So today I shall continue with the rest of the Gyeongju Historic Areas starting with the Wolseong Belt. But before that I would like to add something more about the royal tombs which I had inadvertently left out in my previous post.
I want to take you to the Tumuli Park, right in the center of town, which consists of three groups of royal tombs. Most of the tumuli are shaped like domes or mounds of earth. However, some are shaped like gourds or half-moons. Excavated tombs reveal wooden coffins covered with gravel and rich grave goods of gold, glass, and quality ceramics.
The tombs of the rulers of Silla are all located within the boundaries of Gyeongju. The identity of the ruler is known in many cases, particularly for the later rulers. However, many of the older tombs found in the Royal Tombs Complex cannot be conclusively tied to any ruler. Partly for this reason, many of the tombs are known by the names of notable artifacts excavated there. A famous example of such a tomb in this park is the Heavenly Horse Tomb which contained a mural painting on a birch bark saddle flap of a winged horse.
Large ancient tombs of kings and noblemen of the Silla Dynasty can be seen around Gyeongju at the Daereung-won Tumuli Park. There are twenty-three large tombs located here; the most famous being the Cheonmachong and the Hwangnamdaechong.
The Hwangnamdaechong, is the largest in the area (23m/7.5ft high and 123m/41ft long) and was the tomb of a king and queen, most likely King Soji and his wife, who were buried around A.D. 500. With over 30,000 relics, like earrings, glass beads, and a magnificent crown of gold, archaeologists are able to get a sense of the extravagant lifestyles of the Shilla royalty. The unique thing about Hwangnamdaechong is that the queen's tomb has more luxurious accessories. From that researchers have concluded that even the queen can have a high social position before marriage. You can feel the ancient culture of Korea 1,500 years ago when visiting these tombs.
Of the various round burial mounds only the Cheongmachong (Heavenly Horse) Tomb has been excavated. The excavation of this tomb, presumed to be from the 5th century, revealed over 10,000 treasures inside.
Artifacts such as golden jewellery, beads, a sword, belts, and shoes were also amongst those found. The most important find was a gold belt about 125 centimeters long, probably worn by the king. Also found was an unglazed stoneware pot with a dragon head and turtle body, which probably once functioned as a lamp.
Within the area of the coffin the greatest discovery was a sword 98 cm long. long and a chest containing personal effects of the ruler. A painting of a galloping horse in the treasure chest is regarded as the most significant find—giving the tomb its name "heavenly horse.” This painting is the only discovered painting from the Silla Era. In style the painting resembles the murals found in the Goguryeo tombs of northern Korea. The horse is a favorite motif of Asian nomadic tribes, who used horses on the plains of the northern Korean peninsula
Today, the tomb has been hollowed out and vaulted with river stones. The coffin has been re-interred where it was found, and visitors can step into the tomb to have a look.
Numerous tombs of later and earlier rulers surround this tomb. many of which have not been excavated.
Geumgwanchong, located in Noseo-dong, Gyeongju, is a tomb of the Silla Dynasty. It is one of the three tombs in downtown Gyeongju that belongs to the Noseo-dong Tomb district.
Geumgwanchong Tomb is regarded as the tomb of a king before or after the reign of King Ji-Jeung during the early 6th century (500~514). It is not known exactly to whom this tomb belongs.
was found in September 1921, the first relic found in this tomb was a gold crown, the 'Geumgwan' from where the tomb took its name. Ornaments such as gold belts, earings, bracelets, saddlers and crockery of the Three Kingdoms Era (when Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla were separated, later unified by Silla in 676 AD) were dug up from the tomb. There were numerous relics, with beaded relics alone numbering over 30,000. The original structure of Geumgwanchong was 13m high with a 50m diameter. The relics of this tomb were moved and are preserved at the Gyeongju National Museum.
Not all of the Silla-era tombs are royal. The tomb of the general Kim Yu-sin is located on one of the low mountains surrounding the Gyeongju Basin.
At age 35, father and son marched into battle to seize the Goguryeo fort of Nangbisong. Later he married the sister of his friend Kim Chunchu, which proved to be a fortuitous move when Kim Chunchu succeeded to the throne as King Muyeol in 653. Previously Kim Chunchu had been a diplomat responsible for foreign relations, and as King, he used his contacts with Tang China to establish an alliance against Baekje and Goguryeo, Silla's chief rivals. Kim Yusin supported this policy and joined with General Su Dingfang of Tang in a two-pronged attack against Goguryeo and Baekje. Tang troops first gained a toehold on the west coast of Korea, thrusting deep into Baekje territory, as General Kim led the land assault from the East. Baekje quickly fell. Next, the two generals cooperated in the subjugation of Goguryeo, the more northerly of the two kingdoms
The long supply lines from China created problems for the Tang army as it marched north. As food supplies dwindled, General Kim organized a massive rice relief for the army. The arrival of food raised their morale, allowing the Tang army to besiege Pyongyang by winter 661.
Around this time General Kim fell ill and had to retire from active duty. He lived long enough to see the unification, however, passing away at the age of 78 in the year 673. Kim is perhaps the most revered of all Korean generals, respected even in his lifetime. His kingly tomb attests to his high standing in the eyes of the Silla court and the Korean people.
A notable tomb outside the usual historical precincts of Gyeongju is that of King Munmu, who was buried at sea just off the coast of Yangbuk-myeon.
On the way from Gyeongju to Bonggil-ri, the sight of the vast blue sea spread before your eyes will leave you breathless. As you gaze at the glittering blue sea, a small but particularly beautiful islet catches your eye. This little rocky islet is the Underwater Tomb of King Munmu (661-681 A.D.), who unified the three kingdoms and became the 30th ruler of the Silla Kingdom. The king gave specific instructions to be buried in the East Sea after his death so that he would become a dragon and protect Silla from Japanese intruders. The rocky island, about 200m in circumference, is divided by a cross-shaped waterway, forming a pool at the center, at the bottom of which is a granite 3.6 meters long, 2.9 meters wide and 0.9 meters thick. Legend has it that the remains of King Munmu’s cremated body are buried under this rock. Historians still debate whether the ashes of the King Munmu were scattered or stored in an urn and placed under the granite. The beauty of the landscape of the underwater tomb reaches its peak in autumn.
The Wolseong Belt has preserved the ruins of the royal house during the Silla Dynasty. Walking through Gyerim forest, the pavilions in Anapji Pond, Banwolseong Fortress and Cheomseongdae Observatory bring the 1,000-year-old capital back to life.
- Royal Tomb of King Naemul, Gyerim Forest, and Wolseong Fortress site
- Ch'omsongdae (Astronomical Observatory)
- Anapji Pond
This is the royal tomb of King Naemul, the 17th king of Silla, who died in 401 A.D.
It is one of approximately 200 Silla tombs scattered in Gyeongju City, and is adjacent to the west of Gyerim Fortress.
It has an early five-tomb style with only a large round mound on the ground. Different mounds with the same style are scattered around this tomb, and the nearby royal tomb of King Michu also has the same type of mound.
Gyerim Fortress is near the Cheomseongdae Observatory, the Royal Observatory, in the north, thus giving it a peaceful and profound historic feeling as a tranquil forest at the center of the entire area.
It was originally called Sirim, but was called Gyerim after a white rooster crowed there and heralded the birth of a precious son (Kim Al-Ji) from a gold box in the 9th year of King Talhae’s reign (65). “Gyerim” was even used as the name of Silla. Kim Al-Ji is said to have been the founder of the Gyeongju Kim Clan.
A spacious forest in the area is thickly wooded with old trees, which include zelkova trees; and a small brook.
In this forest are an antique monument house and a Sajeokbi (a monument that commemorates achievements), which were built in the 3rd year of King Sunjo’s reign in the modern Joseon period (1803).
It is said that the Wolseong Fortress was originally constructed in the southeastern part of Geumseong Fortress in the 22nd year of King Pasa’s reign (101). It is also said that Manwolseong Fortress was built north of Wolseong Fortress. Therefore, one can say that among these three early fortresses, Wolseong Fortress is in the utmost south.
The waters flow to the west from the east, and a broad expanse of fields is on the east. At the back of this fortress, one can see Imhaejeon Hall and Anapji Pond.
According to the Samguksagi (The Historical Record of the Three Kingdoms), “under the 21-year reign of Pak Hyokkose, the palace was built and named ‘Kumsong’, and there was Manwolsong (Fortress) in the newly-built northern Wolsong (Fortress)”. However, there is nothing left in today’s Wolsong (Fortress). There is only a thick forest and lawns in the empty yard. Although there is no way of knowing where Kumsong and Manwolsong were originally located, it is assumed that Wolsong and its neighborhood were where the palace of Silla’s kings was situated alongside the adjacent Anapji Pond across the road. The Wolsong (Fortress) was also called ‘Panwolsong’, on the assumption that it was a castle designed to enclose the neighboring palace with its half-moon shape. Following the collapse of Silla, its role in protecting the palace eventually decreased in importance, until it fully deteriorated. It was revealed that there was a moat, an artificial facility that allows water to flow under the gate and the wall of the castle. the Seokbinggo (ancient ice storage chamber), built in the era of the Choseon Dynasty, during the reign of King Yeongjo (1738), has survived. If no attention is given to the fact that it used to be the royal castle, it will easily be perceived as merely rising hills between the Gyeongju National Museum and the Anapji Pond and as lawns in the amusement park suitable for strolling and running. Cherry trees in the northern Wolsong and a rape field between Wolsong and Cheomsongdae create a spectacular scenery.
The entire district to which this fortress belongs was basically the home of a man named Hogong. After King Talhae ascended to the throne, he tricked Hogong to gain possession of the district, where he lived. According to hearsay, this place became a royal palace equipped with a fortress at the time of the next King, Pasa.
The thick forest situated between Cheomseongdae and Wolsong (Fortress) creates a deeper mystery around it. Could it be due to the legend of the golden box in which a golden shining box was found hanging from a tree and beneath it was a white chicken crowing. King Talhaewang heard the crowing of the chicken, and sent someone to the forest. There was a clever-looking boy in the golden box. The boy became cleverer and cleverer. He was named ‘Alji’, with the surname of Kim since he came from the golden box. King Talhaewang adopted the boy as his prince, but the boy did not succeed to the throne. Only the sixth generation of Kim Alji’s descendants became a king, with the Kim surname.
The ancient tomb inside the Gyerim (Forest) was known to be that of the 17th King of Silla, King Naemul (356~402). King Naemul is the second to have succeeded to the throne with the Kim surname. The king used the title ‘Maripgan’.
The strange structure of Cheomsongdae is an ancient astronomical observatory. It is probably the most well known of Korea's historic remains. The stone astronomical observatory was built during the reign of Queen Ssondeok in 634. It was used for observing the stars in order to forecast the weather. This stone structure is a beautiful combination of straight lines and curves, and was designated as National Treasure No.31 on December 20th, 1962.
It was built in a cylindrical shape with stones, 30cm in diameter. 362 stones were piled up to make 27 levels. Roughly 4.16m up from the bottom there is a square entrance and a space to hang a ladder under it.
The inside was filled with soil up to the 12th level, and the 19th, 20th, 25th, and 26th levels all have long rocks hanging on two areas, shaped as the Chinese letter '井' (jeong).
The Vernal Equinox, Autumnal Equinox, Winter Solstice, Summer Solstice and the 24 solar terms (also known as the astronomical solar year) were determined by the observation of stars. The pavilion stone is believed to have been used as a standard of deciding directions, north, south, east and west. The 362 stones used to build Cheomseongdae represented the 362 days in a lunar year.
The bottle-shaped tower was constructed on a square base. It is considered the oldest observatory in the world and one of the oldest man-made structures left in Korea.
Around the corner from Cheomsoengdae is Seokbinggo, an ancient ice storage chamber. Actually, you have to take a short hike along a walking path to get to it, but it's not difficult to find.
Anapji was originally constructed in 674 during the reign of Munmu, the 30th king of Silla. Munmu's family was blessed with success. His father, King Muyeol, unified the Korean peninsula in 668, engineering the defeat of the Baekje and Goguryeo kingdoms.
Today's Anapji is nothing as compared to its original form. During Munmu's time Anapji served as a resort garden overflowing with rare plants and animals. To impress the Tang dynasty Chinese envoys, the twelve famous peaks of China's Wushan mountain were miniaturized and placed around the lake. Here, the envoys could relax in an atmosphere inspired by the scenery of their homeland
All of the pavilions have vanished over the years, but some of the original foundation stones are still visible by the lakeside.
As said in the historical book of Samguk-sagi, during the 14th year of King Munmu’s reign (AD 661~681) in the Silla period (57 BC ~ AD 935), a large pond was dug and small mountains were built all within the palace walls. Additionally, beautiful flowers were planted and rare animals were brought in to create an exquisite garden environment. It is at Wolseung (fortress erected in AD 101 during the Silla period) that we can find Anapji Pond.
In 1974, an excavation revealed large spherical shapes (measuring 200 meters in diameter and 180 meters in height) indicating that 3 islands were located in the pond. They also managed to recover thousands of Silla artifacts that had fallen into the lake or were thrown in. Many of these were restored and relocated to the Gyeongju National Museum.
Anapji Pond can presently be viewed in its near original splendor, thanks to the restoration efforts
There’s a special stage in the area of Anapji where regular performances that can be enjoyed by all generations are held. This is to provide the citizens the opportunity for experiencing a variety of culture by promoting local culture and art. It’s also a way of recreating Gyeongju’s cultural brand image, and at the same time providing a space for art that encompasses the past, the present and the future.
Some of the performances include popular music concerts , rhythmical performances and special performances by foreign performers.
Imhaejeonji
In 674, King Munmu, who united the three kingdoms, made a big pond inside the palace with three small “mountains”, flowers, trees, birds and animals. He held grand parties here on special occasions such as during celebrations of national achievements or welcoming important guests. However, Samguksagi (The Historical Record of the Three Kingdoms) never mentions the imhaejeonji, referring only to ‘a pond inside the palace’. In the 1980s, a piece of earthenware called ‘Wolji’ (Moon Pond) was discovered, and its original name was assumed to be ‘Wolji’. The name ‘imhaejeonji’ is assumed to be named by poets and artists who did calligraphy and painting, observing that there were only ducks and wild geese flying around in the pond after having lost its original splendor following the collapse of the Silla Kingdom. The artifacts and relics found in this pond amounted to as many as 30,000 pieces, and such relics occupy one single entire exhibition hall of the Gyeongju National Museum. Moreover, the excavated remains clearly show the luxurious life led by the royal families of the Silla Kingdom. What is noteworthy about the imhaejeonji is the impossibility of seeing its entirety from a single view because of its indentations at the edges, although its scale is not very huge, measuring only at 200m from the east to west, 180m from the south to the north, and a total perimeter of 1000m. By making a small pond seem like a huge sea, the sophisticated creativity of people in the era of the Silla Kingdom stands out. Three islands and twelve peaks were made inside the pond based on the Oriental thought of the Spirit Being (Sinseon sasang). Equipment for receiving water and drainage was also skillfully and precisely designed. Tiling and splendid metal crafts that enhance the peculiar elegant beauty of the Silla Kingdom are worth a closer inspection. There are also wooden ships and various wooden subsidiary materials for construction, and a bathroom bearing inscriptions. The Anapji Pond was located in the garden of ‘Imhaejon Hall’ where parties were held, meaning ‘the palace overlooking the seas’. Located in front of the palace, the artificial man-made pond appeared as wide as the sea from any angle. In the pond’s southwest was the Crown Prince's Palace. According to records, it was completed during King Munmu’s 19th year (679), assuming that Imhaejon Hall was the canon of the Crown Prince's Palace. Judging from the remains retrieved from the Anapji Pond, it can be certainly assumed that efforts were made to widely inform the presence of the united Silla Kingdom by the then royal families.
As one of the detached palaces, of the Silla royal family’s main palace, this structure was used as the crown prince’s palace. Imhaejeon is historically the most important building on the property and historical books often refer to the surrounding area as a whole simply as Imhaejin. An excavation resulted in the discovery of several buildings , Hoerang (corridor area), Anapji Pond and five towers in the western portion of the site . The pavilion of Imhaejeon could seat over a-thousand people.While some sites have been restored others have been left in its natural form, only leaving the corner stones in sight.
The Hwangnyongsa Belt is a cluster of historic remains, centered around the ruins of the now-extinct Hwangnyongsa Temple and the Bunhwangsa Temple. Today nothing is left of the Hwangnyongsa except for the foundation stones.
The Hwangnyongsa Temple site is a must-visit for those who desire to feel “the full sense of emptiness”.
Since the introduction of Buddhism under the reign of King Pophung, kings during the era of the Silla Kingdom were devoted to Buddhism.
How was Buddhism first introduced to Silla? Before Silla unified the Korean peninsula in 668, when it overran the Baekje and Goguryeo kingdoms with Tang aid, Buddhism was primarily a state religion, little understood by the common people. From the start, the temple was conceived as a nationalist undertaking, intended to impress foreign visitors and protect the country through securing the power of the Buddha. Allegedly the nine stories of the famous nine-storey pagoda indicate Silla's destiny to conquer the nine nations of East Asia. Buddhism was still a young religion in Silla when the Hwangnyongsa was built, having first been adopted by Chin-hung's grandfather Pop-hung. The event is associated with the miraculous martyrdom of Yi Chadon.
Legend says that Yi Chadon (or Ichadon) was the king's Grand Secretary. The king desired the adoption of Buddhism, but his efforts were constantly frustrated by the nobles of Silla, who resisted the new religion. Yi Chadon shared the king's goal and was personally, very devout, so he suggested a plan to the king in a secret memorial. He asked the king to use his Royal Seal to order the adoption of Buddhism and let the nobles make their arguments. The king would then falsely announce that no such order had been given, demanding to know who had forged the Royal Seal. Yi Chadon promised that he would step forward and claim it was he. The nobles would demand that he be executed. Yi Chadon promised that during the execution, there would be a miracle, and all the court would believe.
The King was pleased with the plan and also touched by Yi Chadon's willingness to die for a just cause. He agreed to Yi Chadon's proposal and everything went according to plan. The king assembled Yi Chadon and the nobles for an audience and demanded who had "falsified" the royal seal. Yi Chadon stepped forward and "admitted" that it was he. The angry nobles, incensed at having Buddhism tricked upon them, demanded for his execution to which the king agreed.
Yi Chadon then turned to face them and swore an oath. "Though I shall die," he said, "my death will prove the truth of the faith." Then the sword fell and chopped off his head.
Immediately a miracle happened, milk gushed from the wound instead of blood, spouting hundreds of feet into the air. The sun darkened and the earth quaked. Flowers rained from heaven and the head flew hundreds of miles to Diamond Mountain (in what is now North Korea). The shocked nobles immediately repented and Buddhism became the state religion. Yi Chadon's corpse was given a proper burial on Diamond Mountain.
When King Chinhung was about to build a new royal palace, a yellow dragon timely appeared at the site. And because of the dragon’s appearance, a temple named ‘Hwangnyongsaji Temple’ was built there instead. It became the palace of the Buddha instead of the royal palace of a king.
Given the scale of the temple, King Chinhung failed to see its completion during his lifetime. The temple’s construction took up a total of 93 years and four kings, and was finally completed during the reign of Queen Sondok (632~647).
The temple was originally arranged in the "three Halls-one Pagoda" style which meant that the pagoda was in the center of the complex, flanked by three main halls on the left, right, and behind the central pagoda. The main hall was 155 feet long and 55 feet three wide. Ten pedestal stones were used at the front, and flat stones supported three images of the Buddha inside the temple
miniature reconstruction of what the pagoda at Hwangnygongsa Temple may have once looked like before it was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of Korea.
Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rens_photos/27056944/
The famous nine-storey pagoda, which was commissioned by Queen Seondeok after the main temple was finished, was the largest Korean pagoda ever built. It was reported to be 224feet tall and the body was made entirely of wood. Only its foundation stones remain today but they attest to the mammoth proportions of the original structure. The pagoda had a foundation area of 6,084 square feet, was supported by eight pillars on each side, and had sixty foundation stones
The Hwangnyongsa was designed to be a place where monks prayed for the welfare of the nation by asking for the divine protection of the Buddha and also as a means of impressing foreign dignitaries.
It was the largest temple in the era of the Silla Kingdom – its courtyard alone had a total area of about 24,000 pyeong. It had a bell that was four times as big as the Seongdeokdaewangsinjong (sacred bell of the Great King Seongdeok), which is the biggest of the still existing bells in Korea. There was also a painting of an old pine tree painted by Sol Geo that seemed so realistic it caused birds crashing into the wall.
Although the Silla Kingdom eventually perished, succeeded by the era of Goguryeo , the Hwangnyongsaji Temple flourished. However, it was razed to the ground during an invasion of the Mongolian army in Goguryeo King Gojong’s 25th year (1238). Although what remains in the present is a corner stone, this stone makes the Hwangryongsaji Temple look much more magnificent and spectacular. Who can argue that the pleasure from imagination is comparable to that of an actual sighting?
Bunhwangsa (Famous Emperor Temple) was built in 634 during the reign of Queen Seondeok. The Bunhwangsa Temple was once one of the most important temples in the history of Silla's Buddhism. It ranked among the four preeminent temples of the kingdom, a distinction it shared with the nearby Hwangnyongsa temple. Unlike Buddhist temples of today, it was not a place where the common people came to worship. Instead, it was a state-sponsored facility where monks supported by the state prayed constantly for the welfare of the kingdom.
It is believed that the interior was once hollow, but over time debris has completely filled the temple. A 1915 excavation into the interior uncovered a relic box lodged between the second and third stories, containing the remains of a cremated priest. It is common to entomb the remains of cremated priests, called sari, in pagodas such as these. Also found were gold and stone ornaments, coins, scissors, and a needle with a case. This rich lode certainly belonged to a woman of royalty, perhaps even Queen Seondeok herself.
This stone pagoda is the oldest of Silla’s remaining stone towers. It is an imitation brick pagoda by trimming Ansanam rocks into a brick shape so that they could be piled up. Considered as big as a stylobate or a tower, this is estimated to have been originally a seven-story or nine-story stone pagoda.
It has double-hinged-door-type gamsils on the four sides of the body stone on the first story of the pagoda, where Buddhist statues are enshrined, on both sides of which Inwangsang (guard) statues, which keep the teachings of Buddha, are sculpted in relief On the base platform at the four corners are stone lions guarding the pagoda. In the fields south of the temple are flagpole support pillars that also survived from the original temple.
Bunhwangsa is still an active temple today, though it is a fraction of its original size. There are a few tiny worship pavilions nearby.
The Sanseong Belt occupies the Myeonghwal Fortress, which is believed to have been built in the fifth century. The fortress shows Silla's advanced skills in architecture, which later influenced the Japanese.
Gyeongju is a round valley surrounded by mountains in all directions. Moreover, Mt. Myeonghwalsan corresponds to the eastern gateway of Gyeongju City. As there is a record that Japanese invaders attacked the Myeonghwal Castle in the fourth year (405) of King Silseong’s reign (Samguk Sagi), it is presumed that the castle had been built before that event. This mountain fortress was made using native rocks found along the girth of the top peak of Mt. Myeonghwal, and approximately 4.5km of stonework remains here. The Myeonghwalsanseong is one of the Gyeongju Historic Areas and is registered as a World Heritage. It was also used as a palace for 13 years until the tenth year (488) of the 21st King Soji from the eighteenth year (475) of the 20th King Jabi. In Queen Seondeok’s reign, Bi-Dam rose in rebellion, camped out in the Myeonghwalsanseong and fought a fierce battle with General Kim Yu-Shin. One day, when a big star dropped in Wolseong (ancient castle of Silla), Bi-Dam was pleased to see it, thinking that it was a sign of the Queen’s defeat. Then, it is said that General Kim Yu-Shin flew a burning kite the next day, saying ‘The star dropped yesterday went up to the sky again’, thereby stimulating the fighting spirits of his soldiers and defeating Bi-Dam and his followers.
So now we have covered all the districts of the Geongju Historic Areas. Was that helpful? See you again!
Special thanks and appreciation to the following:
Photos and articles © courtesy
Timothy M. Ciccone & Abraham C. Ahn
http://www.gyeongju.go.kr/english
http://www./eguide.gj.go.kr
http://english.tour2korea.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hwangnyongsa
I travelled a lot in Korea, but still haven't seen these beautiful places! Korea is really wonderful. Maybe even after 10 years i will think the same as now...
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