Discovering Daegu Metropolitan City Part 1

We shall be visiting the colourful Metropolitan City of Daegu or Taegu today. What’s a metropolitan city? "Metropolitan cities", are major cities that are not part of any province, but exist independently and are self-governed. South Korea has 6 metropolitan cities with provincial status, Busan, Incheon, Daegu, Gwangju, Daejeon and Ulsan. Each Metropolitan City is then divided into wards ("gu") and outlying counties ("gun").

The city of Daegu is regarded as the third largest metropolitan area of South Korea only after Seoul and Busan, and by city limits the fourth largest city with over 2.5 million people. The city is the capital and principal city of Gyeongsangbuk-do, the province surrounding the city, although it is not legally part of the province. These two areas are often called Daegu-Gyeongbuk, and have a population of over 5 million.

The city has developed fast and has upgraded every facility for better living and of course with better tourism facilities. But, most parts of the city still has a feeling of the countryside, much to the delight of the tourists who get the feel of the rural lifestyle being in the heart of a developed city.

An independent metropolitan city, it is a transportation hub, a major industrial center, and a primary collection and distribution point for an extensive agricultural and mining region.

The city is located in south-eastern Korea about 80km inside from the seacoast, near the Geumho River and its mainstream, the Nakdong River in Gyeongsang-do, also called the Yeongnam region. The Daegu basin, where the city lies, is the middle part and rare plain of that region. It made the city the region's centre of politics, economy, and culture. Today, the city has become one of the major cities of Korea and is making efforts to be the centre of the fashion and high-tech industries.

The city of Daegu is encircled by mountains often providing an amazing view of the cloud covered peaks and the white snow capped mountains. The city is considered to be one of the most beautiful places of the blissful Korean kingdom. The northern front of the Palgong-san area and the Ap-san area to the south provides the two poles dotted with spectacular sights of the smog-less mountains encircling the city.

Daegu is the major textile producer of South Korea. This region is considered as the largest producers of cloth and clothing. It is also the major centre for machines and machine industries. The city is truly regarded as the 'city of hope' as it also brings in the wish of better agricultural produce with its various farmlands. Daegu is the major Apple producer of South Korea.

Flag   Emblem of Daegu
Flower	Magnolia
Tree	Fir
Bird	Eagle

There are so many things to see and do here in Daegu, temples, cultural properties/assets, mountains, Confucian Academies, hot springs, famous old houses, resorts, and museums just to name a few.

So, where shall we start first? I always like to start with the cultural sightseeing first, so why don’t we go visit a few temples and also collect some treasures at the same time.





The Donghwasa Temple is located at the foot of Mt. Palgongsan , about 22km northeast of Daegu. It was built by monk Geukdal in the 15th year of the Silla King SoJi’s reign in 493. The original name of the temple was Yugasa, but Simjiwongsa rebuilt the temple under King HeungDeok (reign 826~836) and renamed it Donghwasa. It means even during the winter season, the paulownia tree still blooms.

The temple is recorded to have been reconstructed eight times and the present facilities are believed to have been rebuilt in the late Joseon period (1392 – 1910).

There are more than ten cultural assets to be found here at the temple and the six satellite temples of Donghwasa, - the Geumdangam, Biroam, Budoam, Yeomburam, Yangjinam, and Naewonam Hermitages.

A 33metre high Tongilyaksdaebul Buddha was built recently hoping for the reunification of the Korean Peninsula. Currently, Donghwasa is the 9th head temple of the Korean Jogyejong Buddhist Order. 

Donghwasaipgumaaebuljwasang (Rock-Relief Seated Buddha Near The Entrance Of Donghwasa Temple) Treasures #243

This is a Buddhist statue carved out of a stone wall to the right of the entrance of Donghwasa Temple. This Buddhist statue, located high above the ground, is unique because it looks as if it is coming down from the sky. The plump face, the proportioning of the body, the positioning of the hands in the mudra (symbolic hand gesture) of expelling evil, and the way the robe is draped over both shoulders are all in a style typical of ninth-century Buddhas.

There are three wrinkles in the neck and the shoulders are square. The right hand is on top of the knee and pointing downwards. The left hand is held in front of the belly button with the palm facing up. The Beobui (sacerdotal robes), covering both shoulders, has thin parallel folds at regular intervals. The mandorla (Buddhist halo of light), which gives form to the light coming from the body, is in the shape of a boat. The edges have burning spark patterns and the Dugwang (light coming from the head) and the Singwang (light coming from the body) are distinguished by two lines. The pedestal is on top of a cloud. However, the lotus design engraved on the pedestal, the complex flame design of the nimbus, the clustered folds of the robe, and the somewhat formal rendering of the body are in a style dating to the latter years of the Unified Silla period (668-935). This is considered on outstanding example of Buddhist art.

 The Daeungjeon Hall in Donghwasa Temple (Local Tangible Properties #10)

This main hall in the Donghwasa Temple is recorded to have been reconstructed several times since it was first established in the Silla period (57B.C. to 935 A.D.) The present facilities are believed to have been reconstructed between 1727 and 1732 in the late Joseon period. The sharply carved ox tongue and ornately carved bracket arms finished with lotus buds are typical of the architecture of that time. The building is noted for the latticed doors with colorfully arranged circle of flowers and the corner pillars which are undressed chunks of ancient trees.

The Donghwasageungnakjeon(Geungnakjeon Hall of Donghwasa Temple) Tangible Cultural Properties  #11 

This hall dedicated to Amitabha, the Buddha of the Western Paradise, is believed to have been constructed during the reign of King Sukjong(1674-1720) of Joseon(1392-1910).

It is a five by three kan building with a hipped-and-gabled roof. The eaves are bracketed in a multi-cluster style in a typical mid-Joseon way as evidenced by the blunt ox-tongue brackets and the bracket arms that are almost straight. The building is most noted for the stone foundation which is constructed in an ancient Silla style with a gentle slant towards the edges. The way the cover stones, the square plinths and lintel stones, all of which are original, are laid also indicates the influence of Silla architecture

     Donghwasasumajejeon(Sumajejeon Hall of Donghwasa Temple Cultural Properties Materials  #16 

The Stupas of Donghwasa Temple, Daegu, (Local Tangible Cultural Property #12) is a series of ten Stupas that were erected to preserve the remains of revered monks, mostly from the end of the 17th century through the early 18th century. All the ten Stupas are in good condition, and are made of granite. The Stupas of Donghwasa Temple, Daegu measure from 1.41m to 3.32m in height, with their foundations being 0.25m to 0.83m thick

The names of the various monks who are enshrined at the Stupas of Donghwasa Temple, Daegu, and the dates of erection of the Stupas are –

  -  Haejeongdaesa (1839)
  -  Jewoldaesa (1927)
  -  Giseongdaesa (1764)
  -  Chukjondaesa (1700)
  -  Goundang (1676)
  -  Hamudang (1720), an unknown monk
  -  Jeongwondaesa (1709)
  -  Geungnindaesa (1692)
  -  Gohandang (date unknown)

 Donghwasadangganjiju (Flagpole supports of Donghwasa Temple), Treasures  #254

The Stone Posts of Donghwasa Temple, Daegu, are a major part of the Donghwasa Temple. These are two stone pillars that are situated in the Donghwasa Temple, near the Geumdang-am building. The purpose of these stone posts is to support banner poles, and used to hoist flagpole during special occasions, and during the time when big events are held at the Donghwasa temple.

These flagpole supports, which are 66cms apart, are believed to have been erected in the latter years of the Unified Silla period (668-935) when the Donghwasa Temple was built.

An inscription inside the temple says that it was founded by Priest Simjiwangsa in the seventh year of King Heungdeok(832), and the sculptural details of the supports, such as the rounding of the edges and the vertical linear patterns, conform to that time. The square indentions and round holes were to hold levers for locking the flagpole in place.

Donghwasabiroamseokjobirojanabuljwasang (Seated Stone Vairocana Buddha Statue Of Biroam Hermitage Of Donghwasa Temple) Treasures #244

This is a good example of Vairocana Buddha statues that were popular during the ninth century. It has both the pedestal and mandorla (Buddhist halo of light) and it is hardly damaged. The round plump face has small eyes, nose, and mouth. It is not smiling, but it is elegant. The shoulders are noticeably small, the chest is flat, and the lower body is also dull. This is typical of Buddhist statues made during the mid ninth century.

The right hand is covering the left index finger, which is the normal posture of Vairocana Buddha statues. The Beobui (sacerdotal robes), covering both shoulders, has thin parallel folds at regular intervals. The mandorla (Buddhist halo of light), which gives form to the light coming from the body, is shaped like a boat. The edges are shaped like burning spark patterns.
There is a Buddhist Triad at the top of the mandorla, and eight Buddhist images are arranged on either side. It was made to commemorate King Minae during the reign of King Gyeongmun. This was supposedly created at the same time as the Three Storey Stone Pagoda (Treasure #247), which was built to pray for the soul of King Minae.

Donghwasabiroamsamcheungseoktap(Three Storied Stone Pagoda near Biroam Hermitage of Donghwasa Temple)Treasure #247

This three-storied stone pagoda stands in front of Daejeokgwangjeon Hall, the main hall of Biroam Hermitage, which belongs to the Donghwasa Temple. The pagoda, also called Minaedaewang Pagoda, is of the Unified Silla period (668-935).

The pagoda is erected on a double-tiered stone base prepared on an earthen platform. This is composed of a base, a three-storied main body and a capstone. The corner and central pillars are carved on the surfaces of the middle base which is made of a single stone, while each of the upper and lower bases are made up of four stone plates.


The body and the roof of each story are also made of a single stone block and decorated with the four-stepped cornice. The straight eaves are gently turned upward at all corners, a basic style of the Silla stone pagoda.

The entire structure gradually decreases in size from bottom to top, creating a sense of balance and stability. Of the ornamental top portion, only a base, an inverted bowl and the “jewel” (a bead-like ornament which symbolizes the dragon's magic pearl) remain. The bowl is carved with a ribbon and flower-like pattern and the “jewel” with lotus petals.

The use of multi-props to support each storey and the gentle upturn of the eaves indicate that it is the work made during the last years of the Silla Dynasty. During repairs in 1967, a sarira hole was found on top of the first storey. The hole held a part of a gilt-bronze container and a miniature gold-leafed wooden pagoda. However some of the sarira relics of Buddha were stolen during the repairs. It was discovered from the inscription found on the inner surface of the sarira chamber that the pagoda was built in the third year of King Gyeongmun's reign (863) of Silla, in memory of King Minaewang.

Donghwasageumdangamsamcheungseoktap(Three Storied Stone Pagoda Near Geumdangam Hermitage of Donghwasa Temple) Treasures #248

Exhibiting the same skills of masonry, these two pagodas are outstanding works of the late Unified Silla period(668-935). These two pagodas stand at both sides of Geungnakjeon, the main hall of Geumdangam Hermitage which is a branch temple of the Donghwasa Temple. The body and the roof of each storey of the eastern pagoda, lost its balance and harmony during the repair work done later, are made from a single stone. The roof stones have little holes at each corner to hang wind bells.

Each storey and each roof of the eastern pagoda is made from a single stone. The corner shafts of each story provide only visual support, for, like the tiers and rafters of each roof, they are carved into the stone. The ornamental top portion consists of a base, an inverted bowl, a flower, and a jewel, all made of stone.
Though very similar, the western pagoda has a double foundation and is topped with a base square stone and an iron pole. Like the eastern pagoda, each story and each roof are of a single stone and the corner shafts and centre pillars are carved on the double foundation.

When the pagoda was repaired in 1957, a sarira chamber and 99 miniature pagodas were discovered in the body of the first storey.

Buddhism did not receive its due respect during the Josean era (1392-1910). In order to save themselves from being persecuted the Buddhist monks took refuge in the mountain temples. Donghwasa temple which houses a cluster of buildings around a central courtyard with the main worship hall facing the center bears testimony to this fact.

 
Donghwasayeomburammaaeyeoraejwasangmitbosaljwasang (Reliefs of Seated Buddha and Bodhisattva of Yeomburam Hermitage in Donghwasa Temple) Tangible Cultural Properties #14 is now a very popular tourist attraction. They are the two Buddhas engraved on the surface of a giant rock. The 4-meter tall Buddha, dates back to the Unified Silla period (668-935). The Buddha is seated cross-legged on a lotus pedestal. Clouds have been carved just below the pedestal to add that godly touch.


Another 4.5 meter tall Buddha decorates the southern face of the rock. Though seated, the position of the legs are not seen because they are covered by the long robe. This figure is presumed to have been carved during the Goryeo period (918-1392).

 The Pagoda of Yeomburam Hermitage, Donghwasa Temple (Local Tangible Cultural Property #19)

Only the roof stones remain of the pagoda that once stood here in ancient times. Built with slate stones, the pagoda seems to have had no regular foundation except for a base stone that has no decoration. Each of the roof stones has a two-stepped cornice under it and a capstone to support the body above it. The thin roof stones with a slow incline and a sharp upward curve at the four corners are reminiscent of the slate stone pagoda in the Wondangam Hermitage of the Haeinsa Temple which was constructed during the Goryeo period(918-1392). The pagoda was placed on a large base stone, which must have given it a sense of stability even though each roof stone was only slightly smaller than the one below it.

Let’s now visit the The Pagyesa Temple, which is famous for the magnificent valley surrounding it.

The Pagyesa Temple, Daegu is an auxiliary to the Donghwasa temple, and was established in 804 by Royal Preceptor Simjiwangsa of the Silla Kingdom, during the reign of the Silla king Aejang. It was built on a densely wooded hill in northeast Daegu, then later reconstructed by the Buddhist priest, Gyegwanbeopsa in 1605. In 1695, it was rebuilt all over again by the Buddhist Monk, Hyeon-ungjosa. As a result, most of the structures of the Pagyesa Temple, Daegu are quite new and modern. Yet, it still has a sense of the old and ancient to it, which makes it a wonderful place to visit.

While Buinsa-temple is closely related with Queen Seondeok of the Shilla Dynasty, Pagyesa-temple has a close relationship with the Great King Yeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty.

It seems that King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty once dreamt about a monk coming into the palace. The dream was so vivid that he let one of his servants to go in search for the monk. It so happened that a monk was taking a rest in front of the palace south gate. It was none other than Yeongwonseonsa of the Pagyesa-temple.

King Sukjong thought it strange so he asked Yeongwonseonsa to pray for 100 days asking for the birth of a prince. A prince was born the following year, who was to become the Great King Yeongjo later on. Sukjong was very happy and endowed Yeongwonseonsa with the title of Hyeoneung.

Hyeoneung was a wise and intelligent priest. At that time, priests of the Pagyesa-temple were under difficulty due to oppression by the Confucian scholars. He asked King Sukjong to allow him to enshrine the royal ancestral tablets in the temple, which successfully stopped the contemporary oppression of Confucians on the Buddhist temple.

The Pagyesa Temple, Daegu holds many relics within its precincts. The following is a list of these famous treasures: –

 

 Yeongjodaewanguidopo Full Dress of King Yeongjo) Important Folklore Materials #220

This is the Dopo of King Yeongjo (Korean full-dress attire in olden days). Dopo is a formal dress that was put on by a King or a high government official. It was found in the Wontongjeon Hall of Pagyesa Temple in 1979 when they re-painted the image of the Goddess of Mercy, with gold paint. 



According to a note they found written on a roll of Korean paper, together with the Dopo, King Yeongjo donated 1000 pieces of Taenghwa (an altar portrait of Buddha) and this Dopo to charity. It had wide sleeves called Duri, and a square shaped collar known as the Banmokpan collar. It showed that the Dopo put on by the common people and the royal family were of different styles.

Daegupagyesamokgwaneumbosaljwasang (Seated Wooden Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva at Pagyesa Temple, Daegu) (Treasure #992)

The Seated Wooden Buddha in Pagyesa Temple, Daegu was enshrined alone within a glass box in the Wontongjeon Hall, a main hall of the Pagyesa Temple. The triple high crown with a flower pattern is put on the head of the statue. The sculpture of the statue shows that the right hand of the Buddha is raised to the shoulder with thumb and second finger touching each other with the palm outward and the left hand is raised a little with the palm upward and the thumb and second finger just about touched on each other. The collar of this statue shows the influence of the earlier age and an impressive decoration covering the whole body such as chest, two arms, knees etc., old style of wave pattern under the knees.

Pagyesayeongsanhoesangdo (Buddhist Painting of Pagyesa Temple) Treasures  #1214

Yeongsanhoesangdo refers to the painting, which depicts the scene of Buddha preaching a sermon to his disciples. It is a silk painting, with Buddha in the center of the picture, surrounded by many Bodhisavtta, Buddhist saints, and his followers.

It looks bright and splendid because red and green colors were mainly used. The gold color of the robes is very magnificent.
It has several of its own characteristics, which distinguish it from other paintings.
It depicted only the Singwang, the back halo, unlike other Buddhist paintings in the Joseon Dynasty that depicted both the Singwang and Dugwang, the halo behind the head. There is no 田-shaped pattern on the robes. There is no flower ornament on Buddha's left ankle. The skillful artwork and magnificent colors, make it the best Buddhist painting of the 18th century.

Based on the record written beneath the Sumidan or the altar, it was made upon the orders from the royal family in 1707 or the 33rd year of King Sukjong in the Joseon Dynasty.

The famous halls in the Pagyesa Temple, Daegu, include:-

 

Pagyesaseolseondang (Seolseondang Hall of Pagyesa Temple) Cultural Properties Materials #7

  Pagyesasallyeonggak (Sallyeonggak Hall of Pagyesa Temple) Cultural Properties Materials  #8

 Pagyesajeongmukdang (Jeongmukdang Hall of Pagyesa Temple) Cultural Properties Materials  #9

 

Pagyesajindongnu (Jindongnu Pavilion of Pagyesa Temple Cultural Properties Materials  #10 

Pagyesagiyeonggak (Giyeonggak Hall of Pagyesa Temple) Cultural Properties Materials  #11

Pagyesawontongjeon (Wontongjeon Hall of Pagyesa Temple)

The Wontongjeon hall, also called Gwaneumjeon, is the main hall in the Pagyesa Temple. This hall was reconstructed in 1605 by Monk Gyegwanbeopsa after the building was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592.

The present hall was reconstructed by Monk Hyeoneungjosa in 1695. It is a three by three kan structure with a gabled roof and round pillars supported by undressed natural stones. The eaves are bracketed in a multi-cluster style typical of the late Joseon period architecture.

 Buinsa Temple Daegu

Buinsa Temple was founded as an affiliate temple of the Donghwasa Temple in the 7th century. The temple was well known as  the memorial temple for Queen Seondeok of the Silla Kingdom.  "Seondeokmyo"  a shrine of Queen Seondeok was built in honor of her on the premises of the temple and a memorial ritual is still held in the third lunar  month. During the Goryeo Dynasty, the preliminary wood carvings of the Tripitaka had been kept in this temple but it is lost now. The Tripitaka  is known to have been completed 200 years ahead of the Tripitaka  Koreana in the Haeinsa Temple.

Buinsaseotap West Pagoda of Buinsa Temple, (Local Tangible Cultural Property #17) 

This pagoda stands in a line with the Stone Lantern in the Buinsa Temple. There used to be two identical pagodas here but only this west one was restored in 1964. It is in the typical pagoda style with a two-stepped foundation and a three-storey body. The two pagodas are believed to have been oringinally constructed during the Unified Silla period (668 - 935).

Stone Lantern of Buinsa Temple (Tangible Cultural Properties  #16) 

The stone lantern, which is basically octagonal in shape, dates from the Unified Silla period (668-935). It has been well preserved except for the finial, which is missing. The lamp comprises of a square foundation with decorative panels carved on the sides, a pedestal base in the form of an eight-petal inverted lotus blossom, an eight-sided pedestal which upholds another eight-petal lotus blossom that serves as the base of the octagonal light chamber. It is topped by an eight-sided roof carved from a single stone. The top of the roof stone is decorated with more lotus petals engraved at the center where the finial stood. The lamp is noted for its balanced beauty and its deeply overhanging, thin eaves which curve upward elegantly

Buinsabudo (Stupa of Buinsa Temple) Tangible Cultural Properties  #28 

 Three-storied Pagoda in Yongyeonsa Temple, Cultural Materials #28

This Stone Pagoda stands in front of the Geungnakjeon Hall, located in the Yongyeonsa Temple. This pagoda is presumed to be one of the Goryeo Dynasty style.

 Stupas in the Yongyeonsa Temple

A Buddhist Monk, Boyanghwasang founded the stone bell-shaped funerary stupa in the Yongyeonsa Temple in 914. The altar is surrounded with the stone parapet, which also serves as the boundary of the pagoda. It enshrined Buddha sarira brought from China to the Silla Kingdom by the Buddhist Monk Jajangbeopsa when he returned home during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla. The sarira initially kept in the Tongdosa Temple, was briefly lost during the 1592 Japanese invasion. Retrieved by Monk Yujeongdaesa, the sarira was to be enshrined here by his pupil, CheongJin on the order of Monk Yujeongdaesa. There are seven stupas in the premise of the Yongyeonsa Temple and another five stupas in the 300-meter area west of the temple.

And now we’ve come to our last temple for the day, the Yugasa Temple.



The Yugasa Temple, located deep in the valley of Mt. Biseulsan, was founded by a Buddhist teacher Doseongguksa in 827 AD. There are a lot of folk tales related to Doseongguksa in Mt. Biseulsan. This temple is a good place for meditation due to its quietness. Various shapes of peaks and rock cliffs surround the temple like a screen.



The Three-storey Pagoda in Yugasa Temple, Daegu is one of the “must see” spots in this South Korean city of Daegu. People come here not only with a view to enjoying the religious essence of this Buddhist temple, but also with an urge to enjoy the magnificent surroundings of this temple, where nature seems to bloom at her most.  



In the midst of these temples you’ll find a Catholic church, the Gyesan Cathedral, Daegu which is located at 71 Gyesan2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu.

The previous building of this Gyesan Cathedral, Daegu was a Korean-style hall constructed in the year 1900. This Catholic cathedral was burnt down in 1901. However, creation was not demolished; and the recent church building is proof of that. In the year 1902, Seo Sang-don, Kim Jong-hak and Jeong Gyu-ok helped Priest Robert construct a brick building in the Gothic style. So during this process Daegu witnessed a shift in sculpture from Korean style to Gothic style. In the year 1903, the church was completed as the first Gothic-style church in the Yeongnam region and the third in Korea following Seoul and Pyeongyang. However, the total construction of this cathedral was only completed in the year 1918. The owner of Gyesan Cathedral, Daegu is Daegu Catholic Church Management Foundation. Today this cathedral has been designated as Historic Site #290.

Talking about churches, did you know that Seoul is home to the #1 church in the world where size is concerned, with a membership of 830,000 (as of 2007).


The Pentecostal (Assemblies of God) Yoido Full Gospel Church, on an island on the south side of Seoul, which is comparable to Manhattan, is a gigantic building that is shaped like a huge baseball stadium.

 They are so heavily attended that people often arrive an hour early just to get a seat, every Sunday there is at least 800,000 people in attendance. Just look at the congregation. I understand that they hold more than one service per day.
And with that I shall leave you now. Have a happy weekend.



Special thanks and appreciation to the following:
Photos and articles © courtesy

Abraham C. Ahn and Timothy M. Ciccone
http://english.daegu.go.kr
http://www.asiarooms.com/travel-guide
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daegu
http://www.ambassador4christ.org/yoido_church.html
http://www.answers.com/topic/daegu
http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english
http://www.asiarooms.com/travel-guide/south-korea/daegu