gyeonggju. The style is that of the 17th Century. A stone Buddha statue was rare in that period.


The Haksodae Falls
The grand and magnificent Mt. Unmunsan stands 1188 meters high along with Munboksan, Gajisan and Eoksan Mountains and is called the Alps of the southeastern region. Unmunsan means The Gateway to the Clouds and when clouds cover the mountains it looks as if it is a dwelling place for fairies. The falls in every valley impress visitors with their grandeur. The 25 meter high Haksodae falls can be reached from Unmunsa(temple). Follow Sariam valley for 2 Kilometers and take a trail to Gajisan for 4 kilometers to reach the waterfall.


Visitors feel cool on the hottest day of summer, just by standing at the entrance. There’s a crystal clear pond which is about 4 meters long. The name was given because many blue and red cranes (or hak) dwelt around the waterfall.


In mid May, peonies grow in the left valley of the waterfall. The peony, with its sweet fragrance and elegant shape and the crystal clear waters of the valley and Haksodae make a stunning vista.



Cheongdo Daebisa temple 02


The Daebisa temple is situated west of Unmunsa in Bakgok-ri, Geumcheon-myeon. A mountain sits in between these two temples.
The temple was built by a monk who came to Mt. Unmunsan in 557 AD. He started the construction 3 years later in 560 AD during the 21st year of the reign of King Jinheung of the Silla Dynasty. He completed the building of 5 temples. The Daebisa is one of the 5, called sojakgapsa or Dabigapsa in the west. It was one of the first temples to be expanded by Wongwang, the monk famous for his Five Rules taught at Hwarang in the Silla Dynasty in 600 AD.


There are many stories behind the origin of the name of the temple, Daebi. According to one of the stories, it was named after the Queen of the Silla Dynasty who came to stay in the temple for a while.
The temple which was originally situated in Bagkok-ri was moved to its current location during the Goryeo Dynasty.


Cheongdo Daebisa temple 01


The fact that many famous priests have visited and resided in the temple can be supported by 11 pagodas that hold their sari and remains, lined up at the foot of the mountain in the east.


Cheongdo Daeungjeon Hall of Daebisa Temple


The Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) of this temple has been designated  National Treasure #834. The hall, 3 rooms in width and 3 rooms in depth, has a gabled roof. The well-built hall has a sturdy framework of bracketing. The method and style of the bracketing, shows clearly the architectural trend of the early and mid Joseon period. An old writing found in the hall showed that it was repaired in 1685. The eaves are well bracketed in a typical multi-cluster style with brackets both on the column heads and on the tiebeams between the columns. Each set of brackets is two tiered outside the building and three tiered inside. The framework of the roof comprises five beams crossed by collar beams.



Cheongdo Biseulsan(Mt.)
     Mt. Biseulsan


The Biseulsan stand high in the bordering area between Dalseong-gun and Cheongdo-gun. It used to be called Posan. The hiking course that starts from Cheongdo-gun is not as well known, but has a charm that attracts many hikers. From Nakseong-ri, one can enjoy the pristine beauty of the mountain. This road leads to the Johwabong peak (1,058 meters) where the mountain's grand panorama and clean air make hikers feel that they have to come again.


Another hiking road, behind the Yongchonnsa(Temple), is steep but cuts climbing time and attracts many climbers with some experience in mountain climbing. Since ancient times, the mountains have been known as a mysterious place for studying and training. A folk tale has it that the mountains will produce one thousand saints.


Cheongdo Yongcheonsa Temple
Yongcheonsa is located on Mt. Biseulsan behind Osan-ri Gakbuk-myeon. It was founded by High Priest Uisang in 670 AD during the rule of King Munmu of Silla Dynasty. He called the temple Okcheonsa.
It was later repaired by Ilyeon, in 1267 during the Goryeo period and renamed it Bulilsa, and later to its present name of Yongcheonsa. The temple was burned by the Japanese troops during the Japanese Invasion. It was rebuilt in 1631 and then repaired in 1805.


It is said that more than 1000 monks studied in the temple and there were at least 47 hermitages during the period when Buddhism flourished. However, only Doseongam remains and Daeungjeon is retained from the Joseon Dynasty. Other buildings were constructed more recently. Many enthusiasts visit Biseulsan where the temple is located because of its picturesque scenery.


Cheongdo Namsangol Valley
      Namsangol Valley


2 Kilometers from Dongchoen, in Hwayangeup,  is the beautiful Namsangol Valley.
The Namsangol Valley features curious rocks, dense forests, and fresh water, and is very crowded especially in the summer.  You will be able to see old temples like the Jeokcheonsa, Sindunsa and Jukrimsa, together with a 900-year old gingko tree that was planted by the Priest Pojo. On the hottest day of the year, visitors feel cold once going into the valley and have to come out in less than 5 minutes. There are relics that show how scholars of old used to come to the valley to be with nature. A poem by a scholar best describes Namsangol valley.
With Sukgansu flowing, one can hear the sound of wind, birds and rain. Sitting here all day yearning for the high rock only gets deeper.


Cheongdo Jeokcheonsa Temple 02


High Priest Wonhyo founded the Jeokcheonsa Temple in the reign of King Munmu of the Silla Dynasty (664 AD) . Royal monk, Simji, third son of King Heungdeok of Silla, studied in the temple in 828 and oversaw the expansion project.


Cheongdo Jeokcheonsa Temple 01


Five hermitages including Baekryeonam, Okryeonam and Enjeokam were built during this time. In 1175, in the reign of King Myeongjong of Goryeo, high priest Bojo built Yeongsanjeon in the northeast of the temple where he emphasized the importance of meditation and prayer. This helped to produce many notable priests from the temple There is also a ginko tree believed to have been planted by Bojo. The temple was partially destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 16th Century. The present temple was the result of a renovation project in 1664.


A pagoda and Dosolam still remain at the temple site.
The pagoda which stands at the site of old Baekryeonam was erected in February of 1946 in the hope for the unification of Korea. 7 structures that store the remains and sarira of famous monks are lined up in front of the tower. They date back to the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties.
Legend says that there were thieves living on the site when Bojo tried to build the temple. He ordered them to move from the place. When they refused and tried to fight, the priest climbed the mountain and wrote the Chinese character for tiger on a leaf and threw it into the blowing wind. The leaf turned into a large tiger and chased away all the thieves. After that he built the temple on that site.


Cheongdo Gingko in Jeokcheonsa
Gingko Tree in Jeokcheonsa Temple, Cheongdo, in Won-ri, Cheongdo-eup   Natural Monuments #402.


The gingko tree in this temple, is about 800 years old. Its height is about 25.5m and its girth is about 8.7m. According to legend, in 1175, a Buddhist priest, Jinul, stuck his stick in the ground after he reconstructed the Jeokcheonsa Temple. And the stick took roots and grew into this big gingko tree. The gingko tree in the Jeokcheonsa Temple, has been well preserved.


Cheongdo Painting of avalokitesvara bodhisattva of Jeokcheonsa
Painting of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva of Jeokcheonsa(Temple) Tangible Cultural Assets #152


This is a ceremonial painting that is hung from a tall pole during Buddhist rituals. It is 16.3m long and 5.3m wide. The painting depicts Avalokitesvara (Gwaneumbosal), the Bodhisattva of Mercy, standing on a lotus pedestal and holding a lotus blossom. The painting was done in 1695. It seems that a flagpole was installed for hanging the painting, and the pole supports remaining on the temple grounds bear an inscription giving 1701 as its date of erection.


Cheongdo Wooden lokapalas of Jeokcheonsa Wooden Lokapalas of Jeokcheonsa(Temple) Tangible Cultural Assets #153


Each of the four wooden images of Sacheonwang or Lokapala, guardians of Buddhism and Buddhist temples, measures 340-380cm in height. Except for the identifying objects in their hands such as the lute, the sword, the pagoda and the jewel, the four figures are carved in the same way. All of them are trampling demons and wear jeweled crowns. The images are valuable not only because they are excellent works of art but also because Buddhist relics, as well as a record about their enshrinement, were retrieved from them. The relics include sarira (calcified remains of holy persons after cremation) , printing blocks for Buddhist scriptures, clothes, and Buddhist prints called dharani. Owing to the enshrinement record which gives the date of their making as in the 16th rule of King Sukjong1690, these Lokapalas serve as a standard for dating other images carved in the late Joseon period.

Cheongdo Sindunsa Temple 02


The Sindunsa(Temple) is situated deep in the Namsan Valley in Dongcheon-ri Hawyang-eup. Because of its quaint beauty, dense forest and clear air, it looks like fairies dwell here


The temple was founded by High Priest Bojo in 1173 during the Goryeo period and named it Bongrimsa. It was repaired in 1667 during the Joseon Dynasty.


Cheongdo Sindunsa Temple 01


It was in 1878 when the temple got the present name Sindunsa. It again underwent renovation in 1926.


The remaining buildings are believed to have been built in the mid-Joseon period and the Five-Storey Yeongngsan pagoda is recent edifice of Japanese colonial rule.


Cheongdo Jukrimsa Temple 01

Cheongdo Jukrimsa Temple 02


The Jukrimsa(Temple) is an ancient building that was constructed by Beopjeong in 610 AD during the Silla Dynasty. Located in the mid section of Mt. Namsan in Sinbong-ri Hwayang-eup, it was originally called Hwanamsa(Temple). At that time, Beopjeong traveled to Japan and spread the religion there upon the order of Queen Seondeok after founding the temple. The Queen was impressed by his achievements and ordered 900 bamboo trees to be planted around the temple. When the bamboo grew and the temple was surrounded by the forest, it was renamed Jukrimsa, meaning bamboo temple, and enjoyed much fame. The temple was repaired by Bojoguksa during the Goryeo Dynasty, then again in the early Joseon period. Daeungjeon, and other buildings, were burnt down during the Japanese invasion in the 16th Century and many building were rebuilt and are still standing.


The historical bamboo field has disappeared and only dozens remain to tell the story. The temple has been recently renovated.


Cheongdo Namsan(Mt.)


Mt. Namsan is the guardian mountain of Cheongdo. It is located on the boundaries of three towns over the three administrative units, of Cheongdo-eup, Hwayang-eup and Gaknam-myeon. Namsan has terrific surroundings and has relatively easy trails that take about 3 to 5 hours, which is ideal for families.
The 5-hour course that begins from Jukrimsa(Temple) is perfect for taking a good tour of the mountain. For the hike, it is best to prepare water from Jukrimsa because there are no other sources of water. About 30 minutes up the pine tree forest opens to a panoramic view of Cheongdo-eup and the surrounding lakes. About 2 hours climbing will get you to the peak of the mountain. On the summit is a large slab of stone erected by the Cheongdo mountain climbing organization. Coming down the mountain has quaint little trails that have perfect view of Cheongdo’s fames mountains. A trail to Hanjae valley is especially picturesque with flowers blooming in spring and the forest of reed in autumn making a breathtaking vista. In particular, the sunrise is among the most famous scenery in Cheongdo. From Bongsudae, you will find a trail to the Nakdae falls.


Cheongdo Nakdae Falls

The Nakdae Falls is a 30 meter high waterfall situated in the mid section of Mt. Namsan which is about 3 kilometers from Cheongdo Station. The falls make a spectacular vista surrounded by fantastic rocks and stones and thick forest. The water is said to be good for rheumatism


Cheongdo Hwaaksan(Mt.) (932m) and Cheolmasan(Mt.)(630m)
         Mt. Hwaaksan and Mt. Cheolmasan



Hwaaksan connects to Namsan through Bamtijae to the north. The fastest course from Cheongdo is to start from Sangsa town, go up to the Sanji farm and from there to take the left ridgeline to the south of the farm. The rigdeline is a tunnel of pine tree that it feels pleasant even in the middle of the day. Hwaaksan is on the boundary of Miryang, Gyeongsangnam-do and offers a clear view. From the summit towards Sangsari is a trail down. Take the right trail and it will lead you to Mt. Namsan from Bamtijae. Bamtijae trail has been made more recently and although it is steep, there is plenty of shade which makes for a pleasant hike. 60 minutes from the summit is Bamtijae, where you’ll see a signpost. Take the right path and walk for 40 minutes to get to Sangdon town in Cheongdo-eup. Behind the signpost is a small road to Namsan which takes about one hour. It is a very hard walk so be prepared. Namsan has a different marking on the map since Cheongdo people call the summit about 10 minutes from the peak marked on the map as Namsan. There is a 14 meter difference in height. From the summit, take the east ridgeline and it will take you to the best trail with gentle soil, foliage, and shade to make the hike most memorable. The trail will lead you to downtown Cheongdo-eup and past the Bohyeonsa(Temple). 


Mt. Cheolmasan is located between Pyongyang-ri and Miryang. You will reach the mountain by following the ridgeline from Mt. Hwaaksan. There is a remnant of a mountain wall that is believed to have been built before the Japanese invasion in the 16th Century. To get to Mt. Cheolmasan, take the left ridgeline on the way to Jung-ri from Pyeongyang-ri, Cheongdo-eup.

Cheongdo Bohyeonsa Temple 01

Cheongdo Bohyeonsa Temple 02


The Bohyeonsa(Temple) stands in the mid section of Wausan(Mt.), a part of the mountain range of Namsan(Mt.) in Gosu-ri, Cheongdo-eup. It was first built as a part of the Jeockcheonsa(temple) after the independence of Korea in 1950 but now it is an independent temple.


Cheongdo Yonggaksan(Mt.) (693m) and Seonuisan(Mt.) (756m)
    Mt. Yonggaksan and Mt. Seonuisan


Yonggaksan is 692.9 meters high and is located along Maejeon-myeon Cheongdo-eup and Namcheon-myeon Gyeongsan-si.


It is a major mountain that is a part of the magnificent Taebak Mountain Range. Yonggaksan is called Yonggak, or dragon’s horn, because it is shaped like one. A legend says that a dragon’s ascension occurred on this mountain peak and Yonggakmou is a view of the mountain seen in the evening when it is drizzling with the mountain covered in rainy mist seem to be right out of an oriental painting.


To the north is Seonuisan, which is 756.4 meters high and is connected by the mountain ridge. Seonuisan that borders Namcheon of Gyeongsangnam-do and Maejeon of Cheongdo was called Maeumsan(Mt.) by local villagers who call it because it makes one’s mind at peace when looking at the mountain. The name is also derived from the shape of the mountain which looks like a horse saddle.


Near Yonggaksan summit is a rock with a hole that is perfect for tying a horse to. A legend says that in ancient times, a general tied a brave horse to that rock and at times flew to Mt. Wausan. There’s also a dried up well called Yongsan which said to have been so deep that nobody could guess its depth. The trail connecting Yonggaksan to Seonuisan is gentle and has a beautiful field of reeds.


To go up the Yonggaksan, many use the trail to Gomti. From the summit of Gomti, take the left and walk for 4kilometers to reach the peak. From the top of Yonggak, you can get to Seonuisan by taking the north road.
The train tracks were removed in 1995 so that it is easier for hiking. The panoramic view of Cheongdo downtown from the summit of Yonggaksan is worth seeing.


Cheongdo Daeunam Hermitage 01


Daeunam(Hermitage) is situated in Mt. Yonggaksanin,  Yuho-ri, Cheongdo-eup. The panoramic view from the hermitage takes visitors breath away with its pristine beauty.


Cheongdo Daeunam Hermitage 02

The temple was founded by a monk who meditated at the site in 1969 during the late Joseon Dynasty. It was burnt to the ground in a fire in the 1900s but was later rebuilt.


In 1994, experts discovered the wooden bodhisattva statue and accompanying relics inside the statue had a high cultural value. The statue is rare because it is made of wood. There are not many left in the country due to fires and wars.


The statue stands 12 meters tall and 8 meters wide and wears a beautiful crown on its head. The robe is refined and graceful, and parts of the hair is let down to reach the shoulder which is a unique feature. Except for the patterns everything is made of wood. Two pieces of written records were found inside the statue which shows the date of the Buddha statue’s creation (1654), which is a huge discovery in studying Korea’s Buddhist art. In addition, a transcript of the Saddharmapundarika Sutra was found inside the statue. It is written in ancient Korean letters, offering important chance to study not only the sutra but the ancient letters of Korean. Other Sutras including 180 pages of the Darani Sutra and 200 pages of the Ksitigarbha purva-pranidhana sutra, along with the written date of the wooden block books were found here. According to the record the making of the books began in the winter of 1648 and completed in 1651. Other relics from the statue include a 5 cm in diameter, 7 cm in height sarira covered in a silk cloth.


Cheongdo Deoksa Temple 02

Deoksa is located on a cliff on Mt. Yonggak in Sora-ri, Hwayang-eup, and it has a panoramic view of downtown Cheongdo-eup.
The temple is believed to have built in the late Silla period or early Goryeo period. However, the details of the construction are unknown.
The temple underwent major repairs in the early Joseon Dynasty and the present buildings, as well as statues of Buddha, are from the early to mid Joseon period.


Cheongdo Deoksa Temple 01


The temple was built in this holy site because of the name of the mountain on which the temple is located, Mt. Jugusan. The name came about because it is shaped like a dog running away. According to Feng shi, it is bad luck to have a dog running away and it should be stopped and because dog likes rice cake, Tteok, the temple called Tteok temple was built to stop the dog from running away. With the flow of time and changes in pronunciation, the name Tteok eventually came to be called call Deok.


Cheongdo Bulyeongsa Temple
      Buryeongsa(Temple)


The Buryeongsa(Temple) lies deep within the Buryeong Valley and far inside Mt.Horangsan in Yongsan-ri Maejeon-myeon. The temple is believed to have been founded by High Monk Wonhyo during the Silla Dynasty. The temple’s known renovations are constructions done in 1912 and 1930. Currently, only the main hall, Chilseonggak, and Sanyeongak remain standing, as well as the five-storey Cheonbul pagoda on the huge stone table behind the temple.


Cheongdo Bulyeongsa Temple 01 
This brick pagoda, which was designated as Cultural Property Material 294 in 1994, is believed to date back to the United Silla period. It is called Cheonbul because many patterns of Buddha and pagodas are engraved in each brick.


Cheongdo Three Storied Stone Pagoda of Jangyeonsa Temple
Three storied Stone Pagoda of Jangyeonsa Temple site Treasures #677


The pagoda was erected during the Unified Silla period. The west pagoda, which collapsed and lay around near the riverbanks, was reconstructed in the same location in February during the restoration work in 1984, a sarira container and blue sarira jar were discovered in the east pagoda. They are now exhibited at the Seoul National Museum. The pagoda’s platform, which is 4.8 m high with 1.56 m high in twin pagoda platform, features typical characteristics of Silla stone pagoda platform with only two-pillar decoration in each side and has no other decorations.


Cheongdo DaesansaTempleThe Daesansa Temple located in Mt. Woleunsan in Oksan-ri, Gaknam-myeon was called Yongbongam or Yongbongsa. The temple is said to have been founded by High priest Wonhyo in 830 AD, but that fact has not been verified.


According to the legend, one of the three Cheonsu Bodhisattva statues that swept to land from the south sea was placed in the Daesansa and one in Unmunsa while the last one was lost forever.


The temple was repaired after it was burned to the ground in a fire in the mid-Joseon Dynasty. It was renovated again in 1876 and renamed Daesansa. It underwent several repairs. Cheonsu Bodhisattva statue was damaged in the fire in 1930 and even the damaged statue got lost.


The remaining buildings are Wontongjeon, Chilseonggak and Sanryeongak that were repaired after the fire of 1930. There is a stone pagoda that’s shaped like a wild boar. The humorous sculpture captures the attraction of tourists.


And so I’ve come to the end of my post today. If you want to learn more about Cheongdo, don’t forget to stop by again.







Special thanks and appreciation to the following:
Photos and articles © courtesy


http://english.cheongdo.go.kr/                    http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=806234  http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Ceremonies/ceremonies.cfm?EventID=32

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